Spark blow-out causes
Anybody now how to test coils? Guess I can ohm them out but sometimes coils get funny when their hot or pushed. Can't say I saw a lot of coils failures in my life.
you should be around 12.0:1 without meth, and only use enough meth to make it go to 11.5:1...
if you want to push it to 11.0:1 with the meth, Just be aware that it will probably hurt power, not help it at that point.
in general...best power with meth comes around 10%~15% of your Fuel demands...
meaning if your engine uses 300lb/hr of fuel, your best power will be around 30~45 lb/hr of meth added to it.
beyond that, you may get some extra cooling benefits, but you often will lose a little power.
if you dont, you will have issues...
LS coils dont like non resistor plugs, and teh Holley ECU doesnt like non resistor plugs
I've many times solved issues like you are having just by putting in a resistor plug.
at 12 psi, a plug with a heat range 6 should be fine
get something non protruded tip and it will help as well
Br6ef or BR7ef
you also need a ground from the engine directly to the battery, the chassis is a dirty ground and can cause some issues
there is also a Holley Ignition ground that needs to connect to the engine
the main power/ground should go straight to the batter, or straight to your shut off switch/battery.
I've never had an issue on cars with 12psi, on br6ef plugs and 93 octane pump gas....
E85 should not have any issues either since it has a little wider tuning window.
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Pump duty/speed/voltage is probably so low, that pressure in turn would be very low and it would just be lots of dribbles rather than a spray
If he's using a simple off/on and dumping tons of methanol and water in suddenly....then no surprise if it's bogging in or misfiring.
you should be around 12.0:1 without meth, and only use enough meth to make it go to 11.5:1...
if you want to push it to 11.0:1 with the meth, Just be aware that it will probably hurt power, not help it at that point.
in general...best power with meth comes around 10%~15% of your Fuel demands...
meaning if your engine uses 300lb/hr of fuel, your best power will be around 30~45 lb/hr of meth added to it.
beyond that, you may get some extra cooling benefits, but you often will lose a little power.
I'm saying total flow should be about 10% of total fuel flow....
buy an appropriate sized nozzle to match
people have this myth in their heads that it needs to be pig rich...
read your plugs and you will see what it wants...its not going to be 11.0:1 at 12 psi...
its going to be 11.8:1~ 12.2:1
on e-85 it needs to be around 7.8:1 (e85 is 9.65 stoic)
were talking about a lambda .81 ish.....instead of being at .70 ish which is pig rich at 12 psi.
I'm saying total flow should be about 10% of total fuel flow....
buy an appropriate sized nozzle to match
12:1 on pump gas will not blow up something....
people have this myth in their heads that it needs to be pig rich...
read your plugs and you will see what it wants...its not going to be 11.0:1 at 12 psi...
its going to be 11.8:1~ 12.2:1
on e-85 it needs to be around 7.8:1 (e85 is 9.65 stoic)
were talking about a lambda .81 ish.....instead of being at .70 ish which is pig rich at 12 psi.
The way your thread reads I thought you were spraying straight meth. Make sure to read the MSDS on the fluid you use. Should be nothing in it but water dye and methanol. Some of the deicers have glycol and all kinds of weird crap in them. Stick to windshield washer fluid.
If your problems started right after adding the new fluid I'd say thats part of the problem. I had issues with injecting large fluid amounts with any amount of water in it. If you went from a -127* fluid (i've never heard of this assuming it has other additives in it) to a -20* fluid It will make a big difference in the amount of water vs meth in the fluid.
Gap to .022 verify your fluid type and methanol percentage. Turn the boost down and turn the meth off to make sure you don't have a non related issue.
The way your thread reads I thought you were spraying straight meth. Make sure to read the MSDS on the fluid you use. Should be nothing in it but water dye and methanol. Some of the deicers have glycol and all kinds of weird crap in them. Stick to windshield washer fluid.
If your problems started right after adding the new fluid I'd say thats part of the problem. I had issues with injecting large fluid amounts with any amount of water in it. If you went from a -127* fluid (i've never heard of this assuming it has other additives in it) to a -20* fluid It will make a big difference in the amount of water vs meth in the fluid.
Gap to .022 verify your fluid type and methanol percentage. Turn the boost down and turn the meth off to make sure you don't have a non related issue.
You guys will have to forgive me as I'm sorta new to the turbo world and trying to learn as much as I can, and appreciate all the kind advice I'm getting hear. I'm a BBC guy at heart, but digging this boost thing

The meth mixture I purchased may of said -20 vs -127*...actually it probably was -20*...and it did say meth and dye on the lable that I do remember.
Just so that I'm explaining how this meth system works (and I really have no business explaining anything to be honest) is that there is 2 solenoids that are driven by a injector driver circuit and pressuried by the pump. As far as I know the pump doesnt vary in speed/pressure. I think the meth solenoids operate much like an injector using constant pressure and the puslewidth (for lack of a better term) is modulated by the ECM. What I'm trying to say is I dont think this system "dribbles" or "dumps" meth/water in.
But my plan of attack at this point is (in this order):
*Run another grd wire to the engine
*turn off meth/water
*tighten gaps
*replace valve springs
*change coils.
I do have a 2007 5.3 Tahoe here I could "borrow" the coils from but I doubt they would work with the 24x system I'm running - anybody???
Thanks all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!











