1 BADAS Z (5.3 BW480 billet 280z build)
#61
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I don't see the benefit to forward facing manifolds. Without major alteration they never fit correctly and look awful most of the time IMO. Why not run the manifolds the way they were meant to be run? Run your cross over behind and under the car, then direct your piping to the turbo. With everyone using 2 and 2.25" piping these days the piping fits nicely tucked up aft of the flexplate. Then your left with a factory looking turbo setup. Plugs, wires, coils all fit great etc... Also in smaller engine bays this leaves more room for radiators, intercooler, and fans.
May also look in to the stamped steel 98 fbody manifolds. They are a 1/2 of the weight as the cast manifolds and still very stout SS.
May also look in to the stamped steel 98 fbody manifolds. They are a 1/2 of the weight as the cast manifolds and still very stout SS.
#62
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I don't see the benefit to forward facing manifolds. Without major alteration they never fit correctly and look awful most of the time IMO. Why not run the manifolds the way they were meant to be run? Run your cross over behind and under the car, then direct your piping to the turbo. With everyone using 2 and 2.25" piping these days the piping fits nicely tucked up aft of the flexplate. Then your left with a factory looking turbo setup. Plugs, wires, coils all fit great etc... Also in smaller engine bays this leaves more room for radiators, intercooler, and fans.
May also look in to the stamped steel 98 fbody manifolds. They are a 1/2 of the weight as the cast manifolds and still very stout SS.
May also look in to the stamped steel 98 fbody manifolds. They are a 1/2 of the weight as the cast manifolds and still very stout SS.
#63
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I will be fabing up the turbo kit soon, I will take a look at the rear facing manifolds and see what it looks like, I do agree, being 2 and 2 1/4 can make 1000 plus hp it really simplifies the pipe routing. I remember back in 1998 when I first started building turbo cars we used 3.5 for cross over, made it a nighmare to fit inside a tight engine compartment. Times have changed and knowledge is power
FWIW 2.5” with a 2.75 diameter flex joint double heat wrapped fits with room to spare.
#64
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#65
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The other side is a great example of “do as I say not as I do”. I call it a WG priority T merge. Aka… Crap! I had very little room. The S400 series turbos are HUGE.
Not sure about track updates. Still snowing here. I'm pretty close to firing the new setup. Waiting on racetronix back ordered injectors at the moment.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 02-10-2014 at 12:55 PM.
#67
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Got a little more done on the car, put in cage and undercoated the
Tubs. Seam sealed the tubs and spread it out with paintbrush and thinner.
It normally flows out real flat and thin and looks seamless however, the shop
Was so cold that the putty was hard to flow out.
Saturday is chassis certification and I will try to paint cage and put interior back
In tomorrow an take it for cert, I have a few concerns, the swing out bars are some what straight across, thi was done to keep my armrest and window crank
Working with door closed. The rule book only states that the side bar needs to be blank size and it need to pass driver between shoulder and elbow. We will see if they pass it, and the other concern would be I didn't put the main hoop diagonal bars but I also didn't weld the hoop to the floor plates. I cut out and added frame tubes for the cage to weld to.
Swing out bar
Cage is pretty well hidden for stuffing a elephants dick in a lions *** lol
Pretty tight to shove all that pipe in this tight lil space
Tubs. Seam sealed the tubs and spread it out with paintbrush and thinner.
It normally flows out real flat and thin and looks seamless however, the shop
Was so cold that the putty was hard to flow out.
Saturday is chassis certification and I will try to paint cage and put interior back
In tomorrow an take it for cert, I have a few concerns, the swing out bars are some what straight across, thi was done to keep my armrest and window crank
Working with door closed. The rule book only states that the side bar needs to be blank size and it need to pass driver between shoulder and elbow. We will see if they pass it, and the other concern would be I didn't put the main hoop diagonal bars but I also didn't weld the hoop to the floor plates. I cut out and added frame tubes for the cage to weld to.
Swing out bar
Cage is pretty well hidden for stuffing a elephants dick in a lions *** lol
Pretty tight to shove all that pipe in this tight lil space
#71
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Yea that door bar was a concern. But, nhra rules state bar must pass between shoulder and elbow. It has no other specs on that bar. I called nhra tech and they said only spec on the bar is elbow and shoulder. So I guess I'm good. It really worked out well because I can keep my arm rest and row windows up and down with bar on. I will make a bracket in the hatch to strap the side bars to when not at track. So getting in an out will be less restrictive.
Going cert chassis Saturday
Going cert chassis Saturday
#72
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Yea that door bar was a concern. But, nhra rules state bar must pass between shoulder and elbow. It has no other specs on that bar. I called nhra tech and they said only spec on the bar is elbow and shoulder. So I guess I'm good. It really worked out well because I can keep my arm rest and row windows up and down with bar on. I will make a bracket in the hatch to strap the side bars to when not at track. So getting in an out will be less restrictive.
Going cert chassis Saturday
Going cert chassis Saturday
#75
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Thanks. It's been a lot I work but considering it came this for since starting the project in January, I think it's coming along good. Not building a show car so I have been mig welding a lot if the stuff where I normally would tig. But just building a budget street car
#77
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I like the cowl and look of thi front end. I think it's just the 1970 240 z with no bumper or grill. I need to investigate, I fine it looks way meaner than the front end I currently have. It looks more 1970 muscle
My car is a 1978. So I may have to order some 240 z front end parts to make it look like that.
The cowl looks pretty good also. My cowl is a little too short
My car is a 1978. So I may have to order some 240 z front end parts to make it look like that.
The cowl looks pretty good also. My cowl is a little too short
#79
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#80
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Bam!!!!! 8.50 cert, that's probably 2 seconds faster than I Will need
Lol. Everything went well, nhra tech said everything looks good and had no concerns with cage.
Wooooohooooooo. Hopefully I can fab turbo kit this week and be making some
Shack down passes in 2 weeks or so. Hoping to run low 9's / high 8s with this stock 5.3 and 7875 precision. We will see.
Lol. Everything went well, nhra tech said everything looks good and had no concerns with cage.
Wooooohooooooo. Hopefully I can fab turbo kit this week and be making some
Shack down passes in 2 weeks or so. Hoping to run low 9's / high 8s with this stock 5.3 and 7875 precision. We will see.