02 SS D1SC build with a few added features.... makes 808whp.....
08-14-2014, 05:10 PM
#84
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Kinda what I was thinking..... I thought the ...X05 stamp on the pistons correlated to a 4.005 bore piston according to Weisco's website, maybe not.
Either way I can't wait to see how this beast turns out !!!!
Either way I can't wait to see how this beast turns out !!!!
Last edited by No Juice; 08-14-2014 at 05:31 PM.
08-14-2014, 07:35 PM
#85
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08-14-2014, 11:46 PM
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I used the o6 GTO alternator bracket to spot the threaded correct thickness flat bar to add the front bracket bolt done.
Congrats OP Nice build great numbers.
Let me mention something else while on here, I used a 9" custom crank pulley and a 4" blower pulley to make over 1100 crankshaft torq at 5,600 rpm with a d1sc and 6,300 max engine rpm at which blower speed was only 56,000 out of the possible 62,000 rpm max recommended by ATI.
What I'm saying there's a lot to be had from the d1.
08-15-2014, 01:54 PM
#88
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Hope these will helps some one.... Add third Bolt Hole on iron Blocks
Originally Posted by No Juice
I saw that you welded an additional threaded boss to an iron block. Can you provide me some more information on this or send me some photos on how you did it ?
How did you weld to the cast iron ?
Any help would be appreciated since I need to do this as well to attach the procharger bracket.
HERE'S HOW TO DO IT;
Buy from welding supply cast iron welding rods. I don't think I have any of the pictures I lost my cell phone and all was lost.
You must get the rite welding rods though in years past we used UTP8 German welding rods to save blocks with heavy damage where big chunks were missing, now Hobart, Lincoln electric and Harris make their own, you need to keep in mind there's some cheap cast iron welding rods sold for wrought iron workers, and those cast iron welding rods are good for what they do, but those welds crack a lot of hair lines and you can not have that, as they can potentially damage the block, the cheap cast iron welding rods are easy to identify sense they are cheap, about 3 to 4 dollars per pound or less.
The welding rods you must get cost somewhere in the 15 to 20 dollars per pound range, those welding rods don't crack their welds.
Bellow a chart, any of those rods will do but the safest one is the first one the list with the highest nickel contents.
Before we get to that; an easy way to correctly position the boss is by installing a factory bracket or the bracket you are going to use, after you install the bracket you can figure out the thickness of stock to use, use the thickest you can so to have more threads, then you select the stock and before you cut the piece you need drill and tap to the other bracket bolt thread size, then you can cut the threaded boss to fit.
Now you take the correct length bolt and bolt the boss to the bracket tight enough to keep it dead center on the bracket bolt hole, weld it on one side, allow 5 minutes to let it cool off some, to avoid the shifting that takes place rite after the weld is done, then remove the bracket and weld the boss all around, done.
When do I use Lincoln Softweld® 99Ni, 55Ni and Ferroweld® electrodes?
Choosing electrodes for welding cast iron typically comes down to three things: cost, machine-ability, and whether the weld is single or multiple pass.
Softweld 99Ni (AWS class ENi-CI) is a nominally 99% Nickel electrode. Nickel is expensive, and so, therefore, is this premium electrode. The electrode will deposit welds that are machine-able, an important consideration when the casting is to be machined after welding. Repairs made with Softweld 99Ni are often single pass welds with high admixture. Even with high admixture, the weld deposit will remain machine-able. It works best on castings with low or medium phosphorous contents.
Softweld 55Ni (AWS class ENiFe-CI)is a nominally 55% Nickel electrode. The lower Nickel content makes this electrode more economical than Softweld 99Ni. Weld deposits are usually machine-able, but under conditions of high admixture, the welds can become hard and difficult to machine. It is often used for repairing castings with heavy or thick sections. As compared to Softweld 99Ni, welds made with 55 Ni are stronger and more ductile, and more tolerant of phosphorous in the casting. It also has a lower coefficient of expansion than 99Ni, resulting in fewer fusion line cracks.
Ferroweld (AWS class ESt) is a lower cost, steel electrode. The weld deposits are hard, and are not machine-able, but can be finished by grinding. This is the lowest cost electrode for welding cast iron, and the electrode has a very user-friendly arc. It can tolerate welding on castings that cannot be completely cleaned before welding. Ferroweld deposits will rust, just like cast iron. This may be important when repairing cast iron parts such as exhaust manifolds on antique cars.
Two last notes;
You will only need one rod to weld the boss you are adding and usually the welding supplier will give you a couple of sample rods to try.
Regardless of the welding rod you decide to use be sure to remove all paint, rust and oil as the foundation of a good weld is a clean surface.
Enjoy your build and God Bless, David
Originally Posted by No Juice
I saw that you welded an additional threaded boss to an iron block. Can you provide me some more information on this or send me some photos on how you did it ?
How did you weld to the cast iron ?
Any help would be appreciated since I need to do this as well to attach the procharger bracket.
HERE'S HOW TO DO IT;
Buy from welding supply cast iron welding rods. I don't think I have any of the pictures I lost my cell phone and all was lost.
You must get the rite welding rods though in years past we used UTP8 German welding rods to save blocks with heavy damage where big chunks were missing, now Hobart, Lincoln electric and Harris make their own, you need to keep in mind there's some cheap cast iron welding rods sold for wrought iron workers, and those cast iron welding rods are good for what they do, but those welds crack a lot of hair lines and you can not have that, as they can potentially damage the block, the cheap cast iron welding rods are easy to identify sense they are cheap, about 3 to 4 dollars per pound or less.
The welding rods you must get cost somewhere in the 15 to 20 dollars per pound range, those welding rods don't crack their welds.
