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2009 CTS-V 427lsx TT 6266's

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Old 12-13-2013, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
The engine is running. It IS reading the crank sensor otherwise it wouldnt be running.

Or do you mean something different ?
That's what's weird. Getting an error code crank sensor. Can't do a relearn because can't see the rpm. LME swapped the reluctor from 24x to 58x. We counted the teeth and it's tdc, replaced the sensor etc. I'm lost at this point... But it does sound healthy.
Old 12-13-2013, 08:33 PM
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what is the black coating on the turbo cold side? Is that plasti-dip or something else?
Old 12-13-2013, 08:59 PM
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Lol..."Houston Stock". Wicked build....nice.
Old 12-14-2013, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ZL1Killa
what is the black coating on the turbo cold side? Is that plasti-dip or something else?
Haha. No all of the cold side, intake tube, intercooler tanks and turbo front cover is professionally done wrinkle black, hot side and turbo center section are done in black ceramic black.
Old 12-14-2013, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
That's what's weird. Getting an error code crank sensor. Can't do a relearn because can't see the rpm. LME swapped the reluctor from 24x to 58x. We counted the teeth and it's tdc, replaced the sensor etc. I'm lost at this point... But it does sound healthy.
To clarify.

Where are you not seeing rpm ?

When are you not seeing rpm ?

Are you getting a good clean crank signal ? ie check with an oscilloscope. 58X is very easy to see as it is a regular pattern. 24x is crap.

Is timing at the plug accurate and consistent ? Crank trigger is GOD as far as timing goes.

What is the exact error code ?
Old 12-16-2013, 12:20 PM
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Where are you not seeing rpm? I saw rpm on the first start up in the car but was not logging. It lasted a few secs. Can't see it now in car or in EFIlive.

When are you not seeing rpm? On startup or when its running

Are you getting a good clean crank signal ? ie check with an oscilloscope. 58X is very easy to see as it is a regular pattern. 24x is crap. That I don't know we have to check it with the oscillosope.

Is timing at the plug accurate and consistent ? Crank trigger is GOD as far as timing goes. Have not checked that yet but will today.

What is the exact error code? I will get the correct code.

Only thing that was done was that we took the crank to LME to have them swap the 24X for a 58X because that is what the V's are. 4X gear was used in the front. Trying to exh all options before having to pull the engine out. We have checked to make sure its getting 5v and all that is good. No reason it should not be getting a crank signal besides the reclutor wheel and that was the only thing changed.

Car starts and runs but a miss higher in the rpms and reading no rpm.
Old 12-16-2013, 04:13 PM
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Is the crank sensor the same for the 58x and 24x cars ?

The rev counter on the dash couldnt be deemed reliable or accurate enough.

But viewing on EFI Live or similar should be deemed 100% accurate. If you are not seeing stable rpm here, then there is a major problem.

That could be sensor, wiring, although I would say far less likely the wheel itself.

I would check that first it is the correct sensor, check wiring to the sensor to ensure you have the correct supply and ground, and also with a scope to ensure you have a good clean trigger.

But very weird that the engine actually runs. That would imply the ecu is seeing a sensible crank trigger pattern.. that wouldnt make sense then that the rpm isnt displayed on the software.

Sure the software version is correct etc ? Maybe some oddity there ?
Old 12-16-2013, 05:49 PM
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Wellllllll I think I found the issue. I pulled the crank sensor to find wear on it. I didn't think anything of it but I knew the new one was good. Top is the first one and the 2nd is the replacement and you can clearly see it's hitting the reclutor wheel as it ground into it. I guess that it explains why I had RPM and it slowly went away.....

Sooooo has people had issues with reluctor wheels in lsx blocks or did LME cut the ring to big?

What are my options here? Not sure if you could shim this or not...


Old 12-16-2013, 05:55 PM
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It wouldnt be that unusual to see damage like that. It usually takes a lot before it affects the sensor though

I'm talking generically here, across many vehicle marques, not LS specific.

It wouldnt be a big deal to source a new sensor though, and maybe shim the new one out a few thou if you were concerned.

or even just try shimming either of the existing sensors out and check with a scope. On a 58x with a hall sensor, you should see a good clean square wave and be able to clearly see all teeth including the gap.
Old 12-16-2013, 07:16 PM
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Shimmed the sensor and still not working. Getting a oscilloscope in tomorrow and a new sensor.

Just weird the car starts up and runs...
Old 12-17-2013, 06:36 AM
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Very weird indeed. I wouldn't load the engine up until you have it resolved.

Stick a timing light onto it to both verify timing and rpm it sees
Old 12-17-2013, 11:31 AM
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Can you scan cam sensor counts? Are you sure it has a 4x cam gear?
Old 12-17-2013, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by INTMD8
Can you scan cam sensor counts? Are you sure it has a 4x cam gear?
Pretty sure. Everything is off my old long block. I have the scope so I'm going to shim the new sensor and see if that works and test the signal.
Old 12-17-2013, 04:43 PM
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If it's a 2 channel scope, record both crank and cam, then you can see if it's a 4x or 1x
Old 12-17-2013, 08:21 PM
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Well issue solved.

New crank sensor 2 .5mm shims. Car starts and runs no miss or anything and above all I have RPM!!!!

Old 12-18-2013, 01:47 AM
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Good result. Was it an OEM trigger wheel they fitted or one they had cut ? Would be interesting to see the tooth depth if it isn't OEM.
Plus as you say, may even be slightly too large diameter. Although damage like that on the sensor is fairly common on a lot of cars.
Old 12-18-2013, 02:33 AM
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Cool

Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
Well issue solved.

New crank sensor 2 .5mm shims. Car starts and runs no miss or anything and above all I have RPM!!!!

http://youtu.be/7D3GG5ZE3gc
SOUNDS 1054056465406540654654651031861 times better !


Also,Good on Stevieturbo for helping you troubleshoot the issue also.

FYI, for future reference always check of have the shops check sensor clearance stock before modifying. This way you have something to reference whenever you change parts to something other than OEM specs.
Old 12-18-2013, 03:26 PM
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They cut there own wheels. Thanks for trying to help and sharing info!

Now waiting on a new ati damper to come in and replace the squeaky belt. Happy it was something small!
Old 12-18-2013, 05:03 PM
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It is fortunate you had the sense not to push on. **** knows where the timing etc was actually at by the time it got to the plugs etc. And equally, you could never have been sure fueling was sensible either.

It could easily have led to damage !

Still bloody weird that it ran in the first place. Normally OEM ecu's are very fussy about that sort of thing from an emissions standpoint.
If anything is wrong at all, it will cut fuel so as not to damage the catalytic converter, or plain and simple just shut the engine down completely.
Old 12-29-2013, 10:45 AM
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Have you guys finished tuning it yet ?


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