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John Deer Hy gard Trans Fluid?

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Old 01-29-2014, 09:42 AM
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LOL, prob 500-600+ degrees testing with twin 88s with 111mm turbine wheels and a little 427. It is tuff to make 25psi on the line with a big tire car hahahaha! ProTorque helped us solve that problem and we even had a tighter converter down track to boot! Now we never get it over 300 degrees!
Old 01-29-2014, 09:47 AM
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18lbs, th400 with an older eBay "redneck" nitrous 3500 stall, 3.23 gear. Went 10.3 @ 128 with %34 slip. The std hygard dropped flash stall speed from 3500 down to about 3100, definitely cruised better, but not much on top. You can't expect it fix a converter that is that inneffcient on the top. Getting a ptc this winter.
Old 01-29-2014, 09:47 AM
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JD or 303 shouldn't make a difference, I do run low viscosity JD now since my converter was too tight, it isn't as loose as atf, but close.
Old 01-29-2014, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by hellbents10
LOL, prob 500-600+ degrees testing with twin 88s with 111mm turbine wheels and a little 427. It is tuff to make 25psi on the line with a big tire car hahahaha! ProTorque helped us solve that problem and we even had a tighter converter down track to boot! Now we never get it over 300 degrees!
500-600 hahaha WOW!
Thats awesome it never even gets above 300 now, I had trans problems but had to make passes to figure them out that's why it was always 250-300 now its a chilling 220 on the street......
Old 01-29-2014, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro9969
500-600 hahaha WOW!
Thats awesome it never even gets above 300 now, I had trans problems but had to make passes to figure them out that's why it was always 250-300 now its a chilling 220 on the street......
Damn. My 80E only gets into the 180's on the street.
Old 01-29-2014, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28
Damn. My 80E only gets into the 180's on the street.
I bought the atomic cool this year and will mount it in the back hopefully will work a little better than what i have currently
Old 01-29-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28
I am going to switch to the Hy-Gard from the Walmart Supertech ATF and see how it does. My converter could use a little tightening and if this works, great.

Sorry to ask a different question, but is it imperative that you completely flush the trans, converter lines of the regular ATF when making this switch?
No, it's fine if you don't get it all out. That's the only way you can read the fluid on the stick, John Deere by itself is really hard to see. I fill it up completely with hyguard and put a quart of type f in at the end.

And like others have said, it will tighten it up at cruising, but I never noticed a difference when hitting the traps
Old 01-29-2014, 07:07 PM
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Thanks for the info. I am gonna go to tsc tomorrow and get a bucket of the traveler hydraulic fluid.
Old 01-30-2014, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
Thanks for the info. I am gonna go to tsc tomorrow and get a bucket of the traveler hydraulic fluid.
Let me know how you like it. I may do the same.
Old 01-30-2014, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by FlashWS6
Let me know how you like it. I may do the same.
I will let you know Brian. I am looking to tighten the converter up a little and hope this will do the trick.

Did you get your trans back from Ntc yet?
Old 01-30-2014, 11:24 AM
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Ive used both types of JD fluid in my S10 and have smoked the fluid a few times. One time was really bad. Fluid was black and smelled like dead animals. The clutches and steels always looked good though.

Just dont want everyone thinking its some kind of majic oil. Hot lapping, and setting up my bump box (getting up on the brake 3 or 4 times within a few minutes) is what killed the fluid
Old 01-30-2014, 11:41 AM
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I know this trans guard is varies a lot batch and causes lots of problems on their loaders it very hard on seals john Deere cannot decide if it is worth it in their own equipment at one point they recommended another manufacture in my loader due to it also holding heat
Old 01-30-2014, 11:59 AM
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I think theres a lot more to it then this....I haven't played around with more than a street car the last few years but when I ran SSO with Manny Buginga we tried the tractor fluid and burned it up quite a bit seeing temps as Hellbents10 did, I would put the car up on pro-jacks as soon as it came into the pits and take temp readings and the convertor would be in the 400-500 F range even after 4-5 five minutes from scaling etc. This was 04-05 and we were making around 1800 horsepower and seeing 23 psi on the brake at the line with a single 91mm. Our tranny guy said using tractor fluid was kind of a bandaid to not having the right convertor at the time we had a bolt together neil chance deal and it took some time but we finally got the right convertor set up and the trans temps dropped dramatically, even more so when when we tested the aluminum and titanium covered convertors and moved the tranny cooler to the ice tank.... later on on some of the other SSO cars we were actually using a seperate pump and resevoir to remove the hot fluid and replace with cooler fluid so that the car reacted the same on the line because as others have said things will change with heat.... as for breaking planetaries I thought that was a thing of the past haha we switched to what was being used in the monster trucks 10 years ago and never hurt another set or output again.... even when we were at the 2200 HP range going 7.06 @ 206 in a 3100 pound car
Old 01-30-2014, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
I will let you know Brian. I am looking to tighten the converter up a little and hope this will do the trick.

Did you get your trans back from Ntc yet?
Yes sir. waiting on a few more parts before I begin testing lol.
Old 01-30-2014, 06:47 PM
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I picked up 5 gallons of the traveler hydraulic fluid from tsc just now. It was $43.29 out the door. 5 gallons is 20 quarts. That is equal to $2.16 a quart. It says replaces regular Jd hy gard. Gonna put it in this weekend and see how it acts. Stay tuned.
Old 01-30-2014, 07:34 PM
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Hmm. Plan for me is to install my 4L80E tomorrow. I may have to make my way to TSC.
Old 01-30-2014, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by js2fst
I know this trans guard is varies a lot batch and causes lots of problems on their loaders it very hard on seals john Deere cannot decide if it is worth it in their own equipment at one point they recommended another manufacture in my loader due to it also holding heat
What?
Old 01-31-2014, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by silver_82
Ive used both types of JD fluid in my S10 and have smoked the fluid a few times. One time was really bad. Fluid was black and smelled like dead animals. The clutches and steels always looked good though.

Just dont want everyone thinking its some kind of majic oil. Hot lapping, and setting up my bump box (getting up on the brake 3 or 4 times within a few minutes) is what killed the fluid
Do you remember what kind of temps you were seeing when you smoked it? I just had my glide apart yesterday. After few thousand street miles and 100+ passes with 24lb Tbrake launches the clutches/steels, fluid, bands etc all looked great. (10 clutch high gear) Sanded the faces a tad and threw it back together. I don't even think I'll tear it down next season. I never see over 250 degrees and my temp probe is in the pan. Since I'm not racing any real events though I always let it cool down between passes.
Old 01-31-2014, 07:24 AM
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DAMN I LOVE THIS SITE
learn new stuff every day.

I have a 1k-1200hp car being built right now with a jakes 4l80e/trans brake.
should i go straight to the hyd oil for the trans?
Old 01-31-2014, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 9sectruck
DAMN I LOVE THIS SITE
learn new stuff every day.

I have a 1k-1200hp car being built right now with a jakes 4l80e/trans brake.
should i go straight to the hyd oil for the trans?
As said it’s not a magic product, just better than most DINO based ATF and costs less. From what I’ve seen the “top of the line” synthetics are still a better fluid. But you’ll pay $10+ a qt for those and $2-3 a qt for the tractor Hyd fluids.


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