Bellow a chart, any of those rods will do but the safest one is the first one the list with the highest nickel contents.
Before we get to that; an easy way to correctly position the boss is by installing a factory bracket or the bracket you are going to use, after you install the bracket you can figure out the thickness of stock to use, use the thickest you can so to have more threads, then you select the stock and before you cut the piece you need drill and tap to the other bracket bolt thread size, then you can cut the threaded boss to fit.
Now you take the correct length bolt and bolt the boss to the bracket tight enough to keep it dead center on the bracket bolt hole, weld it on one side, allow 5 minutes to let it cool off some, to avoid the shifting that takes place rite after the weld is done, then remove the bracket and weld the boss all around, done.
When do I use Lincoln Softweld® 99Ni, 55Ni and Ferroweld® electrodes?
Choosing electrodes for welding cast iron typically comes down to three things: cost, machine-ability, and whether the weld is single or multiple pass.
Softweld 99Ni (AWS class ENi-CI) is a nominally 99% Nickel electrode. Nickel is expensive, and so, therefore, is this premium electrode. The electrode will deposit welds that are machine-able, an important consideration when the casting is to be machined after welding. Repairs made with Softweld 99Ni are often single pass welds with high admixture. Even with high admixture, the weld deposit will remain machine-able. It works best on castings with low or medium phosphorous contents.
Softweld 55Ni (AWS class ENiFe-CI)is a nominally 55% Nickel electrode. The lower Nickel content makes this electrode more economical than Softweld 99Ni. Weld deposits are usually machine-able, but under conditions of high admixture, the welds can become hard and difficult to machine. It is often used for repairing castings with heavy or thick sections. As compared to Softweld 99Ni, welds made with 55 Ni are stronger and more ductile, and more tolerant of phosphorous in the casting. It also has a lower coefficient of expansion than 99Ni, resulting in fewer fusion line cracks.
Ferroweld (AWS class ESt) is a lower cost, steel electrode. The weld deposits are hard, and are not machine-able, but can be finished by grinding. This is the lowest cost electrode for welding cast iron, and the electrode has a very user-friendly arc. It can tolerate welding on castings that cannot be completely cleaned before welding. Ferroweld deposits will rust, just like cast iron. This may be important when repairing cast iron parts such as exhaust manifolds on antique cars.
Two last notes;
You will only need one rod to weld the boss you are adding and usually the welding supplier will give you a couple of sample rods to try.
Regardless of the welding rod you decide to use be sure to remove all paint, rust and oil as the foundation of a good weld is a clean surface.
Enjoy your build and God Bless, David
08-15-2014, 02:30 PM
#89
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What I did to the lq9 I added the drivers front bracket thread by welding it in place.
I used the o6 GTO alternator bracket to spot the threaded correct thickness flat bar to add the front bracket bolt done.
Congrats OP Nice build great numbers.
Let me mention something else while on here, I used a 9" custom crank pulley and a 4" blower pulley to make over 1100 crankshaft torq at 5,600 rpm with a d1sc and 6,300 max engine rpm at which blower speed was only 56,000 out of the possible 62,000 rpm max recommended by ATI.
What I'm saying there's a lot to be had from the d1.
I used the o6 GTO alternator bracket to spot the threaded correct thickness flat bar to add the front bracket bolt done.
Congrats OP Nice build great numbers.
Let me mention something else while on here, I used a 9" custom crank pulley and a 4" blower pulley to make over 1100 crankshaft torq at 5,600 rpm with a d1sc and 6,300 max engine rpm at which blower speed was only 56,000 out of the possible 62,000 rpm max recommended by ATI.
What I'm saying there's a lot to be had from the d1.
08-15-2014, 05:55 PM
#90
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The LQ9 and other cast iron blocks are missing the front bracket bolt boss.
Not so the case with the LSX blocks, those come equipped to play.
The LQ9 else comes with a deep stick hole on the passenger side of the block and in some cases like on the late model GTO those holes have to be weld shot cause a deep stick hole is existing on their oil pan.
Not so the case with the LSX blocks, those come equipped to play.
The LQ9 else comes with a deep stick hole on the passenger side of the block and in some cases like on the late model GTO those holes have to be weld shot cause a deep stick hole is existing on their oil pan.
03-10-2015, 12:52 AM
#91
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I know this post is pretty old but I just wanted to say that your build is pretty damn nice!! Congrats. Another thing I wanted to ask is concerning the injectors. What injectors did you use for the stock LS1 set up, and the later build up? Thanks!!
03-11-2015, 03:56 PM
#92
This build is really nice! Definitely had to post up props. I really like the way you did the intercooler piping. I might have to refab mine! Lol. My build is at the tuner now but I plan to max out the D1SC blower on my forged bottom end 383 LS1. Starting with low boost first to get the bugs out and then max it out. I love to race but haven't had my car going in years. Have you had this thing to the track on old or new setup?
03-12-2015, 09:23 AM
#94
No driveshaft loop on this build? I'm planning a TD 2.5" build right now and went with the MWC DS loop for clearance.
04-15-2015, 08:37 AM
#95
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Finally got this car back on the rack. We've added a precision sheet metal intake, rpm stage 4 6060, and twin in tank 450s to the build. I'll post up more pictures soon...
04-20-2015, 08:16 AM
#98
Absolutely a stunning car! I can't wait to see what the new numbers are.
How loud is this car with the borla mufflers? I got a set of Kooks TD's but I'm thinking they might be too loud. If they are, I'm going to change mufflers.
How loud is this car with the borla mufflers? I got a set of Kooks TD's but I'm thinking they might be too loud. If they are, I'm going to change mufflers.
