Procharger Installed! Few Q's
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From: Sunny San Diego
Procharger Installed! Few Q's Got it installed, took 13 hours with another pair of hands. Thanks Josh! 
Also installed 38 lb injectors. Couple of Q's
How loud is the whine, mine is really quiet. Not like my friends Vortech.
What is a good starting place for timing. Right now I have it set @ 15. And O2's are about .940 No KR @ WOT.
Also installed 38 lb injectors. Couple of Q's
How loud is the whine, mine is really quiet. Not like my friends Vortech.
What is a good starting place for timing. Right now I have it set @ 15. And O2's are about .940 No KR @ WOT.
Last edited by Ed LS1 Vert; May 9, 2004 at 09:53 PM.
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From: Marysville, WA
Congrats on your install! 
I am at the point of finally having tuning done. I would like to chime in as well as learn from your thread.
I would answer it by saying depends on how much boost you are running, your supercharger may be turning faster at idle using a smaller pulley (quieter). At low boost mine sounds like gears are clashing. At higher boost it whistles louder at idle (turning faster). I have the ps1c.
At this point with my tuning I am at 17 deg, 4 lbs of boost, o2's .970 no KR at WOT. I have tried 6lbs of boost (change of the pulley) 17 deg of timing, .950 no KR at WOT.
Also, my LTtrims were maxed out at 25. The first order of business was to correct this and now I have neg lt trims at 1/2 throttle like they should be.
Three questions for you...
1) Are you showing KR below 2500 rpms? I do and it gets worse with the boost being increased.
2) Did you have LT trim problems and what do yours read?
3) Should you add timing for increased performance? Move up to 18 or 19 deg if KR is not present? This is what I was told by friends (not the person doing my tuning). So you are saying less is better 15 or 16 deg.
I am learning from my tuning experience and am not an expert, hope you do not mind me asking questions & sharing thoughts on your thread. I really want to learn more about tuning.
I am at the point of finally having tuning done. I would like to chime in as well as learn from your thread.
How loud is the whine, mine is really quiet. Not like my friends Vortech.
What is a good starting place for timing. Right now I have it set @ 15. And O2's are about .940 No KR @ WOT.
Also, my LTtrims were maxed out at 25. The first order of business was to correct this and now I have neg lt trims at 1/2 throttle like they should be.
Three questions for you...
1) Are you showing KR below 2500 rpms? I do and it gets worse with the boost being increased.
2) Did you have LT trim problems and what do yours read?
3) Should you add timing for increased performance? Move up to 18 or 19 deg if KR is not present? This is what I was told by friends (not the person doing my tuning). So you are saying less is better 15 or 16 deg.
I am learning from my tuning experience and am not an expert, hope you do not mind me asking questions & sharing thoughts on your thread.
I really want to learn more about tuning. Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Sunny San Diego
I am running th P-1SC-1 with the 5# pulley. When I first started the engine, I couldn't hear the blower. It did get a bit louder after driving it a bit. But I could only hear it if I closed the Borla.
1. I am an A4, so once I floor it, the converter will take me over 3000 rpms. I might get up to 2* of KR, but will drop to zero. Guessing my exhaust is hitting. I do have some part throttle KR. Either cause I am bogging in gear or too much part-throttle timing. It's still stock.
2. My LT''s were +12 when I installed the 38 lbs injectors. I have been slowing scaling the IFR smaller and right now they are around zero. I'll drive some more and let them settle down
3. I started low because I am still running 11:1 heads. But from what I understand with NA, more timing = more power. With no KR of course. FI I think should be the same.
No problems on the questions, I am still learning too.
1. I am an A4, so once I floor it, the converter will take me over 3000 rpms. I might get up to 2* of KR, but will drop to zero. Guessing my exhaust is hitting. I do have some part throttle KR. Either cause I am bogging in gear or too much part-throttle timing. It's still stock.
2. My LT''s were +12 when I installed the 38 lbs injectors. I have been slowing scaling the IFR smaller and right now they are around zero. I'll drive some more and let them settle down
3. I started low because I am still running 11:1 heads. But from what I understand with NA, more timing = more power. With no KR of course. FI I think should be the same.
No problems on the questions, I am still learning too.
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From: Marysville, WA
Thanks!
Are you using a FMU? Did the 38# injectors come with the kit? What type of fuel pump are you using and did it come with the kit?
The reason why I am asking is I show my car mostly, now after 2 yrs of having the ATI I am trying to try and get a little more HP and want to go to the track once or twice.
I had the FMU but took it off (had problems with it), I can explain if you have one. I have the stock injectors and the ATI inline pro pump that came with the kit.
I am probably going to bug you a couple more times, should I pm you? Again thanks for your time.
Are you using a FMU? Did the 38# injectors come with the kit? What type of fuel pump are you using and did it come with the kit?
The reason why I am asking is I show my car mostly, now after 2 yrs of having the ATI I am trying to try and get a little more HP and want to go to the track once or twice.
