69 Nova. 5.3 L33 Turbo build. Billet S474, LOTS of pictures...
10-20-2015, 09:19 AM
#242
OK, I have to do this, lol
http://www.1320video.com/mustang-exp...o-at-150mph-2/
http://www.1320video.com/mustang-exp...o-at-150mph-2/
10-21-2015, 11:28 PM
#243
Restricted User
Thread Starter
I've seen those before. Street tires only on the dyno for me from now on.
The trans isn't making any noise. Its a wierd vibration, and I'm not sure where its coming from, but I think the trans is rubbing the floor or the dipstick tube is hitting the firewall. Every gear still works, so does lockup. Engine is running as strong as ever.
When the engine fully warms up, it starts to tick pretty loud. I'm assuming its a lifter, but I can really only hear it from inside the car. When I stick my head under the hood, its kinda hard to hear over those noisy *** injectors and exhaust. Lifter tick is something that normally only happens while the engine is cold, not after it gets hot. I do wonder if maybe my oil is a touch too thick.
The trans isn't making any noise. Its a wierd vibration, and I'm not sure where its coming from, but I think the trans is rubbing the floor or the dipstick tube is hitting the firewall. Every gear still works, so does lockup. Engine is running as strong as ever.
When the engine fully warms up, it starts to tick pretty loud. I'm assuming its a lifter, but I can really only hear it from inside the car. When I stick my head under the hood, its kinda hard to hear over those noisy *** injectors and exhaust. Lifter tick is something that normally only happens while the engine is cold, not after it gets hot. I do wonder if maybe my oil is a touch too thick.
10-22-2015, 01:33 PM
#245
I've seen those before. Street tires only on the dyno for me from now on.
The trans isn't making any noise. Its a wierd vibration, and I'm not sure where its coming from, but I think the trans is rubbing the floor or the dipstick tube is hitting the firewall. Every gear still works, so does lockup. Engine is running as strong as ever.
When the engine fully warms up, it starts to tick pretty loud. I'm assuming its a lifter, but I can really only hear it from inside the car. When I stick my head under the hood, its kinda hard to hear over those noisy *** injectors and exhaust. Lifter tick is something that normally only happens while the engine is cold, not after it gets hot. I do wonder if maybe my oil is a touch too thick.
The trans isn't making any noise. Its a wierd vibration, and I'm not sure where its coming from, but I think the trans is rubbing the floor or the dipstick tube is hitting the firewall. Every gear still works, so does lockup. Engine is running as strong as ever.
When the engine fully warms up, it starts to tick pretty loud. I'm assuming its a lifter, but I can really only hear it from inside the car. When I stick my head under the hood, its kinda hard to hear over those noisy *** injectors and exhaust. Lifter tick is something that normally only happens while the engine is cold, not after it gets hot. I do wonder if maybe my oil is a touch too thick.
10-22-2015, 03:56 PM
#246
Restricted User
Thread Starter
I'm 99% sure its a lifter. It seems to lose a cylinder when it starts to happen. If I go wide open it will quiet down for about a minute, I'm guessing it pumps back up from the high pressure.
I did get a vid. 441 whp, 2nd gear, unlocked converter, 12 PSI, maybe slightly spinning. I'm going to guess close to 525whp on a dynojet with converter locked and no spin. I was shooting for 700whp on 20 lbs and pump gas but I couldn't get a lick of traction once boost hit 14 lbs.
I did get a vid. 441 whp, 2nd gear, unlocked converter, 12 PSI, maybe slightly spinning. I'm going to guess close to 525whp on a dynojet with converter locked and no spin. I was shooting for 700whp on 20 lbs and pump gas but I couldn't get a lick of traction once boost hit 14 lbs.
10-22-2015, 07:34 PM
#248
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Thread Starter
It has a pretty bad 10% throttle surge. It only does it below 10% throttle. It doesn't do it at idle or anything over 10%. Plugs all look identical, I've changed them almost weekly. Surge is from an odd mix of AFR and timing. I haven't gotten around to getting it ironed out, but its a PITA driving around since I only need 8-10% throttle to hold a steady speed.
10-23-2015, 01:08 AM
#249
The dyno I operate is identical.
