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Budget, reliability, and power; yes I want it all Chico....

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Old 02-13-2014, 07:42 PM
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Default Budget, reliability, and power; yes I want it all Chico....

Countless people have done budget JY boost builds.

My question is, at what point is the JY 5.3 non reliable? I was thinking using either a PT7675 or a S375 for the turbo.

I don't mind doing new bearings, head studs, and maybe rod bolts, but I want to know what would be a realistic reliable RWHP without re-machining the block, and without buying aftermarket rods and pistons all with pump gas, FMIC and meth injection.
Old 02-13-2014, 09:07 PM
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Look at what power others are making and where they blew up at. It shouldn't take you long to come to your own conclusion.
Old 02-13-2014, 09:24 PM
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Thats easier said than done. I have done a bit of searching before I started the thread. There's a RWHP list, and some mention they are stock 5.3's, but they don't go into detail about if they are on their original 5.3, or their 3rd, 4th, or even 5th replacement because their setup was not reliable. Then there are are others that don't have many miles or track runs but have had the cars for a while, so other than taking the painstaking time to PM every boosted stock 5.3 member asking them individually, I felt it better just to start this thread.

I know the stock 5.3 even with bearings, head studs, and rod bolts isn't going to take repeated beatings of 850+ RWHP. At the same time, I know 600 RWHP should be easily achieved. But I would like to hear from those with experience where they thought the reliability line was with pump gas and meth injection as 600-850+ is quite a large range.
Old 02-13-2014, 09:32 PM
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i think if you did bearings, studs, and rod bolts you would push 600 without a problem, of course theres people with tons more, and yes you probably would be leaving some on the table, but it would probably be the middle ground of reliable and affordable
Old 02-13-2014, 09:50 PM
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Thanks John.

Other opinions are welcome.

I would really like to know if rods and pistons are needed for 700-800 at the wheels to be reliable.
Old 02-13-2014, 10:08 PM
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I guess I can be more specific. If I did the stock 5.3 it would be the newer L33 style which should have stronger rods.

Researching more, some seem to think the newer L33 rods are reliable in the 750-1000 HP range, but info was sketchy.
Old 02-14-2014, 06:57 AM
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My deduction after researching quite a bit is to find an '05+ motor with the ls2 rods, and go with a 5.3 because it's a good compromise of CI and material between the cylinders. <120k mile motor, head studs, and ARP rod bolts are good for piece of mind and strength. Don't worry about aluminum block vs iron, if the tunes right, it'll live. And it'll live better on E85 due to cooler temps and cleaner combustion due to ethanol being a cleaner fuel and the compression of the L33 being 10:1. 750rwhp thru an unlocked 4L80E seems to be the threshold of reliability of the L33 and the 4L80E with a basic Transgo 2 shift kit.

This is what my combination I'm building is, with a TC78 turbo with a 1.05ar exhaust housing. Light setup, quick spool, boost solid to 6500rpm.
Old 02-14-2014, 07:05 AM
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Thanks Photocop. I'll be utilizing my M6 with probably some 3.42's or 3.23's so perhaps I could get close to 800 and be somewhat reliable?

I know E85 is superior, but there are no stations close to where I live (there are where I drive, but they are not everywhere). At any rate, for the mileage I would get and the hassle of keeping drums at my house, I really want to keep pump gas and meth injection. If I need to sacrifice a little on the dyno for this I will.
Old 02-14-2014, 07:15 AM
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The stronger 4th gen style rods have been pushed over 1000 HP by several people. It takes a good tune to get them that high and a better tune to make it live, but it shows you what is possible.
Old 02-14-2014, 07:37 AM
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Well that's awesome! Will the pistons hold though? What is the next weak point in the motor?

Basically I want to know if I can make 800-850 at the wheels on pump gas intercooling and meth without having to go aftermarket on the internals and still retain reliability. This would be with the 4th gen 5.3 (which just to verify, the L33 falls under)?
Old 02-14-2014, 07:50 AM
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Yeah you can't really put a number on failure, obviously with anything, but IMO you'd be pretty safe around 800-850rwhp considering the drivetrain loss of an M6 compared to an unlocked automatic. Sorry, didn't realize the car would have an M6 in front of it.
Old 02-14-2014, 07:52 AM
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You'd definitely need to run pump+meth or some type of higher octane+meth. The issues you'll potentially run into are ringland problems, not necessarily the pistons themselves. But both pistons and rings I'd be concerned about over time at 800+
Old 02-14-2014, 07:53 AM
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The L33 is a gen 3 motor (24x reluctor wheel, rear cam sensor, etc)
Old 02-14-2014, 08:36 AM
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L33 is the way to go. Aluminum block, iron sleeves, gen4 rods and floating wrist pins. Dont bother with rod bolts, ive seen more failures (specifically more spun bearings) after they are replaced rather than leaving them alone. If you arent planning on revving to the moon (which i dont suggest), then there is really no point. skinnies went 8s on stock rod bolts, im on stock rod bolts and there are plenty others who dont touch them. Sorry about the rant lol I have just never believed them to be the problem people make them out to be.

On pump gas+meth, you'll be absolutely fine between 600-800hp with a good tune
Old 02-14-2014, 09:39 AM
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Thanks fellas.

So the L33 has the gen 4 rods? Or are you saying it doesn't and that I should use gen 4 rods in the L33?
Old 02-14-2014, 10:10 AM
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L33 has the stronger rods. They are one of the best engines to use for forced induction. Stronger rods, all aluminum, 799/243 heads, thick iron sleeves, with no VVT or any of the other gen 4 stuff that just gets removed.

They are also a swap favorite. There's at least 6 of us Nova owners on this site with an L33, 4 of them turbo. There's also an RX7 or two. I'm pretty sure the L33 was the first stock short block LS motor to go 8.60s in the quarter mile. If you want a 5.3, they are the cream of the crop.
Old 02-14-2014, 11:16 AM
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Well I am sold! Thanks again for the info.
Old 02-14-2014, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CALL911
Thats easier said than done. I have done a bit of searching before I started the thread. There's a RWHP list, and some mention they are stock 5.3's, but they don't go into detail about if they are on their original 5.3, or their 3rd, 4th, or even 5th replacement because their setup was not reliable. Then there are are others that don't have many miles or track runs but have had the cars for a while, so other than taking the painstaking time to PM every boosted stock 5.3 member asking them individually, I felt it better just to start this thread.

I know the stock 5.3 even with bearings, head studs, and rod bolts isn't going to take repeated beatings of 850+ RWHP. At the same time, I know 600 RWHP should be easily achieved. But I would like to hear from those with experience where they thought the reliability line was with pump gas and meth injection as 600-850+ is quite a large range.
Chris's truck (silver_82) makes somewhere in the 900-1000 rwhp range with everything stock (ie. bearing,pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts, no block machining work). Been doing it for 2 years along with surviving drag week with a 8.9 (i think) average. That setup has 100+ passes and keeps going without trouble. If the tune is done correctly these engines in completely stock bottom end form can handle 850+ without a sweat. Mine makes somewhere in the 600 rwhp on 10 lbs and hopefully much more when i get the boost controller hooked up this spring. So far i have had zero issuew with mine and it started with 110,000 miles on it. After drag week, LS Fest, and the Shootout I have 115,000 on the stock bottom end. Also there is plenty of e85 around us also you just need to make the switch
Old 02-14-2014, 02:08 PM
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ive never broken anything at 500whp
Old 02-14-2014, 02:45 PM
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Not a rod bolt fan


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