LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Built right.....there's nothing stronger. Steve at RED has done many.......they are the ultimate in strength. There's no way to make a stronger block.

What modded block can be stronger than a (properly) sleeved iron block.....?

Phil's block......was it aluminum? No aluminum block, filled or not, is stronger than a resleeved iron block. Not even close.

What's "dry deck" ?

Who knows what went wrong with Phil's......if its built with a fault in it or you push it past its ability.....then anything will break.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I don't see why everyone is afraid of the extra weight of the iron block......my car has zero feel difference in all aspects of driving, there is no difference.

Maybe if you're going for some kind of 1/4 mile record, then yes save the weight.

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DEFYANT

Yes, Phils block was an Iron LSX block, he has an RHS now. A dry deck is where there is no water at the deck of the block, its filled and welded. The LSX block has Ductile Iron sleeves which are the strongest, it had issues in other areas.

wrp

At the end of the day I went with an LSx, a 4.0 stroke crank, and 4.125 bore. I am boosting nearly 30 psi. My LQ9 held around 1000 hp for several years at 23 psi. The junk crank I had, Eagle, is what really gave way when we went to Twin Turbos and upped the boost. I would say though, shaving 130 lbs off the front end would be significant in a car you intend to drag race. We took the 4.0 Liter Whipple off and replaced it with the twin turbos and saved roughly 80 lbs and that was so significant we have had to re engineer the suspension setup. Not being argumentative with you, just an opinion.

On the pricing, looking at the website it appears the 4.125 bore Superdeck at 3500 is still cheaper than an LSx punched to 4.125 and if they have them available on the shelf it would save some pretty valuable time. Running right at 3.4 k for the LSx block, the machine work is going to be well over 1000. Kind of wish I had looked closer at this before I pulled the trigger on the LSx. One little gotcha there is the ARP studs and blots, that is a 500-600 expense that if you forgo, you just started pissing into the wind. They are included with the Superdeck. IMHO the quality of your rotating assembly is the bottom line on the quality of your build. just my .02

trans2000am

iTrader: (49)

go iron lose the extra weight that the block comes with somewhere else

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I'm trying to figure out how you have an opinion on the matter not knowing what a dry deck is........

What could be stronger than an iron block.........there are some pretty mean billet aluminum pieces out there.