Would like to see how it's strapped down.
But correct on the street tires.
And belt dressing. It works!
Ran 9.59@142 last night on 14 lbs....testing my new boost ****. Manual controller. 15 psi netted bad tire spin. But the controller works nice.
Would like to see how it's strapped down.
But correct on the street tires.
And belt dressing. It works!
Ran 9.59@142 last night on 14 lbs....testing my new boost ****. Manual controller. 15 psi netted bad tire spin. But the controller works nice.
10-23-2015, 08:09 AM
#250
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Thread Starter
The dyno I operate is identical.
Would like to see how it's strapped down.
But correct on the street tires.
And belt dressing. It works!
Ran 9.59@142 last night on 14 lbs....testing my new boost ****. Manual controller. 15 psi netted bad tire spin. But the controller works nice.
Would like to see how it's strapped down.
But correct on the street tires.
And belt dressing. It works!
Ran 9.59@142 last night on 14 lbs....testing my new boost ****. Manual controller. 15 psi netted bad tire spin. But the controller works nice.
We're at similar weights with similar setups. You probably have more top-end power with your cam and intake, while I have more low - mid power for the same reasons. Even so, I would suspect I could run similar times at 17ish lbs as you are on 14. The fact that I've been driving it daily on 19 lbs without a hiccup gives me even more hope.
10-23-2015, 10:25 AM
#251
Your setup gives me a lot of hope, Ron.
We're at similar weights with similar setups. You probably have more top-end power with your cam and intake, while I have more low - mid power for the same reasons. Even so, I would suspect I could run similar times at 17ish lbs as you are on 14. The fact that I've been driving it daily on 19 lbs without a hiccup gives me even more hope.
We're at similar weights with similar setups. You probably have more top-end power with your cam and intake, while I have more low - mid power for the same reasons. Even so, I would suspect I could run similar times at 17ish lbs as you are on 14. The fact that I've been driving it daily on 19 lbs without a hiccup gives me even more hope.
We have track rental tomorrow at a well prepped track. should be interesting.
Your car looks good!
Ron
10-29-2015, 07:31 AM
#253
Restricted User
Thread Starter
I've been testing the 2 step. I have a wire coming off of the brake switch that goes to a toggle switch, and then that splits between the 2 step box and a relay that breaks signal from the IAT. In the IAT spark correction table in HPT, I went down to the 100 kPa row on the two columns on the farthest left (below freezing IATs), and pulled 10 degrees out, so I shouldn't ever experience the timing drop unless I'm wide open and its 14 degrees out. Since its just 2 cells I could easily tune it out if for some reason I need to drive it in very cold weather.
So when I want to launch, I flip the toggle switch and then the 2 step and anti-lag are activated by the brake pedal. I'll add another relay for the 3rd gear sloppy trans-brake to work on the same circuit, but if I can get by with what I have set up now and don't push through the brakes at 3300, I'll keep it as-is. I'm not sure how the delay on the 3-1 shift would effect my 60-foot time since it will take off for a brief instance in 3rd gear when I let off of the brake.
With no changes to the tune and the 2 step set to 3300 RPM, I can build 3 lbs of boost in ~3 seconds in neutral. This is with 21 degrees of timing.
If I pull 10 degrees, I do get the random backfire, but I can build 7 PSI in ~1.6 seconds in neutral. Since I probably won't get to the track this year, I won't be able to test out how it launches on the different settings. Anything in the 1.5-1.6 60' range would make me more than happy.
So when I want to launch, I flip the toggle switch and then the 2 step and anti-lag are activated by the brake pedal. I'll add another relay for the 3rd gear sloppy trans-brake to work on the same circuit, but if I can get by with what I have set up now and don't push through the brakes at 3300, I'll keep it as-is. I'm not sure how the delay on the 3-1 shift would effect my 60-foot time since it will take off for a brief instance in 3rd gear when I let off of the brake.
With no changes to the tune and the 2 step set to 3300 RPM, I can build 3 lbs of boost in ~3 seconds in neutral. This is with 21 degrees of timing.
