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spark plugs for boost?

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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 06:16 AM
  #21  
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BR6EF for low boost...


https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...reference.html

Last edited by SS2win; Sep 20, 2013 at 06:27 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #22  
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I would guess a 6 is fine for 7-8 lbs. But when you turn it up, as a ballpark I would recommend br7ef as a few have said on here for probably up to 15-18 lbs. They are non projected and still a resistor style.

If you step it up above 20 go to the B8EFS, those are non projected as well and are not resistor style.

This is what I have found to work well with E85.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 07:53 AM
  #23  
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Ive used BR7's right out of the box with no problems with 100 octane, 93 i also used the BR7's but switched to an 8 since pump burns so damn hot. Both i never had any issue with out of the box up to 18psi
Oh and not to mention CHEAP as hell
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #24  
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why are you guys swapping to iridium I don't understand that part?
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 02:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ayousef
why are you guys swapping to iridium I don't understand that part?
They don't foul as easy , its a more concentrated spark, good for high cylinder pressures...plus if you want a projected tip in a colder range then tr6 like a tr7 then you have to go Iridium, they don't make a tr7, its tr7IX or tr8IX
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:33 AM
  #26  
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Think that maybe my problem, got to get the right plug.
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #27  
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I like the TR6IX and TR7IX for applications where I'm not pushing it hard and I don't want to change plugs often because I am pretty lazy and work sounds like work. LOL! Otherwise give me a BR7EF as they still drive decent and you can actually read them as you start to lean on the combo. TR7IX in my daily TVS GXP, BR7EF in the GTO and Camaro although I've run B8EFS plugs in the both of those from time to time with no issues.
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 04:02 PM
  #28  
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Tr7 here not sure why guys hate changing plugs in a f-body I can have plugs in and out in 15 mins
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 06:06 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by silverz28camaro
They don't foul as easy , its a more concentrated spark, good for high cylinder pressures...plus if you want a projected tip in a colder range then tr6 like a tr7 then you have to go Iridium, they don't make a tr7, its tr7IX or tr8IX
interesting, im asking cause I use BR7EF on my 9.2:1 CR motor and 20psi of boost on pump gas on my 100% street car and I was wondering if there was an even better plug but I guess this is the best compromise.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 06:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ayousef
interesting, im asking cause I use BR7EF on my 9.2:1 CR motor and 20psi of boost on pump gas on my 100% street car and I was wondering if there was an even better plug but I guess this is the best compromise.
20 psi and pump go to a colder plug and 8 will be what you want. B8s
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 08:25 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Camaro9969
20 psi and pump go to a colder plug and 8 will be what you want. B8s
but my dynamic compression ratio is very low, I wonder what would be the benefit of going with a colder or hotter plug or sticking with what I have. With my combo I can run 19 degrees of timing at 11.3:1 AFR and 20.5psi of boost on straight 93 octane. Im judging my choice of spark plug based on my spark advance limitations.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 08:10 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ayousef
but my dynamic compression ratio is very low, I wonder what would be the benefit of going with a colder or hotter plug or sticking with what I have. With my combo I can run 19 degrees of timing at 11.3:1 AFR and 20.5psi of boost on straight 93 octane. Im judging my choice of spark plug based on my spark advance limitations.
Are you don't use meth, and run 93 oct, 19timing at WOTon 20psi?
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 08:50 PM
  #33  
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Ya that's nuts, one slightly bad tank or a long Summer pull and that thing might pop
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #34  
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its far from detonation threshold believe it or not, I haven't pushed spark advance and it wont knock, when my pump was heating and fuel pressure dropped the car went to 13:1 AFR and still didn't knock, and don't doubt the knock sensors I couldn't hear anything either, like I said my dynamic compression ratio is pretty low.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 04:48 PM
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Are you really in Dubai? The quality of the gasoline could be a lot better than what we have here in the US.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 08:25 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by SS2win
Are you really in Dubai? The quality of the gasoline could be a lot better than what we have here in the US.
it is better but man even this is pushing it, im trying to figure out the reason behind this other than my DCR, and will do some research on a few things.
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #37  
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Have you ever checked your plugs for detonation after a pull or where your timing mark is?
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:16 PM
  #38  
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Well Im not sure what plug I need, got BR7, at 20psi it starts sputtering on the way to 25psi. Who makes TR7? Anyone got a part#
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:35 AM
  #39  
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BR7EFs are typically what people called TR7. They don't actually make a TR7 unless you go for a TR7IX which is the iridium plug.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by MillsMotorvation
Are you don't use meth, and run 93 oct, 19timing at WOTon 20psi?
its not that crazy....he's actually way rich, and way low on timing..
he could easily bring fuel up into the mid 12's and bring up timing a few more degrees....and probably make a bunch more power...

boost doesnt need the huge reduction in timing like Nitrous does, and it doesnt need to be way rich....
all it is, is adding compression to your engine....you wouldnt change AFR on a High compression Naturally aspirated engine...you might pull a few degrees, but you wouldnt dog it way down in timing...


this is why people need to learn how to use a dyno, and how to read plugs...
the combo of the two can tell you what you can really do for spark and fuel.

get the right plugs in there and you can add a bunch more timing than if you use the wrong plug...

getting a Non Projected tip is the first step....
sticking with plain regular plugs...copper or Silver.. is another good step...keeping with plugs that are not made to create more heat than necessary
reading the plugs to see what the car really wants...
look at the fuel ring, look at the ceramic, look at the strap....
getting a plug that is the right heat range can only be found by reading plugs.
in many cases....#7 is still too hot of a plug....only way to know is to read the plugs

and many things will determine how hot the flame is in your cylinder and what amount of timing you really can get away with
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