408 CI IN 99 percent complete! pics inside
. Before I head to the dyno though I'm going to a have a custom bracket support made to solve the SC movement issue (I hope). Right now a WOT blast looks like it would result in the same fate Forcefed's did. I think I have an idea
that may be the answer besides buying a steel bracket. Anyways here's a few pics. The first ones are out of the car a couple weeks ago....I've been saving them
. The rest are installed plus a pic of the cog and BOV set-up.Mark
Kyle
Thanks, I have somemore pics I'll share shortly. Todd Brandon (Reckless) helped me with the shortblock along with a local race shop who did all the machine work and balancing. I did all the rest in the busted knuckle garage!
SPECS
408 CI IN Iron Block (6.0 Liter over .030) about 9.1 CR
Eagle forged crank (4.00 stroke)
Eagle H-beam Rods
Diamond Pistons (-26 cc)
Factory heads reworked to Stage 2 (2.02/1.60) and unshrouded
Comp Cam (224/230 580/591)
ATI D1SC w/cog set-up
SMC Alcohol Injection
NOS dry set-up (only to spray the IC's now)
4:10's out back (need to drop that lower though)
dyno results to come within a couple weeks
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I have to drive the TA down to Texas this weekend and will be gone the 15th through the 19th. Let me know what you want to schedule. Explain in more detail....see my sig for results on a 6-rib set-up at 12PSI! I know small twins are a little more restrictive as opposed to a larger single multiple core but I don't think they will be a huge hinderance. We'll see.
I have to drive the TA down to Texas this weekend and will be gone the 15th through the 19th. Let me know what you want to schedule.We will see how the setup does...
We will see how the setup does...
The movement extends all the way thru the alternator. By this I mean the two all thread rods have to much play in them (threads=smaller dia than holes in brackets, etc) This allows the alternator to move slightly. Since the SC sits out farther, it's more noticable because the movement is more magnified. The goal=tighten the tolerance on the two mounting points that tie to the block. We are going to make a "beefer" 1 piece spacer assy on the bottom. It will be round stock about an 1.125" dia (thats all the size allowed by the SC belt) that's threaded on one end (10x1.5) has a small hex cut into it for tightening and a threaded hole on the other end for the bracket bolt. Other than that it will be SOLID STEEL! Same will happen up top with smaller dimensions. After that the bolt thru the idler into the alternator is more stable, and maybe make the 3rd leg of the alternator bracket (on the side of the block) out of steel.
This may be a start to the something, there is one other option I'm looking at.....solid motor mounts
. Then you can use the open hole on the drivers side of the SC and tie it to the near by frame
with a Hiem joint or solid steel bracket. That would definitely stop the flexing.I could be wrong (but I hope not) stopping the flexing/movement should allow the rpms to be cranked without belt issues provided the tension is right
. SD needs a tensioner for the cog I'm not sure if I took any direct pictures of it, but it looks like a stock standoff from the bracket side, it attaches from the blower to a mount behind the alternator off of the block...


