Budget/eBay head studs
I'd rather pay salaries than welfare.
I wonder what the preload on the stud would be at 55 lbs. I was cautious about torquing to 80 lbs on an Al block, so I stopped short.
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I've had the opportunity over the past few years to tour the ARP facility. Without a doubt, the one thing they are super picky on is quality.
Around the production areas, you'll find quite a number of these inspection machines. These are to ensure whatever process they are applying, is being done properly. Depending on the station, as many as 1 in every 10 bolts is checked for consistency. For the pro teams, F1, etc, every part is checked at each step in the process. We're talking at least 30 different stages, depending on the bolt.
Another thing that is apparent is how clean the place is. Making bolts and nuts is a messy job. Oil, cut material, blast media, chemicals....with all this going on, they keep the work areas completely spotless. Again with the quality thing.
The QC area and the stress test area are pretty amazing. Watching them destroy hardware is pretty impressive when you know the material it was made from and what its officially rated at. Something else I've learned over these visits is the extreme importance of Ultra Torque. Consistent load every single time. Rather amazing stuff.
Couple of videos of the heat treating process included here too...
Bottom line for me is, after seeing every step of the process, and knowing all the REALLY cheap junk on the market and what their tests have revealed, I wouldn't use that crap for carb studs, much less something important! Its ARP or nothing for me. if its important enough to buy, its important to fasten it with the right hardware.
Making 6.0L Ford head studs.
Heat treating 6.0L Ford head studs.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
65 dollars vs 250+dollars like others have said, on a 80-200 dollar motor, no thanks
on a 4000 dollar motor, ill buy ARP's lol
Ribeye steak at Golden Corral.
Theres a reason why quality costs more and there is a difference between the two. I'll take Ruths Chris please. I'll cut costs on my cable tv package, not on my LS!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sold-ebay.html
Plenty of guys in the above thread running the "get what you pay for" studs that are deep into the 10's. Including one car making 928/926 to the wheels. How long will they last? Guess we'll see. Point is that this argument has been beaten to death. 10 pages in the thread above discussing the very same thing. Like I said... to each their own. Personally, I'm with the others... my cheap *** junk yard motor will get cheap *** studs... especially if the cheap *** studs have proven themselves in countless other builds. I think most of the guys that purchase them are in the same train of thought as me... "I realize they might be risky to use, but it's my choice. If it blows up because of a stud, well that's my own fault. If it runs 10's and does it for a full season without issue, you bet your *** I'll use them again."
Junkyard builds for the win!
Head Studs... do they hold the head down adequately?
. . . Yes / No (Check one)
ARP . Yes
ProCompYes
Side note... I wonder if Ruth's Chris gets their steaks from Wal-Mart... ???
I'd be madder if I snapped off an ARP stud by torquing it down. LOL.
Anyone have a chinese stud snap off while torquing it down? Just curious as to the failure rate.
Last edited by HRHohio; Jun 26, 2013 at 05:02 PM.







