turbos causing white smoke?
I have a 98 incon TT and I was just driving normal on the street and white smoke started pouring out of my exaust. It looked like i blew a head gasket but no oil was on the ground and the engine didnt seem like anything was wrong. I was wondering if something with the turbos that could be causing this to happen? thanks
Originally Posted by mrbeam1
I have a 98 incon TT and I was just driving normal on the street and white smoke started pouring out of my exaust. It looked like i blew a head gasket but no oil was on the ground and the engine didnt seem like anything was wrong. I was wondering if something with the turbos that could be causing this to happen? thanks
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I have the same problem but I think mine is rings or a cracked sleeve, my motor was overboosted once. Plus mine smells like burning oil. When I take my oil cap off little puffs of smoke come out even at an idle. If you think its your turbos then it could possibly be oil pulled through the bearing seal and vaporising as it enters the exhaust. I guess getting a turbo rebuilt sucks but rebuilding two of them would suck even more. Hope it is just a head gasket!! good luck and let us know what you find out.
scavenge pump. While I am working on rebuilding this car, I sometimes forget to plug up the scavenge pump....I always realize it when the car starts billowing smoke like it is blown up.
I think the stock pump is easy to rebuild w/ a small Teflon washer that cost nothing. Incon should have fitted a manual pump from the beginning. Most people try to upgrade to a Weldon 9200 because I heard the stock pump might not be strong enough to do the job.
I was told you don’t need the oil canister’s either, and they hang to low. It read somewhere on the board they are supposed to drain the hot oil when you turn off the car, but I don’t think there’s enough oil to do anything? Also don’t tilt them forward thinking it will help drain them; the pickup is in the back of the cans so tilt them back slightly.
This is some more good advice I got……
Get an oil pump pressure sender that switches on (just the opposite of the sensor for an oil idiot light) with positive oil pressure...wire up to a new relay, and have your pump relayed off it. the result - pump only runs when oil pressure is present. otherwise its annoying as hell to have the scavenge pump running when the engine isn't and it drains the battery .
Ill sell you the used one for 150 +s&h If you want it cablebandit its 155
I was told you don’t need the oil canister’s either, and they hang to low. It read somewhere on the board they are supposed to drain the hot oil when you turn off the car, but I don’t think there’s enough oil to do anything? Also don’t tilt them forward thinking it will help drain them; the pickup is in the back of the cans so tilt them back slightly.
This is some more good advice I got……
Get an oil pump pressure sender that switches on (just the opposite of the sensor for an oil idiot light) with positive oil pressure...wire up to a new relay, and have your pump relayed off it. the result - pump only runs when oil pressure is present. otherwise its annoying as hell to have the scavenge pump running when the engine isn't and it drains the battery .
Ill sell you the used one for 150 +s&h If you want it cablebandit its 155
Only two things can fail in the tilton pump - check valves and diaphragm - both are made of viton not teflon. Each costs about $18.
The tilton was actually oversized it ran dry most of the time which did not help with the life. A pressure switch will help if your in the habit of leaving the key in the on position (I just unplug the relay during pcm programming) otherwise not much benefit. Pump is made for tilton by flojet its a 2600 series pump and costs $98 or $150-190 from tilton. Pump is designed waste water tanks in rv and it is not designed for continous use period.
Weldon 9200 pump is designed for continous use in a differential cooler setup. I have no oil catch cans on my setup, no problems. They were there so the oil pump would not run dry. You are actually moving a total (between the two turbos) of about 1 gallon/min, so you are moving quite a bit oil around.
I also have a tilton sitting in my garage, never seen oil use - has been torn apart a few times. Has seen lots water use.
Gary
The tilton was actually oversized it ran dry most of the time which did not help with the life. A pressure switch will help if your in the habit of leaving the key in the on position (I just unplug the relay during pcm programming) otherwise not much benefit. Pump is made for tilton by flojet its a 2600 series pump and costs $98 or $150-190 from tilton. Pump is designed waste water tanks in rv and it is not designed for continous use period.
Weldon 9200 pump is designed for continous use in a differential cooler setup. I have no oil catch cans on my setup, no problems. They were there so the oil pump would not run dry. You are actually moving a total (between the two turbos) of about 1 gallon/min, so you are moving quite a bit oil around.
I also have a tilton sitting in my garage, never seen oil use - has been torn apart a few times. Has seen lots water use.
Gary


