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Which is the better AR...68 or .81?

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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 07:55 PM
  #21  
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Keep in mind everyone. I tried Precision 62/62s that were a grand each and didn't work worth ****. So kind of tough to go the name brand route again.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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On3 will sell you replacement housings for a fair price. Buy larger turbine housings. If they don't help, sell them and get most of your money back, and then explore other options.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:54 PM
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I hope that twin on3 70's will support 1000 flywheel hp that's what I plan to try and get I'm running forged iron 383 with twin 70mm.s I went for the 0.68 housings also.

Good luck OP be interested to find out how this progresses
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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A 5.99 in a 3720lb car is easily a 1000 flywheel hp.

Anyways, I am thinking about just trying a set of their 76's. Again, I am all about trying something different. The exhaust housing is the same as the 70's just the compressor is bigger. They will support more power and worth a shot. Already have my current 70's sold for $350 and that would eat up half the cost. I would think the 76's would allow me to get better use of my Custom Tick Cam that peaks around 7k also. I was already able to build more boost off the line then I was able to use so even if it's a little harder to build boost I think it will more than make up for it once the car starts moving.

So what do you all think of that idea? I realize that I can make more power possibly using a name brand turbo that costs a hell of a lot more. However, I am so happy with how these On3's have worked that I want to do everything I can to reach my 5.70 goal using their product. I love the idea of an 8 sec 1/4 mile car on a very budget friendly build.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 03:15 PM
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going from a .68 ar to a .81 ar is just going to move the power band of rpm. The 68 will come on sooner and peak sooner.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DBRODS
going from a .68 ar to a .81 ar is just going to move the power band of rpm. The 68 will come on sooner and peak sooner.
Right but it would have worked better with my cam using the .81. At least I think it would. However, I think I am just going to try a set of their 76's in Twins because they would support more power and are not too big of a change from a 70 but maybe enough to make some more power. We'll see. I am leaning this way though.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked69
A 5.99 in a 3720lb car is easily a 1000 flywheel hp.

Anyways, I am thinking about just trying a set of their 76's. Again, I am all about trying something different. The exhaust housing is the same as the 70's just the compressor is bigger. They will support more power and worth a shot. Already have my current 70's sold for $350 and that would eat up half the cost. I would think the 76's would allow me to get better use of my Custom Tick Cam that peaks around 7k also. I was already able to build more boost off the line then I was able to use so even if it's a little harder to build boost I think it will more than make up for it once the car starts moving.

So what do you all think of that idea? I realize that I can make more power possibly using a name brand turbo that costs a hell of a lot more. However, I am so happy with how these On3's have worked that I want to do everything I can to reach my 5.70 goal using their product. I love the idea of an 8 sec 1/4 mile car on a very budget friendly build.
God people kill me

You honestly think the 76s are going to make more power?? They have the same turbine don't they?

So spend another 500 bucks on turbos that have an even worse ratio of compressor to turbine.... that makes sense

The beauty of twins is it is so easy to get turbine capacity . It blows my mind people don't take advantage of that and instead will slap on some knock offs of old school ptrims on and then wonder why it is choking

Last edited by rotary1307cc; Dec 4, 2013 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
God people kill me

You honestly think the 76s are going to make more power?? You don't get it do you
I said they would SUPPORT more power. I never claimed to be an expert and said that I was willing to try something different and wanted to keep this budget friendly.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Wicked69
So what do you all think of that idea?
It will make less power as you will have more backpressure at any given boost level. You are overtaxing an already undersized turbine.

Doesn't matter if the compressor wheel can move 100lbs/min if the turbine can't drive it efficiently.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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I think 76's will just raise your back pressure more. You will just be relying more heavily on those tiny turbines to turn a larger compressor.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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BTW, even if the housing swap picked up any power at all it would be at high rpm and probably 20-30 at best.

If you don't want to buy more expensive turbos (which would be the easiest way to a massive amount of power and efficiency) I would put the money in getting your compression up a point and a half before spending anything on turbine housings.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by INTMD8
It will make less power as you will have more backpressure at any given boost level. You are overtaxing an already undersized turbine.

Doesn't matter if the compressor wheel can move 100lbs/min if the turbine can't drive it efficiently.
bump...
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 06:51 PM
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Okay, I understand what you are saying to a point. However, damn I spent $2k on a set of Precisions that ran like **** and had to be rebuilt twice and still never worked for ****. The best the car ran with Precision 62/62's was 6.60. With no other changes at that time but the turbo swap the car ran 6.30 with the ON3's. Now I am supposed to go out and try another name brand turbo?

Like I said I want to try this with the ON3's so I am asking what my options are with this brand of turbo? Not everyone can spend big money on a turbo set up. I have less than $3500 in my set up and it has run 5's in a daily driver, heavy *** car. I want to keep it budget and am happy with how they have performed.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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You have less than 3500 in a forged bottom setup with a volley ecu ?

The s366 is isn't even in the same league as the 6262. You could be into a pair of 366s for 1200 dollars

So 900$ for a pair of turbos you won't ever change again or break. If you break one I will personally buy you a new one.

I have one on my compound diesel setup and it is as good of deal for a quality turbo as the s475s are

The 6262 was a 62/72 turbine. And whatever housing you had. The s366 I would run is the big 73/80 with the t4 .91
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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Where can you get S366's for $1200? I just shopped around best I found was $730 a piece.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by norotor7
Where can you get S366's for $1200? I just shopped around best I found was $730 a piece.
I got mine off of fleabay for 1k for the pair. I asked for the best price they could do on a pair and they came back with that offer. There may be some vendors on here that will do it for that. I got off the shelf 177275 s366 turbos.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
You have less than 3500 in a forged bottom setup with a volley ecu ?

The s366 is isn't even in the same league as the 6262. You could be into a pair of 366s for 1200 dollars

So 900$ for a pair of turbos you won't ever change again or break. If you break one I will personally buy you a new one.

I have one on my compound diesel setup and it is as good of deal for a quality turbo as the s475s are

The 6262 was a 62/72 turbine. And whatever housing you had. The s366 I would run is the big 73/80 with the t4 .91
First, I am not trying to argue with you. I am still learning this stuff and admit that I don't completely understand how it all works. I understand enough that I have got my set up to work. I appreciate your input and obviously you have a lot of knowledge with this stuff.

As far as the $3500 with a Holley. It worked out for me. When I bought my 6.0 I got it complete originally for $500 and I got everything. Wiring harness, pcm, starter, alternator, coil packs. Complete and running. When I decided to go with forged rods and pistons, stock crank. I got the block done for $400 with it bored .030. I then sold my wiring harness that I did with some help for $600, sold the pcm with my tune for $300, and my HPTuners for $400 with 2 credits. So I got the Holley unit for just over $200 out of pocket. I may have a little more than that if I wrote it all down but I did everything pretty damn cheap. Now I have gone through 3 engines though. lol Everything I bought, wastegates, bov, etc.. I got it all used. All my hotside and cold side I just bought exhaust pipe and did it.

Getting a set of s366's for a grand sounds pretty bad *** and is close to the ON3 price I just wanted to see what the On3's could do.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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Is there any other turbine options that fit those ON3's, or just housing options?
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dirty_old_chevy
Is there any other turbine options that fit those ON3's, or just housing options?
I am not sure but will check
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:29 PM
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Hey I am not trying to argue man, just trying to help you out.

If you went to the Borgs you would thank me. I'd put money on it
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