Meth injection on my Daily?
Meth injection on my Daily? Would it be a wise choice to go ahead and run a meth kit on my 5.3? Im installing a rear mount GT45 turbo and plan to run around 15#s of boost. I dont have enough room for an intercooler...... the truck is a daily. What are some reasonably priced kits? Does it make a big difference? Im not trying to hurt the motor.
makes a big difference on my procharged ls1 . about 5-7 degrees worth of timing and the safety of cooling the top of the pistons .
I use my washer tank on my formula but it my car was a daily id like a 2.5-3 gallon tank just to be on the safe side and not run out , as if you beat on it and you use a fair amount .
I think it would be a smart idea. I run the sno performance kit .
I use my washer tank on my formula but it my car was a daily id like a 2.5-3 gallon tank just to be on the safe side and not run out , as if you beat on it and you use a fair amount .
I think it would be a smart idea. I run the sno performance kit .
I run meth on a couple non-ls based DD cars. I made my own systems with parts from the local farm supply store and mcmaster-carr.
I run a 3gal drag tank with non-detergent windshield washer concentrate (blue stuff 98% meth 2% dye) cut 50/50 with distilled water. Been using this style of kit for years on several different engines. Works Great!
I run a 3gal drag tank with non-detergent windshield washer concentrate (blue stuff 98% meth 2% dye) cut 50/50 with distilled water. Been using this style of kit for years on several different engines. Works Great!
Here's a web site that has some good info on DIY meth setups. I am going to make this when I do mine.
http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html
http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html
Filter/Regulator - Wix 33737
100% Duty Cylce Sprayer Pump (2.2gpm @ 70psi)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-NPT-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-Volt-DC-12VDC-N-C-RO-Air-Water-BBTF-/290723310425?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b075ab59
M5, M10 or M15 Full Cone Misting Nozzles from McMaster (GPH @ 100psi)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boost-Pressure-Switch-For-Turbo-Water-Injection-hobbs-/231079977189?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cd70a0e5&vxp=mtr
Plus misc fittings and tubing.
I buy my WWFC (actual product name) from a local manufacturer in 5gal pails. But they also sell it in 55gal drums which would make about 110 gal of final product. Works out to about $2.75-$3/gal for 48/52 mix meth to water.
Every spring, most of these items can be had on sale. I can build a kit with the exact parts I've listed for less than $200 all fittings and tubing incl.
For N/A Applications, I've had the best success with this controller. Pricey @ $150 but it works extremely well. I use this on my high compression N/A Race Car and it made 8% more HP.
One thing I also do is i drill and install two push-lock fittings with clear tubing into the plastic cell for a sight glass. Easier to tell when you need a refill!
Also, I use the vette filter and crank the pump just enough to run continuously. There is two schools of thought about this...
- the pump starting and stopping may have the ability to create an air pocket. So by running the pump constantly with a return regulator, you avoid this.
- the pump can get warm by convection from the electric motor. By running the pump constantly, the meth keeps the pump and thus the electric motor cooler
or..."that is all BS".
...I've run them both ways. For the DD that has a short run, this will be fine. For those who go on road trips, you might want to replace the filter with a basic pass-thru type.
In that case, i use a wix filter for a 3.3L caravan. has the same fittings and no regulator/return.
Also, I use the vette filter and crank the pump just enough to run continuously. There is two schools of thought about this...
- the pump starting and stopping may have the ability to create an air pocket. So by running the pump constantly with a return regulator, you avoid this.
- the pump can get warm by convection from the electric motor. By running the pump constantly, the meth keeps the pump and thus the electric motor cooler
or..."that is all BS".
...I've run them both ways. For the DD that has a short run, this will be fine. For those who go on road trips, you might want to replace the filter with a basic pass-thru type.
In that case, i use a wix filter for a 3.3L caravan. has the same fittings and no regulator/return.
Last edited by TTLS1GP; Oct 25, 2013 at 10:58 AM. Reason: Word Smithing and Clairity
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Meth injection, intercooler or not, on a pump gas car is a no brainer IMHO. I will never have another forced induction street car without it having Meth. I like the Snow stg2 kit and used many of them on mine and customers cars with zero issues. I could use the same timing and boost I used on C16 on 93 w/meth with zero knock or performance loss.
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Verdad Gallardo I really like the idea of having the 3gal fuel cell mounted in the bed instead of that small 2qt tank. Seems like itll runout quick. Would I run into any problems running the pump near the engine while the reservoir is mounted in the bed?
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 916
Likes: 5
From: Las Vegas, NV
I run the Snow stg2 kit on my DD Convertible and use the washer fluid tank with -35F fluid from the local truck stop. It's about $3.50 a gal and the reservoir holds about 2 gal I think. I always keep it topped off, check it after a night of fun. Lasts a long time, well depends on how you drive and how often you get into boost. lol
Devils own stuff is great, I've installed their kits on 6 cars now (3 of them mine). Had a problem with one of the old progressive controllers, and they replaced it. Great and fast customer service/shipping as well.
I honestly don't think you could put together a kit cheaper that works better. You need a pump that puts out some serious PSI to atomize the mixture well. IMO a 70psi pump doesn't cut it. Add 20lbs of boost through the manifold and now your only seeing 50psi of head pressure. The new 300psi pump is the way to go.
Nothing wrong with Devils pressure switches, I have used a few. You can mount them anywhere, just needs a boost source. For the price of the progressive controller with integrated MAP, I'd go that route. Progressive controllers make a night and day difference when using large nozzles.
I honestly don't think you could put together a kit cheaper that works better. You need a pump that puts out some serious PSI to atomize the mixture well. IMO a 70psi pump doesn't cut it. Add 20lbs of boost through the manifold and now your only seeing 50psi of head pressure. The new 300psi pump is the way to go.
Nothing wrong with Devils pressure switches, I have used a few. You can mount them anywhere, just needs a boost source. For the price of the progressive controller with integrated MAP, I'd go that route. Progressive controllers make a night and day difference when using large nozzles.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
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From: Statesville, NC
Progressive controller would be more tunable probably. I choose just to drown mine for safety not really caring if it hurts me a few hp having the afr so rich. Most guys would prefer a progressive control I would think.
I honestly don't think you could put together a kit cheaper that works better. You need a pump that puts out some serious PSI to atomize the mixture well. IMO a 70psi pump doesn't cut it. Add 20lbs of boost through the manifold and now your only seeing 50psi of head pressure. The new 300psi pump is the way to go.
No loss of head pressure this way.
The nozzles will produce much finer droplets at 300 psi than they will at 70. Also the finer the mixture the more easily it flashes and the better it works in general. Alky also does the majority of its work in the actual cylinder.
Low pressure pre turbo kits will get you this..
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 916
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From: Las Vegas, NV
i.e. 7psi being better start point than 2 psi.... etc...