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Old May 28, 2014 | 04:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I grounded the block to the chassis with a chunk of 1ga batt cable. Welded a 3/8" bolt upside down to the frame.
You really can't go overkill on grounds.

I guess I'll find out about TR6 plugs gapped at .035" and 14 psi on Sat. :-)

Ron
If your not popping now Ron my guess is your probably ok.

Anybody now how to test coils? Guess I can ohm them out but sometimes coils get funny when their hot or pushed. Can't say I saw a lot of coils failures in my life.
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Old May 28, 2014 | 05:20 PM
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Probably not a lot of help to you...


With no equipment like the above..a simple gap jumper type test is valid. A good coil will still easily jump an inch or so.

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Old May 28, 2014 | 06:21 PM
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What's the chances all this grief is over the LS6 springs I'm using? I know there a little on the weak side, but I figured for a ~6000 rpm limit they would of been OK. Heck, there's some guys using 100k+ mile stock springs with ~14 psi!
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Old May 28, 2014 | 06:25 PM
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Anything is possible.
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Old May 28, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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I definitely agree with going to a nonprojected tr7, BR7EF, but that's not why it's breaking up. 12 psi and 12 degrees of timing with a low 11:1 a/f should be fine without meth unless your compression ratio is high. Make a single pull without meth, watch iat's and knock, and see if it breaks up. I agree with Stevieturbo, with the meth you may be too rich for that timing.
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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at WOT there no need to be at 11.0:1 at 12psi
you should be around 12.0:1 without meth, and only use enough meth to make it go to 11.5:1...
if you want to push it to 11.0:1 with the meth, Just be aware that it will probably hurt power, not help it at that point.

in general...best power with meth comes around 10%~15% of your Fuel demands...
meaning if your engine uses 300lb/hr of fuel, your best power will be around 30~45 lb/hr of meth added to it.

beyond that, you may get some extra cooling benefits, but you often will lose a little power.
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
make sure you have a resistor plug....
if you dont, you will have issues...
LS coils dont like non resistor plugs, and teh Holley ECU doesnt like non resistor plugs

I've many times solved issues like you are having just by putting in a resistor plug.


at 12 psi, a plug with a heat range 6 should be fine
get something non protruded tip and it will help as well
Br6ef or BR7ef

you also need a ground from the engine directly to the battery, the chassis is a dirty ground and can cause some issues
there is also a Holley Ignition ground that needs to connect to the engine
the main power/ground should go straight to the batter, or straight to your shut off switch/battery.
A 6 is too hot using E85 and boost. IMO. A minimum would be a 7 and an 8 would give much more room for error.
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked69
A 6 is too hot using E85 and boost. IMO. A minimum would be a 7 and an 8 would give much more room for error.
only reading a plug will tell the whole story...
I've never had an issue on cars with 12psi, on br6ef plugs and 93 octane pump gas....
E85 should not have any issues either since it has a little wider tuning window.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:01 AM
  #29  
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Also worth noting, that at such low duties like you suggest, 8% meth flow with such large nozzles...

Pump duty/speed/voltage is probably so low, that pressure in turn would be very low and it would just be lots of dribbles rather than a spray
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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Also worth noting, that at such low duties like you suggest, 8% meth flow with such large nozzles...

Pump duty/speed/voltage is probably so low, that pressure in turn would be very low and it would just be lots of dribbles rather than a spray
I don't think pump speed varies, but I could be wrong.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl
I don't think pump speed varies, but I could be wrong.
If it is what is generally called a progressive controller, then unless he's using Aquamist. Then yes pump speed will vary.

If he's using a simple off/on and dumping tons of methanol and water in suddenly....then no surprise if it's bogging in or misfiring.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
at WOT there no need to be at 11.0:1 at 12psi
you should be around 12.0:1 without meth, and only use enough meth to make it go to 11.5:1...
if you want to push it to 11.0:1 with the meth, Just be aware that it will probably hurt power, not help it at that point.

in general...best power with meth comes around 10%~15% of your Fuel demands...
meaning if your engine uses 300lb/hr of fuel, your best power will be around 30~45 lb/hr of meth added to it.

beyond that, you may get some extra cooling benefits, but you often will lose a little power.
12:1 on pump gas @ 12 psi is asking to blow something up. If he's on E85, thats another story. 12 psi should make almost 700rwhp depending on the setup, so if you wanted to make a pull with NO meth, he needs to be richer than that at that boost level on pump gas. If he said he's on E85 somewhere in this thread, I must have missed it.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Also worth noting, that at such low duties like you suggest, 8% meth flow with such large nozzles...