I had the FMU but took it off (had problems with it), I can explain if you have one. I have the stock injectors and the ATI inline pro pump that came with the kit.
I am probably going to bug you a couple more times, should I pm you? Again thanks for your time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Sunny San Diego
This was the tuner kit. I picked up the 38 lb injectors. No FMU 
Right now I am running the stock pump. It's held up to 480 rwhp. But I plan on upgrading it soon.
You can post here, someones else might chime in.
Right now I am running the stock pump. It's held up to 480 rwhp. But I plan on upgrading it soon.
You can post here, someones else might chime in.
Congrats ED !
I was looking to go the same route. I want the D1Sc though. Do you mind letting me know where you got yours from. I'm in Cali too so I'm looking for a good deal
Once again congrats, I wouldn't floor it until proper tuning is done
I was looking to go the same route. I want the D1Sc though. Do you mind letting me know where you got yours from. I'm in Cali too so I'm looking for a good deal
Once again congrats, I wouldn't floor it until proper tuning is done
Thread Starter
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From: Sunny San Diego
Thanks The only reason I didn't go with the D1 is the P1 is CARB legal.
I got it on sale @ http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/
I tune myself with EDIT. It gets up a moves pretty good. Right now it is safely tuned. No KR # WOT. I'll get it on the dyno and fine tune it. Gauges are going tomorrow so I can see how much boost I am running.
The only reason I didn't go with the D1 is the P1 is CARB legal. I got it on sale @ http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/
I tune myself with EDIT. It gets up a moves pretty good. Right now it is safely tuned. No KR # WOT. I'll get it on the dyno and fine tune it. Gauges are going tomorrow so I can see how much boost I am running.
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ed get a better fuel pump, JUST IN CASE,
I wouldn't run more than 4 lbs of boost with those heads, i'm sure you plan on changing those out.
go get her tuned, you will love boost!
I wouldn't run more than 4 lbs of boost with those heads, i'm sure you plan on changing those out.
go get her tuned, you will love boost!
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Just slowly creep up on the timing, I am running 3 degrees less then stock above 4800rpm/.6 Gms/Cyl @ 7-8psi. You can pick up an in-car wideband fairly cheap nowadays, the stock O2s are absolutely useless for tuning, when my car is cold the stock O2s read 1v at WOT and if its really hot they read 890 or so - the whole time the wideband will read exactly the same (11:5:1 or so). I dont even put my car on the dyno anymore and I can dyno whenever I want (have one at the shop), with EFIlive/LS1edit and a wideband its easy enough to get things very close.
Make sure and use a good oil separator and a good check valve in the PCV, your compression is high so be carefull and dont get greedy
Bob at EPP is a good guy, thats where I bought my P1 from..
Make sure and use a good oil separator and a good check valve in the PCV, your compression is high so be carefull and dont get greedy
Bob at EPP is a good guy, thats where I bought my P1 from..
Thread Starter
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From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
ed get a better fuel pump, JUST IN CASE,
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
I wouldn't run more than 4 lbs of boost with those heads, i'm sure you plan on changing those out.
go get her tuned, you will love boost!
go get her tuned, you will love boost!
I am talking with Jay right now about his 6.0L heads.
Since, I am getting no KR. I should be ok for a while. And my EFI is always running.
Yes boost is fun! Not quite as a hit as N20. But knowing it is there all the time.
Thread Starter
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From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by kp
Just slowly creep up on the timing, I am running 3 degrees less then stock above 4800rpm/.6 Gms/Cyl @ 7-8psi. You can pick up an in-car wideband fairly cheap nowadays, the stock O2s are absolutely useless for tuning, when my car is cold the stock O2s read 1v at WOT and if its really hot they read 890 or so - the whole time the wideband will read exactly the same (11:5:1 or so). I dont even put my car on the dyno anymore and I can dyno whenever I want (have one at the shop), with EFIlive/LS1edit and a wideband its easy enough to get things very close.
Originally Posted by kp
Make sure and use a good oil separator and a good check valve in the PCV, your compression is high so be carefull and dont get greedy
Bob at EPP is a good guy, thats where I bought my P1 from..
Thanks for the hints. I was wondering if I can run full timing at lower RPM's. I started @ 3600 /.56 to be safe.
Oil separator and check valve. No one told me about them.
Isn't the PCV valve a check valve in itself?
At low rpm there is little boost so there is no reason to pull a lot of timing..
The pcv valve will not hold boost, thats not what its made to do. I use a viton tipped check valve from mcmaster carr (PN 7775K52 ~10.00). I am also using an AMW (sponsor on the right) catch can that almost 100% eliminated oil in my intake from the PCV. Oil in intake + boost + high compression = real bad
The pcv valve will not hold boost, thats not what its made to do. I use a viton tipped check valve from mcmaster carr (PN 7775K52 ~10.00). I am also using an AMW (sponsor on the right) catch can that almost 100% eliminated oil in my intake from the PCV. Oil in intake + boost + high compression = real bad
Congrats on the successful install Ed !!!
