AES vs. ERL for a Supercharged C5
You'd get real close to 200 now on the right day. Actually, it'd run out of gear up top currently. You're on the verge w/ your current setup, 850-900 would put you at near 215, if geared correctly.
FormerVendor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6
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Awesome! Quality is one of our best shops we deal with.
probably the M3 package...for several reasons.
- It has the doweled billet main caps which are def. going to help.
- Stronger sleeve design (I agree w/ everyone else, you're going to want MORE!! )
- Better crank & rods
I would maybe just do a 1/2" head stud if you don't want to get 6 bolt heads etc. this will give you the better clamp for when you really want to push power.
probably the M3 package...for several reasons.
- It has the doweled billet main caps which are def. going to help.
- Stronger sleeve design (I agree w/ everyone else, you're going to want MORE!!
)- Better crank & rods
I would maybe just do a 1/2" head stud if you don't want to get 6 bolt heads etc. this will give you the better clamp for when you really want to push power.
both shops are great! Personally I went with AES, I wanted the 390 at the time but because Callies didn't have that size crank available at the time we decided to punch it out to a 408. Mine is a lq9 block at 10:5:1 on e85 with a pt91.5mm turbo making 1100 rear wheel right now, I beat on it a lot, have fun and although its not my daily driver I have not had any issues. If you really only want 850-900 you don't need the 6 bolts per cylinder head but if its peace of mind your after you will definitely pay for it. Even if you wanted 1000 or more those 390's are proven, they work and will save you some coin over the superdeck 1 setup.....both are great companies, really the thing it comes down to is will 850-900 be your limit or will you be wanting to turn the power up. Brian and the guys at AES are great to work with and will answer any questions you have even after hours. Also AES can build your setup using the ERL block they have done that before. Good luck with your build and have fun.
your looking at roughly 9-10k for a nice ERL shortblock depending on options. but apparently the warranty and service is awesome.
With an AES longblock (like i run) with 1/2 studs, PRC 237's, Cam installed and degreed and ready to drop in the car out of the box it was around 9-10k. 800-900 is fine for a 4 bolt. I have had great luck out of them taking care of minor issues paying out of pocket to make me happy. Racing season will put them behind on build times no matter which one you choose.
With an AES longblock (like i run) with 1/2 studs, PRC 237's, Cam installed and degreed and ready to drop in the car out of the box it was around 9-10k. 800-900 is fine for a 4 bolt. I have had great luck out of them taking care of minor issues paying out of pocket to make me happy. Racing season will put them behind on build times no matter which one you choose.
wanted to jump in on some technical differences:
AES crank = Callies Commercial line crank (5140 steel)
ERL crank in M5 = Callies Dragonslayer (4340 steel, forging & finish work done in USA)
AES rods = Compstar H beam
ERL rods in M5 = Callies Ultra Billet I beam (better option for 1,000+)
Some of the other differences is that ERL is using a coated bearing in the M5 vs. a non-coated bearing. Of course you have the difference in weight on the Iron 6.0L vs. an aluminum which is somewhere around 100 lbs.
The benefit too that you get with an ERL block is the fact that they use a longer sleeve length of 5.800" which definitely helps when running a 4.00" stroker crank not having as much piston hanging out of the bottom of the bore. Especially if you drive the car a lot. Another big thing is obviously the 6 bolt option on the M5 but like everyone else said, I agree you could do a 4 bolt setup for only 850-900 but it would be nice to have some extra clamp for 1,000 even if it's just a 1/2" head stud. You could do their M3 package instead.
But I've pointed out the differences in parts etc. above to note why you have the price difference between the 2.
AES crank = Callies Commercial line crank (5140 steel)
ERL crank in M5 = Callies Dragonslayer (4340 steel, forging & finish work done in USA)
AES rods = Compstar H beam
ERL rods in M5 = Callies Ultra Billet I beam (better option for 1,000+)
Some of the other differences is that ERL is using a coated bearing in the M5 vs. a non-coated bearing. Of course you have the difference in weight on the Iron 6.0L vs. an aluminum which is somewhere around 100 lbs.
The benefit too that you get with an ERL block is the fact that they use a longer sleeve length of 5.800" which definitely helps when running a 4.00" stroker crank not having as much piston hanging out of the bottom of the bore. Especially if you drive the car a lot. Another big thing is obviously the 6 bolt option on the M5 but like everyone else said, I agree you could do a 4 bolt setup for only 850-900 but it would be nice to have some extra clamp for 1,000 even if it's just a 1/2" head stud. You could do their M3 package instead.
But I've pointed out the differences in parts etc. above to note why you have the price difference between the 2.
OP,
AES did my 427 stroker. made 560rwhp on a mustang dyno N/A. I love it.
stock 5.3s make 700-800rwhp. an AES 390 is going to be fine for your goals unless you just wanna spend the extra money.
Buy what you want. If not then you will always want the other. Spend money once and be done with it. I was debating the same as you a few months ago and decided to go with a LME Dart LS Next block.
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