Pump duty/speed/voltage is probably so low, that pressure in turn would be very low and it would just be lots of dribbles rather than a spray
I'm not saying duty cycle should be 10%~15%

I'm saying total flow should be about 10% of total fuel flow....
buy an appropriate sized nozzle to match

Originally Posted by ddnspider
12:1 on pump gas @ 12 psi is asking to blow something up. If he's on E85, thats another story. 12 psi should make almost 700rwhp depending on the setup, so if you wanted to make a pull with NO meth, he needs to be richer than that at that boost level on pump gas. If he said he's on E85 somewhere in this thread, I must have missed it.
12:1 on pump gas will not blow up something....
people have this myth in their heads that it needs to be pig rich...

read your plugs and you will see what it wants...its not going to be 11.0:1 at 12 psi...
its going to be 11.8:1~ 12.2:1


on e-85 it needs to be around 7.8:1 (e85 is 9.65 stoic)

were talking about a lambda .81 ish.....instead of being at .70 ish which is pig rich at 12 psi.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
I'm not saying duty cycle should be 10%~15%

I'm saying total flow should be about 10% of total fuel flow....
buy an appropriate sized nozzle to match



12:1 on pump gas will not blow up something....
people have this myth in their heads that it needs to be pig rich...

read your plugs and you will see what it wants...its not going to be 11.0:1 at 12 psi...
its going to be 11.8:1~ 12.2:1


on e-85 it needs to be around 7.8:1 (e85 is 9.65 stoic)

were talking about a lambda .81 ish.....instead of being at .70 ish which is pig rich at 12 psi.
I have tried 12:1 on pump before and no boosted setup I've ever tuned made close to best power at that A/F ratio. They always picked up down to the low 11's:1. If you're not using meth, good luck with high IAT's on pump gas and 12:1. Sounds like a good recipe for knock.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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The good news is that I'm running 11.5:1 so everybody should be happy!
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Old May 29, 2014 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Only other thing I can think of is that I just changed brands/type of meth...I threw the bottle out, but it said something like "-127*, windshield de-icer" and its purple. Not sure it makes a difference.
So what exactly are you running now for fluid?

The way your thread reads I thought you were spraying straight meth. Make sure to read the MSDS on the fluid you use. Should be nothing in it but water dye and methanol. Some of the deicers have glycol and all kinds of weird crap in them. Stick to windshield washer fluid.

If your problems started right after adding the new fluid I'd say thats part of the problem. I had issues with injecting large fluid amounts with any amount of water in it. If you went from a -127* fluid (i've never heard of this assuming it has other additives in it) to a -20* fluid It will make a big difference in the amount of water vs meth in the fluid.

Gap to .022 verify your fluid type and methanol percentage. Turn the boost down and turn the meth off to make sure you don't have a non related issue.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
So what exactly are you running now for fluid?

The way your thread reads I thought you were spraying straight meth. Make sure to read the MSDS on the fluid you use. Should be nothing in it but water dye and methanol. Some of the deicers have glycol and all kinds of weird crap in them. Stick to windshield washer fluid.

If your problems started right after adding the new fluid I'd say thats part of the problem. I had issues with injecting large fluid amounts with any amount of water in it. If you went from a -127* fluid (i've never heard of this assuming it has other additives in it) to a -20* fluid It will make a big difference in the amount of water vs meth in the fluid.

Gap to .022 verify your fluid type and methanol percentage. Turn the boost down and turn the meth off to make sure you don't have a non related issue.

You guys will have to forgive me as I'm sorta new to the turbo world and trying to learn as much as I can, and appreciate all the kind advice I'm getting hear. I'm a BBC guy at heart, but digging this boost thing

The meth mixture I purchased may of said -20 vs -127*...actually it probably was -20*...and it did say meth and dye on the lable that I do remember.

Just so that I'm explaining how this meth system works (and I really have no business explaining anything to be honest) is that there is 2 solenoids that are driven by a injector driver circuit and pressuried by the pump. As far as I know the pump doesnt vary in speed/pressure. I think the meth solenoids operate much like an injector using constant pressure and the puslewidth (for lack of a better term) is modulated by the ECM. What I'm trying to say is I dont think this system "dribbles" or "dumps" meth/water in.

But my plan of attack at this point is (in this order):

*Run another grd wire to the engine
*turn off meth/water
*tighten gaps
*replace valve springs
*change coils.

I do have a 2007 5.3 Tahoe here I could "borrow" the coils from but I doubt they would work with the 24x system I'm running - anybody???


Thanks all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old May 29, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Me and Vince, rat motor converts. Watch out for us! Ha!

Vince, can you somehow trigger the meth setup with the nozzles removed so you can see what the spray looks like?

Ron
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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Me and Vince, rat motor converts. Watch out for us! Ha!

Vince, can you somehow trigger the meth setup with the nozzles removed so you can see what the spray looks like?

Ron
think I can...just have it come at idle...might make a mess though!!
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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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unplug nozzle....aim towards middle of nowhere..LOL
put 12v and ground to pump
put 12v and ground to solenoid(if applicable)....

no need to have engine running
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