2009 CTS-V 427lsx TT 6266's
#41
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's what's weird. Getting an error code crank sensor. Can't do a relearn because can't see the rpm. LME swapped the reluctor from 24x to 58x. We counted the teeth and it's tdc, replaced the sensor etc. I'm lost at this point... But it does sound healthy.
#45
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where are you not seeing rpm ?
When are you not seeing rpm ?
Are you getting a good clean crank signal ? ie check with an oscilloscope. 58X is very easy to see as it is a regular pattern. 24x is crap.
Is timing at the plug accurate and consistent ? Crank trigger is GOD as far as timing goes.
What is the exact error code ?
#46
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where are you not seeing rpm? I saw rpm on the first start up in the car but was not logging. It lasted a few secs. Can't see it now in car or in EFIlive.
When are you not seeing rpm? On startup or when its running
Are you getting a good clean crank signal ? ie check with an oscilloscope. 58X is very easy to see as it is a regular pattern. 24x is crap. That I don't know we have to check it with the oscillosope.
Is timing at the plug accurate and consistent ? Crank trigger is GOD as far as timing goes. Have not checked that yet but will today.
What is the exact error code? I will get the correct code.
Only thing that was done was that we took the crank to LME to have them swap the 24X for a 58X because that is what the V's are. 4X gear was used in the front. Trying to exh all options before having to pull the engine out. We have checked to make sure its getting 5v and all that is good. No reason it should not be getting a crank signal besides the reclutor wheel and that was the only thing changed.
Car starts and runs but a miss higher in the rpms and reading no rpm.
When are you not seeing rpm? On startup or when its running
Are you getting a good clean crank signal ? ie check with an oscilloscope. 58X is very easy to see as it is a regular pattern. 24x is crap. That I don't know we have to check it with the oscillosope.
Is timing at the plug accurate and consistent ? Crank trigger is GOD as far as timing goes. Have not checked that yet but will today.
What is the exact error code? I will get the correct code.
Only thing that was done was that we took the crank to LME to have them swap the 24X for a 58X because that is what the V's are. 4X gear was used in the front. Trying to exh all options before having to pull the engine out. We have checked to make sure its getting 5v and all that is good. No reason it should not be getting a crank signal besides the reclutor wheel and that was the only thing changed.
Car starts and runs but a miss higher in the rpms and reading no rpm.
#47
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is the crank sensor the same for the 58x and 24x cars ?
The rev counter on the dash couldnt be deemed reliable or accurate enough.
But viewing on EFI Live or similar should be deemed 100% accurate. If you are not seeing stable rpm here, then there is a major problem.
That could be sensor, wiring, although I would say far less likely the wheel itself.
I would check that first it is the correct sensor, check wiring to the sensor to ensure you have the correct supply and ground, and also with a scope to ensure you have a good clean trigger.
But very weird that the engine actually runs. That would imply the ecu is seeing a sensible crank trigger pattern.. that wouldnt make sense then that the rpm isnt displayed on the software.
Sure the software version is correct etc ? Maybe some oddity there ?
The rev counter on the dash couldnt be deemed reliable or accurate enough.
But viewing on EFI Live or similar should be deemed 100% accurate. If you are not seeing stable rpm here, then there is a major problem.
That could be sensor, wiring, although I would say far less likely the wheel itself.
I would check that first it is the correct sensor, check wiring to the sensor to ensure you have the correct supply and ground, and also with a scope to ensure you have a good clean trigger.
But very weird that the engine actually runs. That would imply the ecu is seeing a sensible crank trigger pattern.. that wouldnt make sense then that the rpm isnt displayed on the software.
Sure the software version is correct etc ? Maybe some oddity there ?
#48
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wellllllll I think I found the issue. I pulled the crank sensor to find wear on it. I didn't think anything of it but I knew the new one was good. Top is the first one and the 2nd is the replacement and you can clearly see it's hitting the reclutor wheel as it ground into it. I guess that it explains why I had RPM and it slowly went away.....
Sooooo has people had issues with reluctor wheels in lsx blocks or did LME cut the ring to big?
What are my options here? Not sure if you could shim this or not...
Sooooo has people had issues with reluctor wheels in lsx blocks or did LME cut the ring to big?
What are my options here? Not sure if you could shim this or not...
![](http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx233/1INSANEGTO/9F013B3D-8DD5-4716-ACDB-9D545281FF7D_zpsk4askdvt.jpg)
#49
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It wouldnt be that unusual to see damage like that. It usually takes a lot before it affects the sensor though
I'm talking generically here, across many vehicle marques, not LS specific.
It wouldnt be a big deal to source a new sensor though, and maybe shim the new one out a few thou if you were concerned.
or even just try shimming either of the existing sensors out and check with a scope. On a 58x with a hall sensor, you should see a good clean square wave and be able to clearly see all teeth including the gap.
I'm talking generically here, across many vehicle marques, not LS specific.
It wouldnt be a big deal to source a new sensor though, and maybe shim the new one out a few thou if you were concerned.
or even just try shimming either of the existing sensors out and check with a scope. On a 58x with a hall sensor, you should see a good clean square wave and be able to clearly see all teeth including the gap.
#56
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good result. Was it an OEM trigger wheel they fitted or one they had cut ? Would be interesting to see the tooth depth if it isn't OEM.
Plus as you say, may even be slightly too large diameter. Although damage like that on the sensor is fairly common on a lot of cars.
Plus as you say, may even be slightly too large diameter. Although damage like that on the sensor is fairly common on a lot of cars.
#57
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Cool](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon6.gif)
Well issue solved.
New crank sensor 2 .5mm shims. Car starts and runs no miss or anything and above all I have RPM!!!!
http://youtu.be/7D3GG5ZE3gc
New crank sensor 2 .5mm shims. Car starts and runs no miss or anything and above all I have RPM!!!!
http://youtu.be/7D3GG5ZE3gc
Also,Good on Stevieturbo for helping you troubleshoot the issue also.
FYI, for future reference always check of have the shops check sensor clearance stock before modifying. This way you have something to reference whenever you change parts to something other than OEM specs.
#59
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It is fortunate you had the sense not to push on. **** knows where the timing etc was actually at by the time it got to the plugs etc. And equally, you could never have been sure fueling was sensible either.
It could easily have led to damage !
Still bloody weird that it ran in the first place. Normally OEM ecu's are very fussy about that sort of thing from an emissions standpoint.
If anything is wrong at all, it will cut fuel so as not to damage the catalytic converter, or plain and simple just shut the engine down completely.
It could easily have led to damage !
Still bloody weird that it ran in the first place. Normally OEM ecu's are very fussy about that sort of thing from an emissions standpoint.
If anything is wrong at all, it will cut fuel so as not to damage the catalytic converter, or plain and simple just shut the engine down completely.