Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Meth injection on my Daily?

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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 06:59 AM
  #21  
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So there wouldnt be a problem mounting everything in the bed of my truck? Having the hose run along the frame rail to the throttle body charge pipe?
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by HRHohio
Cool. Yeah.... Richer is safer lol! Just wasn't sure if there was a "preferred" ramp in psi with a progressive controller.

i.e. 7psi being better start point than 2 psi.... etc...
Would need a lot more information. As everyone's setup will be different. I know everyone wants one, but there is no blanket statement that will work for everyone.

Depends on: location of nozzles/Type of fluid used/nozzle size/motor size/RPM/Boost/compression/fuel used etc…


Originally Posted by Ron_Stoppable
So there wouldnt be a problem mounting everything in the bed of my truck? Having the hose run along the frame rail to the throttle body charge pipe?
Yes that’s very common. You need a check valve before the nozzle to keep the system primed. Most of the alky pumps have a check valve as well, but if they don't you need a check valve right after the pump as well.

Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 29, 2013 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
The turbo does a poor job of atomizing compared to the nozzle under high pressure. With pre-injection you don't want large droplets striking your impeller blades at high speeds. It will damage them, esp if your using a high water low alky mix.

The nozzles will produce much finer droplets at 300 psi than they will at 70. Also the finer the mixture the more easily it flashes and the better it works in general. Alky also does the majority of its work in the actual cylinder.

Low pressure pre turbo kits will get you this..

***Image removed from quote***
I am not going to disagree with you. I've heard these stories and impeller imbalances etc. I haven't seen it myself and when i started using my kit in 2003, everyone said those stories were BS. I just know a lot of users do it this way.

I also will not disagree that the 300psi pump is a greater option and may provide better atomization. @ $139 it isn't a bad deal either.

I will say, that I've used it since 2003 on one of my s/c engines and used many gal of fluid. Everyone has their own way of doing things.

@ Ron regarding placement:

What ^^^ said. Need to keep line free of air and stop back-draining.

Last edited by TTLS1GP; Oct 29, 2013 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Posting same information as above...
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 08:33 AM
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I hear you, hell I used 3 washer fluid motors in series “back in the day” and it worked… It just didn’t’ work as well as it could have. Its less of an issue with S/C and really large turbos because they spin slower and have larger/thicker blades. Most of the damaged blades (like the pic I posted) were on small turbo/high boost diesel applications where the guys have 30+gallon tanks full of water and run at 30+lbs of boost for hours on end. Damage like that won’t show up on a lite duty street/drag car for a long time. Like you say it may be years before damage is even seen.

Also depends on nozzle size and fluid type. Straight water is a lot heavier than meth and will do more damage if not atomized properly. There is a specific micron droplet size that you don’t want to be above. I think Aquamist wrote the article a few years back, I’ll look for it. 70psi through a 1gph nozzle would be fine. But if you were to use 2 15gph nozzles IMO it wouldn’t get the droplets small enough and would slowly do damage. Using it post turbo/SC it wouldn’t be able to get the mixture atomized properly to evenly enter the cylinders either. Bottom line… the smaller the droplets the more efficient the system will be. Buy the highest pressure pump you can afford.
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