If I pull 10 degrees, I do get the random backfire, but I can build 7 PSI in ~1.6 seconds in neutral. Since I probably won't get to the track this year, I won't be able to test out how it launches on the different settings. Anything in the 1.5-1.6 60' range would make me more than happy.
10-29-2015, 07:54 AM
#254
Restricted User
Thread Starter
On another note, after a few slight tuning changes, throwing a different set of tires on (and taking Ron's belt dressing advice), and fixing the negative battery cable issues I had last week, I had a much better experience on the dyno. I was in the area so I dropped in. I'll post vid and graph in a few days when I get time trim the vid and upload them. I'm still having issues with my Imageshack account which is why I haven't posted a decent update in a while, and the pics are gone from my last one.
10-29-2015, 02:03 PM
#255
On another note, after a few slight tuning changes, throwing a different set of tires on (and taking Ron's belt dressing advice), and fixing the negative battery cable issues I had last week, I had a much better experience on the dyno. I was in the area so I dropped in. I'll post vid and graph in a few days when I get time trim the vid and upload them. I'm still having issues with my Imageshack account which is why I haven't posted a decent update in a while, and the pics are gone from my last one.
01-28-2016, 09:04 PM
#256
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Thread Starter
Looks like the car is about to undergo round 2.
Now that its driveable, I need to actually focus on it being a car again.
This winter/spring its getting a mini-tub, new wheels and tires, a new engine harness, switching to a TBSS intake, a new crossover pipe, relocating the battery to the trunk, putting the inner fenders back on, all new weatherstripping (the entire car), some subframe connectors and a drive-shaft loop, new seat belts, 2" lowering blocks for the rear, a new set of lifters, and maybe some other minor improvements.
Afterwards, as long as things go as planned, I'll be replacing all of the glass, replacing the bumpers with fiberglass bumpers, replacing the driver's door, plumbing the fuel filler neck between the taillights, and getting it prepped for paint.
I've managed to tune this thing on 24 PSI on pump/meth. It'll be interesting to see if I can make it completely down the quarter without running out of gear.
Now that its driveable, I need to actually focus on it being a car again.
This winter/spring its getting a mini-tub, new wheels and tires, a new engine harness, switching to a TBSS intake, a new crossover pipe, relocating the battery to the trunk, putting the inner fenders back on, all new weatherstripping (the entire car), some subframe connectors and a drive-shaft loop, new seat belts, 2" lowering blocks for the rear, a new set of lifters, and maybe some other minor improvements.
Afterwards, as long as things go as planned, I'll be replacing all of the glass, replacing the bumpers with fiberglass bumpers, replacing the driver's door, plumbing the fuel filler neck between the taillights, and getting it prepped for paint.
I've managed to tune this thing on 24 PSI on pump/meth. It'll be interesting to see if I can make it completely down the quarter without running out of gear.
03-30-2016, 08:20 PM
#257
Restricted User
Thread Starter
Nova 1.5 got its first drive today. Good and bad.
In the last month, I've lowered the rear 2", switched to TBSS intake, 92mm throttle body, relocated the battery into the trunk, installed new seat belts, new lifters, power brakes, and some other things.
Started it up today. The brake pedal is floppy and loose for the first 50% of the throw. with the car running, you can literally wiggle it back and forth with a finger. Brakes DO work though, just needs some major adjustment I guess.
Went for a drive. I expected the tune to be a little off, but it was WAY off. Backfired, cut out, stumbled. Kept blowing the intercooler piping off of the throttle body. Got home, checked the logs. The TPS wasn't reading at all. I'm going to assume this is why it was running so bad. Once I plugged it back in, the car ran much better and the AFR was a little more steady. Still can't do any pulls, it keeps blowing the intercooler piping off. Blows it off so hard that the meth nozzle crashed into the radiator, busted into the piping, and dented the radiator.
Tried 3 T bolt clamps and a worm clamp. Nothing will hold it on there.... The new elbow coupler at the throttle body is 50% thicker than the old one, and the lip on the throttle is a lot smaller, so I think its having trouble getting any bite.
In the last month, I've lowered the rear 2", switched to TBSS intake, 92mm throttle body, relocated the battery into the trunk, installed new seat belts, new lifters, power brakes, and some other things.
