1963 Ford Falcon 5.3 turbo build
09-04-2013, 04:37 PM
#21
We have exhaust!!!!!!! The hooker LS manifolds fit nice. The drivers side is still a little tight in a few spots, but a grinder will take care of that. I am waiting for my T4 flange to arrive and then I can start on the hot side. The engine bay is going to get very crowded with hot and cold pipes.
09-25-2013, 01:32 PM
#24
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Falcon is looking good, much tighter engine bay with the towers than what I have in the Galaxie.
09-26-2013, 11:37 AM
#27
On The Tree
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keep up the work! we have pretty similar chassis lol. on my 65 mustang , i tried notching my shock towers but it still wasnt enough to clear my manifolds. had to run an AJE front K member which cut into my funds quite a bit!
09-27-2013, 02:36 PM
#28
Keeping at it. Got the gas tank and rear end out today. Did some cleaning and will be ready to notch the frame soon for the big tires.
Did a quick test fit after I got the 8" rear out. My rims are on back order, so I am scouring the internet trying to find some in stock some where.
Did a quick test fit after I got the 8" rear out. My rims are on back order, so I am scouring the internet trying to find some in stock some where.
10-08-2013, 10:25 AM
#29
So I have been busy notching my frame to fit the big tires. I found a site with a good right up, so I am just copying his work except my welds aren't as nice looking.
I started by welding some 1" x 2" .120 wall rectangle tube to the back side of the frame rail.
Then I cut 1" from the front side of the frame. This will give me 14" of wheel tub to fit my 12.5" tire into. If the 315's end up rubbing I will switch to 295's next time.
I bought some summit wheel tub's and am just modifying them to fit. I have 1 side almost done and then I will do the other side.
While I have been doing this I have been watching for a 9" center section and finally got one on ebay. It is a nodular iron, detroit locker, 31 spline, 3.00:1 gears. I got it for $475.00 plus $60.00 shipping.
My rims are still back ordered, but hopefully the will not be when I finish up the wheel tubs.
I started by welding some 1" x 2" .120 wall rectangle tube to the back side of the frame rail.
Then I cut 1" from the front side of the frame. This will give me 14" of wheel tub to fit my 12.5" tire into. If the 315's end up rubbing I will switch to 295's next time.
I bought some summit wheel tub's and am just modifying them to fit. I have 1 side almost done and then I will do the other side.
While I have been doing this I have been watching for a 9" center section and finally got one on ebay. It is a nodular iron, detroit locker, 31 spline, 3.00:1 gears. I got it for $475.00 plus $60.00 shipping.
My rims are still back ordered, but hopefully the will not be when I finish up the wheel tubs.
10-21-2013, 08:47 PM
#30
Mostly finished up with the mini tub. I still need some seam sealer and weld up the ends on the frame notch.
And my wheels came off back order and arrived, so I got the tires mounted up. I should be able to measure for my rear end soon and get cutting on it.
And my wheels came off back order and arrived, so I got the tires mounted up. I should be able to measure for my rear end soon and get cutting on it.
10-25-2013, 07:02 PM
#31
Got the wheel tubs finished up enough to mock up my rims and tires to see how wide my rear end needs to be. I came up with 54". So I went ahead and started narrowing the rear end.
Making the first cut. I cut the housing to 44" and the cut the ends to 2.5" and will bevel them and weld them back on.
I need to clean the insides of the tubes and then I will weld them on tomorrow and have a 54" rear end when the axles and brakes are installed.
Making the first cut. I cut the housing to 44" and the cut the ends to 2.5" and will bevel them and weld them back on.
I need to clean the insides of the tubes and then I will weld them on tomorrow and have a 54" rear end when the axles and brakes are installed.
11-19-2013, 07:29 AM
#33
The rear end and moving the leaf springs were a lot more work than I thought. I finally have it back on the ground and am happy with the look. Now I just got to get back to the front to make sure I can make enough power to justify the big tires. 
07-16-2014, 06:32 AM
#35
On The Tree
I have a 1964 Falcon and was thinking about dropping the 4.8 with 4L60 or 4L65E. I also have a 5.3 and 4L65E. All of them with about 50,000 miles and got them cheap because a salvage yard down the street from my house was going out of business. I paid $650 each for complete pull with accessories, PCM and wire harness for the 4.8 and 5.3. Paid $150 each for the 4L60 and the 4L65E.
My plan was to put the 5.0 with T5 and keep the 1964 Falcon all Ford. However, I may be getting a 1963 Falcon and will drop the 5.0 in it.
Question.
Will the 4.8 fit in 64 Falcon without cutting the shock towers?
I know you had to cut them since you have and turbo and had to point the exhaust upward.
Thanks
Waid
My plan was to put the 5.0 with T5 and keep the 1964 Falcon all Ford. However, I may be getting a 1963 Falcon and will drop the 5.0 in it.
Question.
Will the 4.8 fit in 64 Falcon without cutting the shock towers?
I know you had to cut them since you have and turbo and had to point the exhaust upward.
Thanks
Waid
07-16-2014, 07:45 AM
#37
On The Tree
Which exhaust manifolds are you using with your turbo build?
I am interested in non-turbo. As far as I know the Cadillac CTS-V exhaust manifold is one of the tightest to the block so may be I might have to do very little cutting on the shock tower.
By the way, are you on TFFN.NET for FORDMUSCLEFORUMS.COM ?
I just found this at:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/falc...-question.html
I am interested in non-turbo. As far as I know the Cadillac CTS-V exhaust manifold is one of the tightest to the block so may be I might have to do very little cutting on the shock tower.
By the way, are you on TFFN.NET for FORDMUSCLEFORUMS.COM ?
I just found this at:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/falc...-question.html
Floor pans and a engine bay question
OK, this is going to be hard for an idiot like me to describe, but the engine bay in a 64 is both bigger, and the same size as a 63. As the shock towers are the same distance apart, they are the same width. The difference is in the lower portion of the shock tower, right about where the upper control arm bolts on. This is the narrowest point in the engine bay. In a 63 the center rib of the shock tower has a rounded contour, where the 64 is flattened. The flat shape is the same as in an early Mustang. The flattened center rib provides about 1/2" per side more clearance. On the d.s. this is where your header hits the s.t. This is why its easier to get headers for a 351w in a 64 than in a 63.
Waid OK, this is going to be hard for an idiot like me to describe, but the engine bay in a 64 is both bigger, and the same size as a 63. As the shock towers are the same distance apart, they are the same width. The difference is in the lower portion of the shock tower, right about where the upper control arm bolts on. This is the narrowest point in the engine bay. In a 63 the center rib of the shock tower has a rounded contour, where the 64 is flattened. The flat shape is the same as in an early Mustang. The flattened center rib provides about 1/2" per side more clearance. On the d.s. this is where your header hits the s.t. This is why its easier to get headers for a 351w in a 64 than in a 63.
Last edited by waid786; 07-16-2014 at 07:51 AM.
07-16-2014, 07:52 AM
#38
I am using the hooker LS manifolds for my 1963. I wanted to go down and forward, but there is no way to do it with stock shock towers, so I had to come up and out. I tried a set of truck manifolds but they were a little wide.
I browse TFFN, that is where I got the idea for notching the frame rails and doing 315's in the rear. Be careful they will burn your house down if you mention putting a non-ford motor in your falcon. Lol
I browse TFFN, that is where I got the idea for notching the frame rails and doing 315's in the rear. Be careful they will burn your house down if you mention putting a non-ford motor in your falcon. Lol
