Cooling issue D1 T/A
Cooling issue D1 T/A I have a 2000 trans am with a d1sc procharger. I have recently been having some issues keeping the car cool since i swapped to a 4l80. So I upgraded to the LT1 radiator and a spal puller fan. I swapped the 160 thermostat for a 180 and no dice. My problem is mainly on the freeway in the 100 degree houston heat. Stop and go seems fine.
Make sure the fan is "pulling not pushing"
Make sure your air splitter plastic flap thing a muh jig is on on the bottom.
Bleed the air out of the radiator using some sort of special tool. PM alchemist about it and he can point you in the right direction.
Add an additional spal fan, and make a shroud for the radiator.
Add straight water and use some additive. that usually helps 5-10*
Are you running a/c? alot of people say it spikes when that is on.
If you are running dual intercoolers instead of an FMIC then thats also an issue.
It takes a little time and effort to get her to stay cool. Don't get frustrated. Just keep trying till you get it working right. Good luck.
Make sure your air splitter plastic flap thing a muh jig is on on the bottom.
Bleed the air out of the radiator using some sort of special tool. PM alchemist about it and he can point you in the right direction.
Add an additional spal fan, and make a shroud for the radiator.
Add straight water and use some additive. that usually helps 5-10*
Are you running a/c? alot of people say it spikes when that is on.
If you are running dual intercoolers instead of an FMIC then thats also an issue.
It takes a little time and effort to get her to stay cool. Don't get frustrated. Just keep trying till you get it working right. Good luck.
The fan is pulling. I have a fmic, tru cool 40 trans cooler, and and ac condenser in front of my radiator. Ac is not currently hooked up. But will be if i can get temps under control. I have the air dam. Running just enough coolant to lubricate things rest water. What coolant additive should I try and tell me more about the bleeder. I just let the car run with the radiator cap off and heater on til the bubbles stopped
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
This tip is rarely mentioned in 'overheating' threads.
A dirty AC condenser restricts airflow to the radiator. Check it - it must be perfectly free of debris.
The AC condenser radiator fins are notorious for plugging with debris almost a third of the way up from the bottom especially if it has never been cleaned since it left the assembly line.
It order to get 100 percent airflow to the radiator, you must get 100 percent airflow thru the AC condenser because most of the air getting to the radiator passes thru the AC condenser first. Plug the AC condenser and you reduce not only the efficiency of the AC condenser but the radiator as well.
Obviously, you want to make sure the fins on the radiator are completely debris free as well.
So even though are you NOT currently using the AC - if the AC condenser is plugged, it's causing a restriction of airflow to your radiator.
Double-check the steam vent hose and the radiator overflow hose. Sometimes in the haste to button up the job the hoses get flipped.
A dirty AC condenser restricts airflow to the radiator. Check it - it must be perfectly free of debris.
The AC condenser radiator fins are notorious for plugging with debris almost a third of the way up from the bottom especially if it has never been cleaned since it left the assembly line.
It order to get 100 percent airflow to the radiator, you must get 100 percent airflow thru the AC condenser because most of the air getting to the radiator passes thru the AC condenser first. Plug the AC condenser and you reduce not only the efficiency of the AC condenser but the radiator as well.
Obviously, you want to make sure the fins on the radiator are completely debris free as well.
So even though are you NOT currently using the AC - if the AC condenser is plugged, it's causing a restriction of airflow to your radiator.
Double-check the steam vent hose and the radiator overflow hose. Sometimes in the haste to button up the job the hoses get flipped.
I agree with everything said above. The amount of airflow being pushed over the radiator at speed is far more than any fan could pull, so there has got to be some other issue going on. Fact is, from the factor it has the fans being turned off above a certain speed since the airflow being pushed by the air damn is pretty substantial.
I don't think it's the Procharger causing the issue, it's easy to check though, just pull the belt or leave open the bypass valve. Without it generating boost, it's not adding all that much load on the car cruising around, at least not enough to cause overheating.
When you say overheating, what temperatures are you seeing? 220 is ok in my book, at least for stop and go traffic with a/c on in the summer heat.
For reference, I rarely ever go above 200-205 degrees, and that's with a/c on in the summer heat. Stop and go isn't too bad for me since it's not driven in the city, just back roads.
I don't think it's the Procharger causing the issue, it's easy to check though, just pull the belt or leave open the bypass valve. Without it generating boost, it's not adding all that much load on the car cruising around, at least not enough to cause overheating.
When you say overheating, what temperatures are you seeing? 220 is ok in my book, at least for stop and go traffic with a/c on in the summer heat.
For reference, I rarely ever go above 200-205 degrees, and that's with a/c on in the summer heat. Stop and go isn't too bad for me since it's not driven in the city, just back roads.
