F1 or Front mount single on a forged 347?
F1 or Front mount single on a forged 347? About to build my car, forged LS1 aluminum block, low compression 347. Going to go with some pretty nice internals for high hp.
First question, factory style head? Maybe a 317?
I've got someone to build me a kit for my car here locally, so fitment wont be an issue.
I've got a buddy here with a 408'' motor with an F1 on it and it made just shy of 700whp. Belt slips as usual, yet another buddy is trying to talk me into doing an F1 setup, but to really work a F1, you need a cog setup and I know theres not that much room in a F-body engine bay, plus, I've heard that really takes the car over the edge. But my knowledge is limited on that.
But a guy here locally has a turbo LS setup, 380'' motor with 88mm and it runs low 5's in the 1/8. Basically thats what I want, but in a more street friendly car. My car, hardtop 2000 SS cloth, etc. 3,250 without me in it (160lbs).
Need some input guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First question, factory style head? Maybe a 317?
I've got someone to build me a kit for my car here locally, so fitment wont be an issue.
I've got a buddy here with a 408'' motor with an F1 on it and it made just shy of 700whp. Belt slips as usual, yet another buddy is trying to talk me into doing an F1 setup, but to really work a F1, you need a cog setup and I know theres not that much room in a F-body engine bay, plus, I've heard that really takes the car over the edge. But my knowledge is limited on that.
But a guy here locally has a turbo LS setup, 380'' motor with 88mm and it runs low 5's in the 1/8. Basically thats what I want, but in a more street friendly car. My car, hardtop 2000 SS cloth, etc. 3,250 without me in it (160lbs).
Need some input guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You will come out ahead building a front mount setup if you got any fab skills. Best advantage is the ability to adjust boost levels so it hooks up on the street, then dial it back up at the track. The S400 turbos are all over the low 5's around here and not that expensive. Its the best way to go IMO.
A low 5 second street car is no joke and wont be a very comfortable street ride IMO. My car has dipped into the 5's and its really not as fun to drive and a pain the a$$ to get into and out of with the cage and the long doors as it use to be. Coil overs make the ride real stiff, swapping for slicks to street tires ect sucks. Even if you plan to run DR's if you want to go that fast you wont be doing it on the same radials you run on the street for long, too many heat cycles and the tires lose there grip. It takes a lot to get to low 5's take a look at martins real street build, minimum to run these times is a 8.50 cert and that's going away quick for 25.5. Bottom line is its getting very expensive to build a car to go that fast and have all the safety equipment. Personally I'm at the point that I don't really drive mine much as I have too much money wrapped up into it to have some idiot on the street run into it.
And you can forget about low 5's reliably with a T56, I ended up swapping to a TH400.
A low 5 second street car is no joke and wont be a very comfortable street ride IMO. My car has dipped into the 5's and its really not as fun to drive and a pain the a$$ to get into and out of with the cage and the long doors as it use to be. Coil overs make the ride real stiff, swapping for slicks to street tires ect sucks. Even if you plan to run DR's if you want to go that fast you wont be doing it on the same radials you run on the street for long, too many heat cycles and the tires lose there grip. It takes a lot to get to low 5's take a look at martins real street build, minimum to run these times is a 8.50 cert and that's going away quick for 25.5. Bottom line is its getting very expensive to build a car to go that fast and have all the safety equipment. Personally I'm at the point that I don't really drive mine much as I have too much money wrapped up into it to have some idiot on the street run into it.
And you can forget about low 5's reliably with a T56, I ended up swapping to a TH400.
You will come out ahead building a front mount setup if you got any fab skills. Best advantage is the ability to adjust boost levels so it hooks up on the street, then dial it back up at the track. The S400 turbos are all over the low 5's around here and not that expensive. Its the best way to go IMO.
A low 5 second street car is no joke and wont be a very comfortable street ride IMO. My car has dipped into the 5's and its really not as fun to drive and a pain the a$$ to get into and out of with the cage and the long doors as it use to be. Coil overs make the ride real stiff, swapping for slicks to street tires ect sucks. Even if you plan to run DR's if you want to go that fast you wont be doing it on the same radials you run on the street for long, too many heat cycles and the tires lose there grip. It takes a lot to get to low 5's take a look at martins real street build, minimum to run these times is a 8.50 cert and that's going away quick for 25.5. Bottom line is its getting very expensive to build a car to go that fast and have all the safety equipment. Personally I'm at the point that I don't really drive mine much as I have too much money wrapped up into it to have some idiot on the street run into it.
And you can forget about low 5's reliably with a T56, I ended up swapping to a TH400.
