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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:27 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl
I think the meth solenoids operate much like an injector using constant pressure and the puslewidth (for lack of a better term) is modulated by the ECM. What I'm trying to say is I dont think this system "dribbles" or "dumps" meth/water in.

But my plan of attack at this point is (in this order):

*Run another grd wire to the engine
*turn off meth/water
*tighten gaps
*replace valve springs
*change coils.

I do have a 2007 5.3 Tahoe here I could "borrow" the coils from but I doubt they would work with the 24x system I'm running - anybody???


Thanks all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If there are solenoids that are ecu controlled, and pump is simply turned off/on, then it should be a good spray at all times.
And if the solenoids do control flow based on injector duty...that's even better. Aquamist does this.


Your plan of attack sounds good, and yes the coils can be swapped no problem. Although some brackets etc are different, but that's no big deal
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Old May 29, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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If its only -20* then its only 1/3 methanol and you're spraying a ton of water in there probably even with it being progressive. It seems like high % of water is very finicky about bogging vs running higherethanol %, especially at relatively low boost. Maybe try running only one nozzle and see if that helps.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
If there are solenoids that are ecu controlled, and pump is simply turned off/on, then it should be a good spray at all times.
And if the solenoids do control flow based on injector duty...that's even better. Aquamist does this.
Yes, ecu controls solenoids and can choose duty cycle or fuel flow modes. Here's the solenoids:











Originally Posted by Hank Peabody
If its only -20* then its only 1/3 methanol and you're spraying a ton of water in there probably even with it being progressive. It seems like high % of water is very finicky about bogging vs running higherethanol %, especially at relatively low boost. Maybe try running only one nozzle and see if that helps.

Hey - where you been
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Old May 29, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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Just to show how the water/meth injection table looks like:

Last edited by 69-chvl; Aug 20, 2014 at 09:40 AM.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Hey - where you been
Broke five pistons with a tank of bad gas last year and became

Good to see your car is on the road and doing good! Maybe try putting a few cans of yellow bottles of HEET in your methanol tank, that stuff is 100% methanol. If the water is making it bog then more methanol % should clear it up but just make it rich, will still run much better though. At least you'll know at that point and retune for it.

It seems like running an intercooler cools the air so much you cant spray as much water as guys with no intercooler.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 11:48 PM
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^this. I was told that if it's more than -20*--40* and it's not blue there are other chemicals in there and it is not the best to use, as washer fluid goes. If the issue was gone and came back when you changed fluids I would start there.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 05:39 AM
  #47  
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Yeah its not blue, its purple...so I'll look into that also. I'll just drain it actually why screw around.

Just have to wait for the wife to disappear so I can grab the coils off the Tahoe
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Old May 30, 2014 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl

But my plan of attack at this point is (in this order):

*Run another grd wire to the engine
*turn off meth/water
*tighten gaps
*replace valve springs
*change coils.

I do have a 2007 5.3 Tahoe here I could "borrow" the coils from but I doubt they would work with the 24x system I'm running - anybody???


Thanks all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All good ideas… but I’d think about changing the order. If it ran fine before you can probably rule out valve springs and coils.

Adding grounds never hurts, but I doubt it’s your problem.

*I’d turn off the meth first with no other changes and lower boost, then test.
*Then tighten spark gap and turn the meth back on at a lower percentage and slowly ramp up the amount injected at low boost and see if your problem returns.

*lastly -20 washer fluid is pretty weak sauce. Not much methanol in it at all. Stop by a your local circle track supply house or race fuel dealer and get 5 gallons of straight methanol. Then mix it 50/50 with distilled water. That alone will make a big difference. (you can also order 4 gallons of 50\50 for about $35 if you don't feel like mixing your own)

*If none of that helps coils and then springs.

Good luck!
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Old May 30, 2014 | 10:11 AM
  #49  
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If the fluid you are spraying is -20 degree fluid (they are referencing the freezing point), then chances are it's only 30-35% methanol, so by injecting as much as you are, that's a LOT of water to be injecting, and could be the primary reason you're blowing out the spark, but in reality, you're quenching the flame front.