Can't wait to check it out !
My 30th was dropped off this morning at Don Lee's for ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts, new oil dipstick (creased from being bent around), getting the stock exhaust put back on for a little while , new valvesprings/valvetrain inspection, and a couple of other little things.
It's running fine but a little extra insurance and a "yearly physical" is a good safety measure. 14k miles on the valvesprings that are currently in there.
It should be back in a week or so, we'll have to get together so I can check out the new FI setup !
Rob (Bad30th)
Can't wait to check it out !
My 30th was dropped off this morning at Don Lee's for ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts, new oil dipstick (creased from being bent around), getting the stock exhaust put back on for a little while
, new valvesprings/valvetrain inspection, and a couple of other little things.It's running fine but a little extra insurance and a "yearly physical" is a good safety measure. 14k miles on the valvesprings that are currently in there.
It should be back in a week or so, we'll have to get together so I can check out the new FI setup !
Rob (Bad30th)
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
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From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by kp
At low rpm there is little boost so there is no reason to pull a lot of timing..
The pcv valve will not hold boost, thats not what its made to do. I use a viton tipped check valve from mcmaster carr (PN 7775K52 ~10.00). I am also using an AMW (sponsor on the right) catch can that almost 100% eliminated oil in my intake from the PCV. Oil in intake + boost + high compression = real bad
The pcv valve will not hold boost, thats not what its made to do. I use a viton tipped check valve from mcmaster carr (PN 7775K52 ~10.00). I am also using an AMW (sponsor on the right) catch can that almost 100% eliminated oil in my intake from the PCV. Oil in intake + boost + high compression = real bad
I'll check into the check valve. Is this something I can get at a local part store??
That is probably why I am only getting 2# of boost. Going to re-tighten the belt.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
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From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by Bad30th
Congrats on the successful install Ed !!!
Can't wait to check it out !
My 30th was dropped off this morning at Don Lee's for ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts, new oil dipstick (creased from being bent around), getting the stock exhaust put back on for a little while , new valvesprings/valvetrain inspection, and a couple of other little things.
It's running fine but a little extra insurance and a "yearly physical" is a good safety measure. 14k miles on the valvesprings that are currently in there.
It should be back in a week or so, we'll have to get together so I can check out the new FI setup !
Rob (Bad30th)
Can't wait to check it out !
My 30th was dropped off this morning at Don Lee's for ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts, new oil dipstick (creased from being bent around), getting the stock exhaust put back on for a little while
, new valvesprings/valvetrain inspection, and a couple of other little things.It's running fine but a little extra insurance and a "yearly physical" is a good safety measure. 14k miles on the valvesprings that are currently in there.
It should be back in a week or so, we'll have to get together so I can check out the new FI setup !
Rob (Bad30th)
Give me a call when you get your car back.
Originally Posted by Ed LS1 Vert
Thanks, I didn't think there was a reason. I will slowly start bumping it up.
I'll check into the check valve. Is this something I can get at a local part store??
That is probably why I am only getting 2# of boost. Going to re-tighten the belt.
I'll check into the check valve. Is this something I can get at a local part store??
That is probably why I am only getting 2# of boost. Going to re-tighten the belt.
Thread Starter
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From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by kp
Just order it from mcmaster carr, it will be to your door in a few days. I havent found anything like it anywhere else..
Tighten the belt and still only see 2# of boost. How much could I be losing through the PCV valve??
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From: Marysville, WA
Originally Posted by Ed LS1 Vert
Will do thanks.
Tighten the belt and still only see 2# of boost. How much could I be losing through the PCV valve??
Tighten the belt and still only see 2# of boost. How much could I be losing through the PCV valve??
Here are the boost levels I show with the MMS Crank pulley...
410=4#
360=6#
340=8#
Give or take a little. No slipping with the MMS Crank pulley.
Do not tighten the belt to much or you will chew up the belt.
Everyone thought I was slipping because of my boost being low but the gauge was accurate and there was no slipping. Shows = 4#
Dyno & racing = 6# or 8# of boost and I will swap tunes.
Thread Starter
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From: Sunny San Diego
Thanks for the response. I told the Vendor my set-up and that I wanted 5#. They should have sent me the 3.40 pulley.
True, my exhaust probably did drop the boost some. I'll get it on a dyno for the true test. But the boost starts @ 1.5 -2 when I floor it and stays there all the way to 6300 rpms
I am going to loosen the belt some, seeing it didn't help. I do have it pretty tight. I can only move it about a 1/4 in.
How tight should it be?
Guess I will order some extra pulleys and belts
True, my exhaust probably did drop the boost some. I'll get it on a dyno for the true test. But the boost starts @ 1.5 -2 when I floor it and stays there all the way to 6300 rpms
I am going to loosen the belt some, seeing it didn't help. I do have it pretty tight. I can only move it about a 1/4 in.
How tight should it be?
Guess I will order some extra pulleys and belts
Last edited by Ed LS1 Vert; May 10, 2004 at 09:37 PM.