A low 5 second street car is no joke and wont be a very comfortable street ride IMO. My car has dipped into the 5's and its really not as fun to drive and a pain the a$$ to get into and out of with the cage and the long doors as it use to be. Coil overs make the ride real stiff, swapping for slicks to street tires ect sucks. Even if you plan to run DR's if you want to go that fast you wont be doing it on the same radials you run on the street for long, too many heat cycles and the tires lose there grip. It takes a lot to get to low 5's take a look at martins real street build, minimum to run these times is a 8.50 cert and that's going away quick for 25.5. Bottom line is its getting very expensive to build a car to go that fast and have all the safety equipment. Personally I'm at the point that I don't really drive mine much as I have too much money wrapped up into it to have some idiot on the street run into it.
And you can forget about low 5's reliably with a T56, I ended up swapping to a TH400.
Good info here man thanks.
I have a shop here in Jackson MS, Speed Productions that 4 of my very good friends own. He said he'd like the business to do the turbo kit. He's a very skilled welder, and tunes/works on the low 5 second car I spoke of earlier.
But I don't want a full drag car like his to run low 5's, not at all actually.. More, a comfortable car I can dip just into the 5's with some serious work, but make plenty of power to play on the hwy and such.
But I wont stay with the 6 speed I have. 4L80 I am thinking.
plenty of F1 guys on here. you dont have to run a cog setup. they make an aftermarket tensioner bracket for it that eliminates most if not all the belt slip issues. its less than the cog setups too.
the blower is much easier to get into the car......there is no fabrication required...... and technically if you wanted to you can still adjust the boost levels by putting a waste gate on it. most procharger guys just seem to want to make max power all the time. I see no reason to go slower. Turbo or blower will make the power to get into the 5's. The supporting mods is what will blow your budget out of the water. I personally plan on attempting 5.70's with my F1 street build.
the blower is much easier to get into the car......there is no fabrication required...... and technically if you wanted to you can still adjust the boost levels by putting a waste gate on it. most procharger guys just seem to want to make max power all the time. I see no reason to go slower. Turbo or blower will make the power to get into the 5's. The supporting mods is what will blow your budget out of the water. I personally plan on attempting 5.70's with my F1 street build.
plenty of F1 guys on here. you dont have to run a cog setup. they make an aftermarket tensioner bracket for it that eliminates most if not all the belt slip issues. its less than the cog setups too.
the blower is much easier to get into the car......there is no fabrication required...... and technically if you wanted to you can still adjust the boost levels by putting a waste gate on it. most procharger guys just seem to want to make max power all the time. I see no reason to go slower. Turbo or blower will make the power to get into the 5's. The supporting mods is what will blow your budget out of the water. I personally plan on attempting 5.70's with my F1 street build.
the blower is much easier to get into the car......there is no fabrication required...... and technically if you wanted to you can still adjust the boost levels by putting a waste gate on it. most procharger guys just seem to want to make max power all the time. I see no reason to go slower. Turbo or blower will make the power to get into the 5's. The supporting mods is what will blow your budget out of the water. I personally plan on attempting 5.70's with my F1 street build.
Thanks for the info man. I do appreciate it . You're still in the process of building your? I can't find much info, but what's price on a F1 F-body kit?
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Good thread here OP. Like others have said, both setups can get you into the 5's, but I have to agree that the turbo setup will be better if you plan on decreasing/increasing boost. It would be really nice to have a setup capable of running 5's in the 1/8th and then lower the boost and drive it back home. I think you'll be happy whatever route you go.
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Verdad Gallardo Good thread here OP. Like others have said, both setups can get you into the 5's, but I have to agree that the turbo setup will be better if you plan on decreasing/increasing boost. It would be really nice to have a setup capable of running 5's in the 1/8th and then lower the boost and drive it back home. I think you'll be happy whatever route you go.
Also, if a high hp car pops up and wants to make a hit on the hwy, I can crank it up, 700-1000whp ya know? Then cut it back down to 500-700hp for playing on some backroads from a dig and making it relatively safe/easy to handle.
Launching!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: Norwood,Ont canada
I've never owned a turbo car but loving the vortech ysi no belt slip issues here ! Lots of room and easy to work on. Procharger also has a new programable boost head unit out now not sure if they make a kit for a f body or how much power you can make with them.
How much boost are you running and what kind of power does it put down?
Launching!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: Norwood,Ont canada
On the break in tune the car made 900rw 796tq on 15 psi pump gas with meth heading back to the dyno soon more timing more boost. As for top mounting the ysi it's a modified A&A vet bracket