I'm in Bucks county PA, so not too far from you if you need some help.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 10:19 AM
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Found this on the rx-7 forums...
+20 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 7% methanol.
0 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 23% methanol.
-10 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 28% methanol.
-20 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 35% methanol.
-25 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 38% methanol.
-50 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 62% methanol.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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Too much water and you CANNOT run windshield washer fluid that has de icer in it....period. Water suppresses detonation better than methanol but you are running waaaay to low a boost for that much water in it. Dump that **** completely dry before you toast that engine. The **** you are using is 100 percent of your problem. Dump it out and run straight meth with one nozzle and if it doesn't fix it I'll buy you a case of beer. It's not the ground, its not the valve springs, it's the gallons of water you are injecting at low boost and too much gap. Nothing else.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Found this on the rx-7 forums...
Yup, I found it because I'm a chemist and deal with things like that all the time in the lab lol.

Originally Posted by Wicked69
Too much water and you CANNOT run windshield washer fluid that has de icer in it....period. Water suppresses detonation better than methanol but you are running waaaay to low a boost for that much water in it. Dump that **** completely dry before you toast that engine. The **** you are using is 100 percent of your problem. Dump it out and run straight meth with one nozzle and if it doesn't fix it I'll buy you a case of beer. It's not the ground, its not the valve springs, it's the gallons of water you are injecting at low boost and too much gap. Nothing else.
Exactly on point. I never understood how guys could use windshield washer fluid. They spend thousands on a motor, thousands on a FI setup, thousands in driveline improvements yet put a $2 bottle of windshield washer fluid into their motor. Buy a case of BoostJuice for $50 (4 gallons) and you know that the ratio is right, and the quality of methanol is good, and the water is deionized and low carbon content. Granted, I make my own at work using $$$$ methanol that's ultra pure, as well as not only de-ionized water, but it's also less than 5 ppb TOC (total organic carbon). Overkill, maybe, but I may question the octane of the gas in the pump, but I know what the quality is of the stuff in the Aquamist reservoir.
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Old May 31, 2014 | 01:02 AM
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Do yourself a favor and go on vp fuels website and find a distributer of their racegas. A 5 gallon can of M1 is 50-60 bucks. The closest distributer to me is in the feasterville area, but that is far from you. I mix my own juice with m1 and distilled water, and it is cheap and consistant. Just dont try to use M3 or M5, they have additives that are not good to put through pumps used for injection.
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Old May 31, 2014 | 08:58 AM
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So I guess I should get rid of the stuff in my "meth/water" tank
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 03:08 AM
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Head spinning yet Vince?

FYI, I had no blow out issues at 15 psi and .035" gap last night. All sorts of driver issues, but the candles stayed lit.

Ron
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Head spinning yet Vince?

FYI, I had no blow out issues at 15 psi and .035" gap last night. All sorts of driver issues, but the candles stayed lit.

Ron
Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Found this on the rx-7 forums...

Yeah, head spinning a bit but's it all good....learning a lot as there is a wealth of knowledge here.


This where I'm a bit confused:

"Found this on the rx-7 forums...

+20 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 7% methanol.
0 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 23% methanol.
-10 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 28% methanol.
-20 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 35% methanol.
-25 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 38% methanol.
-50 F Washer Fluid - Contains approximately 62% methanol. "

It looks to me that the -25+ would be better right as it has a higher meth %??? What does the regular blue stuff have...I think it would have even more water content.

I think I'm going to buy straight meth and mix it as suggested at some point.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:24 AM
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Please, stop injecting washer fluid. It's cheap for a reason, there's no quality control at all and who knows what they add to it to make it better windshield washer fluid... it's meant to clean your windshield, not be injected into your engine.

Get some quality methanol, then get some DI water at the supermarket, and mix it 1:1. Trust me, your motor will thank you.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Please, stop injecting washer fluid. It's cheap for a reason, there's no quality control at all and who knows what they add to it to make it better windshield washer fluid... it's meant to clean your windshield, not be injected into your engine.

Get some quality methanol, then get some DI water at the supermarket, and mix it 1:1. Trust me, your motor will thank you.
This, if you started out using the right product this thread wouldn't exist.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironmancan
This, if you started out using the right product this thread wouldn't exist.
Not this, there is nothing wrong with running windshield washer fluid. You just have to be aware of the water/methanol content and experiment with how much your engine will take at that particular ratio. It says on the label if it contains anything other than water/methanol/dye. No one has ever hurt their engine with that.
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 08:56 AM
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Guess its easier maybe just to buy some Boost Juice rather than mix the stuff? I dont know what the shelf life of a can of M1 is.
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