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5.3L set up for turbo good?

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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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Default 5.3L set up for turbo good?

long story short ive had a low CR forged 347 in my car for the last few months, i get my turbo kit in and fuel system in about 2 weeks, planned on being done with car and getting SD tuned, well this week it spun a rod or main bearing (havnt gotten that far yet but not upper end at all) at this point with my money situation im probably going to just buy a $500 junkyard 5.3, put my whole top end on it (heads cam, push rods, studs etc) i plan on running this engine for awhile maybe leave it in if im happy with it, while i figure out what im doing with my current engine.

basically more or less i wanna know what yall think of this engine build and or would it all work together (piston to valve clearance. etc) as i havnt done much research on this yet but some and i kinda need my car back on the road soon, plan on grabbin the first decent $500-600 5.3 i can

-5.3L stock short block
-243 heads stock with .700 lift double valve springs
-7.400 comp cams pushrods
-ls7 lifters
-brute speed blower cam
-double roller timing chain
-high volume oil pump
-ARP 12 point head studs
-ls9 7 layer head gaskets
-E85 on twin pump hobbs switch ran

whats yalls thoughts on this and what might this be capable of? 6200rpms and around 500rwhp?

thanks!
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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Are you asking if it can make 500whp NA?
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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That's almost identical to my setup , can let u know soon how much it makes
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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Your only drawback will be the 243 heads but that should make 500 easy with a turbo/blower setup.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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nah 500rwhp on boost, probably be at 350rwhp n/a if i was to guess, and ight cool! ill probably repost once i get it done tuned and dynoed!
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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You should be at 500RWHP
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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Might want to get some arp rod bolts also...
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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could i reuse the ones in my current engine?
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 05:06 PM
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Ls1tech myth #137: you need to buy aftermarket rod bolts.

If you wanna waste your money, just give it to me so I can buy a cam from Martin. Don't bother with rod bolts, people touch 7,000 RPMs all the time with stock rod bolts. I've ripped wrist pins out and the rod bolts weren't stretched.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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i heard u can warp the rods by uninstalling and installin new rods and u can spin rod bearings cause of it, my thought was to set rev limit to 6200 and make 500 ish rwhp
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 06:25 PM
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I bought a short block with a broken rod. Threw a rod in from the motor I just blew up in there and didn't spin a bearing. That's ls1tech myth #142. I debunk ls1tech myths all the time.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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almost mimic of my build. i went with a cam from Martin and the KMJ studs. Pick up a LS3/4 oil pump and a stock LS2 chain and you will be fine.

Martin spec'd mine for 6500 redline, and my power goals are in the 650 range. Martin keeps telling me I am selling myself short.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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have double roller chain, studs and blower cam all ready to go so maybe ill go for that lol
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 06:57 AM
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On that set-up there are guys all over on this forum making 600 - 700 RWHP. reliably. for a long time on a much more stock 5.3 than yours will be.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:10 PM
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hmm ight cool, thanks guys!
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 09:12 AM
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sorry for thread revival but instead of making a new one i thought id ask, my WG came with 2 springs, a 8lb and a 12lb, what one would yall run?
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 09:59 AM
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With a new setup, start low with the 8lb. Most people use the lowest spring they can get and use a boost controller to add more boost above that springs rating. Ex: with an 8lb spring, you can add 4lbs of pressure to the back of the gate with a controller to get a total of 12lbs boost. You can never adjust to less boost than the spring rating though.
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