Started it up today. The brake pedal is floppy and loose for the first 50% of the throw. with the car running, you can literally wiggle it back and forth with a finger. Brakes DO work though, just needs some major adjustment I guess.
Went for a drive. I expected the tune to be a little off, but it was WAY off. Backfired, cut out, stumbled. Kept blowing the intercooler piping off of the throttle body. Got home, checked the logs. The TPS wasn't reading at all. I'm going to assume this is why it was running so bad. Once I plugged it back in, the car ran much better and the AFR was a little more steady. Still can't do any pulls, it keeps blowing the intercooler piping off. Blows it off so hard that the meth nozzle crashed into the radiator, busted into the piping, and dented the radiator.
Tried 3 T bolt clamps and a worm clamp. Nothing will hold it on there.... The new elbow coupler at the throttle body is 50% thicker than the old one, and the lip on the throttle is a lot smaller, so I think its having trouble getting any bite.
03-30-2016, 10:42 PM
#258
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I'm 99% sure its a lifter. It seems to lose a cylinder when it starts to happen. If I go wide open it will quiet down for about a minute, I'm guessing it pumps back up from the high pressure.
I did get a vid. 441 whp, 2nd gear, unlocked converter, 12 PSI, maybe slightly spinning. I'm going to guess close to 525whp on a dynojet with converter locked and no spin. I was shooting for 700whp on 20 lbs and pump gas but I couldn't get a lick of traction once boost hit 14 lbs.
441whp dyno pull. 69 Nova, turbo 5.3 - YouTube
I did get a vid. 441 whp, 2nd gear, unlocked converter, 12 PSI, maybe slightly spinning. I'm going to guess close to 525whp on a dynojet with converter locked and no spin. I was shooting for 700whp on 20 lbs and pump gas but I couldn't get a lick of traction once boost hit 14 lbs.
441whp dyno pull. 69 Nova, turbo 5.3 - YouTube
03-31-2016, 12:16 AM
#260
I've been testing the 2 step. I have a wire coming off of the brake switch that goes to a toggle switch, and then that splits between the 2 step box and a relay that breaks signal from the IAT. In the IAT spark correction table in HPT, I went down to the 100 kPa row on the two columns on the farthest left (below freezing IATs), and pulled 10 degrees out, so I shouldn't ever experience the timing drop unless I'm wide open and its 14 degrees out. Since its just 2 cells I could easily tune it out if for some reason I need to drive it in very cold weather.
So when I want to launch, I flip the toggle switch and then the 2 step and anti-lag are activated by the brake pedal. I'll add another relay for the 3rd gear sloppy trans-brake to work on the same circuit, but if I can get by with what I have set up now and don't push through the brakes at 3300, I'll keep it as-is. I'm not sure how the delay on the 3-1 shift would effect my 60-foot time since it will take off for a brief instance in 3rd gear when I let off of the brake.
With no changes to the tune and the 2 step set to 3300 RPM, I can build 3 lbs of boost in ~3 seconds in neutral. This is with 21 degrees of timing.
If I pull 10 degrees, I do get the random backfire, but I can build 7 PSI in ~1.6 seconds in neutral. Since I probably won't get to the track this year, I won't be able to test out how it launches on the different settings. Anything in the 1.5-1.6 60' range would make me more than happy.
So when I want to launch, I flip the toggle switch and then the 2 step and anti-lag are activated by the brake pedal. I'll add another relay for the 3rd gear sloppy trans-brake to work on the same circuit, but if I can get by with what I have set up now and don't push through the brakes at 3300, I'll keep it as-is. I'm not sure how the delay on the 3-1 shift would effect my 60-foot time since it will take off for a brief instance in 3rd gear when I let off of the brake.
With no changes to the tune and the 2 step set to 3300 RPM, I can build 3 lbs of boost in ~3 seconds in neutral. This is with 21 degrees of timing.
If I pull 10 degrees, I do get the random backfire, but I can build 7 PSI in ~1.6 seconds in neutral. Since I probably won't get to the track this year, I won't be able to test out how it launches on the different settings. Anything in the 1.5-1.6 60' range would make me more than happy.