ToxicWS6

long story short ive had a low CR forged 347 in my car for the last few months, i get my turbo kit in and fuel system in about 2 weeks, planned on being done with car and getting SD tuned, well this week it spun a rod or main bearing (havnt gotten that far yet but not upper end at all) at this point with my money situation im probably going to just buy a $500 junkyard 5.3, put my whole top end on it (heads cam, push rods, studs etc) i plan on running this engine for awhile maybe leave it in if im happy with it, while i figure out what im doing with my current engine.

basically more or less i wanna know what yall think of this engine build and or would it all work together (piston to valve clearance. etc) as i havnt done much research on this yet but some and i kinda need my car back on the road soon, plan on grabbin the first decent $500-600 5.3 i can

-5.3L stock short block
-243 heads stock with .700 lift double valve springs
-7.400 comp cams pushrods
-ls7 lifters
-brute speed blower cam
-double roller timing chain
-high volume oil pump
-ARP 12 point head studs
-ls9 7 layer head gaskets
-E85 on twin pump hobbs switch ran

whats yalls thoughts on this and what might this be capable of? 6200rpms and around 500rwhp?

thanks!

CameronVic

iTrader: (5)

Are you asking if it can make 500whp NA?

mpatton

That's almost identical to my setup , can let u know soon how much it makes

silversweetZ

iTrader: (11)

Your only drawback will be the 243 heads but that should make 500 easy with a turbo/blower setup.

ToxicWS6

nah 500rwhp on boost, probably be at 350rwhp n/a if i was to guess, and ight cool! ill probably repost once i get it done tuned and dynoed!

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

You should be at 500RWHP

B(o)(o)sted98TA

iTrader: (3)

Might want to get some arp rod bolts also...

ToxicWS6

could i reuse the ones in my current engine?

CameronVic

iTrader: (5)

Ls1tech myth #137: you need to buy aftermarket rod bolts.

If you wanna waste your money, just give it to me so I can buy a cam from Martin. Don't bother with rod bolts, people touch 7,000 RPMs all the time with stock rod bolts. I've ripped wrist pins out and the rod bolts weren't stretched.

ToxicWS6

i heard u can warp the rods by uninstalling and installin new rods and u can spin rod bearings cause of it, my thought was to set rev limit to 6200 and make 500 ish rwhp

CameronVic

iTrader: (5)

I bought a short block with a broken rod. Threw a rod in from the motor I just blew up in there and didn't spin a bearing. That's ls1tech myth #142. I debunk ls1tech myths all the time.

b16gsr

iTrader: (5)

almost mimic of my build. i went with a cam from Martin and the KMJ studs. Pick up a LS3/4 oil pump and a stock LS2 chain and you will be fine.

Martin spec'd mine for 6500 redline, and my power goals are in the 650 range. Martin keeps telling me I am selling myself short.

ToxicWS6

have double roller chain, studs and blower cam all ready to go so maybe ill go for that lol

2000SS1979

iTrader: (16)

On that set-up there are guys all over on this forum making 600 - 700 RWHP. reliably. for a long time on a much more stock 5.3 than yours will be.

ToxicWS6

hmm ight cool, thanks guys!

ToxicWS6

sorry for thread revival but instead of making a new one i thought id ask, my WG came with 2 springs, a 8lb and a 12lb, what one would yall run?

65chev

With a new setup, start low with the 8lb. Most people use the lowest spring they can get and use a boost controller to add more boost above that springs rating. Ex: with an 8lb spring, you can add 4lbs of pressure to the back of the gate with a controller to get a total of 12lbs boost. You can never adjust to less boost than the spring rating though.