OLSD - Hptuners guys, iat fueling fix?
#103
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Agree the fueling needs to be in line before turning CL on.
I guess I was thinking more along the lines that you would expect big swings in the idle trims if the bias table wasn't tweaked correctly.
I looked at a few different tune files from various vehicles. They are quite different from each other. No doubt due to the different placements of the IAT sensors.
I never ran my C5 in CLSD, no need as it has a maf. However, the STIT were very well behaved under all conditions.
My turbo 5.3 is not yet running, but will be CLSD, I left the O2 sensors in. I put the IAT reasonably close to the TB, in the charge pipe. I should add another bun in that same pipe in front if the core support and see the differences.
Very informative post.
Btw, my vette runs maf only, and runs very well. I leave the LTFT nanny off. Log every dragstrip run, there have been no fueling surprises.
Ron
I guess I was thinking more along the lines that you would expect big swings in the idle trims if the bias table wasn't tweaked correctly.
I looked at a few different tune files from various vehicles. They are quite different from each other. No doubt due to the different placements of the IAT sensors.
I never ran my C5 in CLSD, no need as it has a maf. However, the STIT were very well behaved under all conditions.
My turbo 5.3 is not yet running, but will be CLSD, I left the O2 sensors in. I put the IAT reasonably close to the TB, in the charge pipe. I should add another bun in that same pipe in front if the core support and see the differences.
Very informative post.
Btw, my vette runs maf only, and runs very well. I leave the LTFT nanny off. Log every dragstrip run, there have been no fueling surprises.
Ron
#104
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On a Gen3 app the OLFA table is used to command an abnormally rich mixture to account for cold engine mixture. Look at all the stock calibrations and you'll see this. There are some after start enrichment tables that can also be tweaked but for the most part OLFA has presidence over it all.
The bias simulates heat soak at low engine speed/airflow by biasing MAT towards ECT because ECT is the engine heat that would transfer to the incoming air and is what heats up the engine bay. This is why it works best when the IAT sees no heat soak.
The bias simulates heat soak at low engine speed/airflow by biasing MAT towards ECT because ECT is the engine heat that would transfer to the incoming air and is what heats up the engine bay. This is why it works best when the IAT sees no heat soak.
#105
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anyway to make the ECU go into closed loop with just one 02 sensor bank enabled?
i even have the one sensor, going to both high and low inputs and it still wont close,
i can fire the car and enable closed loop and it trims nice, off the bank1 sensor 1
i set it to trim all cyls, and its in the downpipe, this would be awesome if it would enable closed loop by itself haha
any tricks?
i even have the one sensor, going to both high and low inputs and it still wont close,
i can fire the car and enable closed loop and it trims nice, off the bank1 sensor 1
i set it to trim all cyls, and its in the downpipe, this would be awesome if it would enable closed loop by itself haha
any tricks?
#106
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On a Gen3 app the OLFA table is used to command an abnormally rich mixture to account for cold engine mixture. Look at all the stock calibrations and you'll see this. There are some after start enrichment tables that can also be tweaked but for the most part OLFA has presidence over it all.
The bias simulates heat soak at low engine speed/airflow by biasing MAT towards ECT because ECT is the engine heat that would transfer to the incoming air and is what heats up the engine bay. This is why it works best when the IAT sees no heat soak.
The bias simulates heat soak at low engine speed/airflow by biasing MAT towards ECT because ECT is the engine heat that would transfer to the incoming air and is what heats up the engine bay. This is why it works best when the IAT sees no heat soak.
I bet our turbo setups are worse.
More reason to move the iat
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I wanted to do it on the side but it wasn't flat on the inside where the vacuum nipple was.
PS, don't look at the pictures it suggested I might like based off my intake manifold. lol
PS, don't look at the pictures it suggested I might like based off my intake manifold. lol
#112
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anyway to make the ECU go into closed loop with just one 02 sensor bank enabled?
i even have the one sensor, going to both high and low inputs and it still wont close,
i can fire the car and enable closed loop and it trims nice, off the bank1 sensor 1
i set it to trim all cyls, and its in the downpipe, this would be awesome if it would enable closed loop by itself haha
any tricks?
i even have the one sensor, going to both high and low inputs and it still wont close,
i can fire the car and enable closed loop and it trims nice, off the bank1 sensor 1
i set it to trim all cyls, and its in the downpipe, this would be awesome if it would enable closed loop by itself haha
any tricks?
#114
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the ECU is hard coded for 2
it needs to see a different signal for both sesnors
the way it works is that it runs a routine to add fuel until it swings past stoic, then it takes away furl until it swings past stoic, .... back and forth...
it bascially tries to add on the side where the o2 is...and it follows just fine...
but the other side doesnt do what is expected, and it realizes that, and refuses to go into closed loop
you need both o2 sensors for closed loop
it needs to see a different signal for both sesnors
the way it works is that it runs a routine to add fuel until it swings past stoic, then it takes away furl until it swings past stoic, .... back and forth...
it bascially tries to add on the side where the o2 is...and it follows just fine...
but the other side doesnt do what is expected, and it realizes that, and refuses to go into closed loop
you need both o2 sensors for closed loop
#116
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that will not work either...
you need the o2 sensors in a place where they can read individually...and can each read one side of the engine...
again...
it looks at fuel, and adds or subtracts as necessary...
it adds per bank (1,3,5,7)(2,4,6,8)
so you need one in the drivers side pipe and one in the passenger side pipe
has to happen before the merge of the two.
you need the o2 sensors in a place where they can read individually...and can each read one side of the engine...
again...
it looks at fuel, and adds or subtracts as necessary...
it adds per bank (1,3,5,7)(2,4,6,8)
so you need one in the drivers side pipe and one in the passenger side pipe
has to happen before the merge of the two.
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that will not work either...
you need the o2 sensors in a place where they can read individually...and can each read one side of the engine...
again...
it looks at fuel, and adds or subtracts as necessary...
it adds per bank (1,3,5,7)(2,4,6,8)
so you need one in the drivers side pipe and one in the passenger side pipe
has to happen before the merge of the two.
you need the o2 sensors in a place where they can read individually...and can each read one side of the engine...
again...
it looks at fuel, and adds or subtracts as necessary...
it adds per bank (1,3,5,7)(2,4,6,8)
so you need one in the drivers side pipe and one in the passenger side pipe
has to happen before the merge of the two.
#118
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that will not work either...
you need the o2 sensors in a place where they can read individually...and can each read one side of the engine...
again...
it looks at fuel, and adds or subtracts as necessary...
it adds per bank (1,3,5,7)(2,4,6,8)
so you need one in the drivers side pipe and one in the passenger side pipe
has to happen before the merge of the two.
you need the o2 sensors in a place where they can read individually...and can each read one side of the engine...
again...
it looks at fuel, and adds or subtracts as necessary...
it adds per bank (1,3,5,7)(2,4,6,8)
so you need one in the drivers side pipe and one in the passenger side pipe
has to happen before the merge of the two.
#120
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Finding this thread a little late, but I was having issues with my IAT sensor heat soaking after I shut the engine off for a little while then started it back up. It would be lean for a while till the sensor cooled back down. I'm using a screw in sensor that was in the charge pipe just above the radiator. (See photo below) The heat from the radiator was rising up and heating the sensor and the pipe. I found that tweaking the bias tables was not the answer. Relocating the sensor to the outlet of the FMIC was.