Good to know... I was hoping it'd be that easy.

 

So the 2 tan wires go to either wire on a 2 wire gm open element iat? How does it grounded?

The lt1 cable slipped right in the slot but the hole for the tit is on the wrong side. So had to drill a hole for that. The cruise slot is too small and too thick. The truck flange is thinner. I ground that half slightly thinner and drilled a 1/2" hole through the slot.

 

Does anybody have a single plug versafueler? I can't find any instructions for it. Is there an input and output for the same colored wires?

 

Not sure what a "single plug" version is... Assuming this doesn't help?

http://www.acceleronics.com/instructions.htm

 

Yeah, saw that. Thanks. But that has 2 plugs for input and output. Mine only has one.



I have the pigtail.
1 red for hot start/run
1 black for ground

Then 8 sets of 2 of the same colored wires.

I am guessing input and output doesn't matter?

Texted acceleronics, waiting to hear back.

 

And does anybody know if I can get a pigtail for the 03 dbc cruise module?

 

Getting closer. Got tons of time in the wiring harness...Now that I half *** think I know what I am doing, the next one should go way faster.

Got a bunch of ac questions. Should I ask those here or post in another forum?

 

Hahaha... a lot of people can relate to the "the next one will go a lot faster" comment.

You'll get more help with the AC from the hybrids section, but there are already several threads that will probably answer your questions.

Post up some progress pics of the Crapice.

 

No real progress to look at, although stuff is getting done. I had the wiring done once. Tried to do it with the least cutting, extending, shortening possible. It looked like a curled pile of racoon poo on top of the intake. So the next day I took it back of and started cutting. Prob 75 solder joints. But looks way better.

Still have to add in the wires and sensors for factory gauges. Oh and almost forgot about a tach wire. My green 10 is empty, so I am assuming that it will either work or can be activated via tuning.

I had the passenger side coil pack mounted on the fenderwell because the heater core tubes were tight to it. But then I found a factory ac accumulator bracket. So put coils back on the valve cover, cut one of the heater core tubes back towards the firewall, found some super tight 90 hoses @ the parts stores, and it will work. But now I have to relengthen the coil plug wires, lol.

Next time I am just going to pull all the pins out of the pcm connectors and start from scratch. That is about what I ended up doing anyways.

I got the ac figured out mostly. I didn't have a factory condenser, so bought a 14x25 parallel flow off ebay. The way its mounted, it is about 2.5" off the radiator. Then I start reading that it needs to be tight as possible to the radiator so the radiator has good air flow with no turbulence. But I am putting a HUGE 4.5" core intercooler in front of all of that, which would be pretty tight to the condenser where it is mounted now. So not sure what I am going to do about that, but need to get it figured out for the weekend.



I need to cut the top tank off and make a single outlet.

The garage has since been cleaned and the car is in there now, lol. The truck don't fit. Pulling diesel v8's on gravel driveways sucks!

 

Looking good... in a crappy kind of way. Haha. I'll be interested in seeing your IC setup.

 

Dropped the tank today. Thought I could get a 5/8 bulkhead fitting on the back of the tank. No way I can reach back there to get it tightened. So I came up with this. Any reason it won't work? I have 80% of the fittings to do it. The return into the fuel cell would keep it full, and the return from the top side of the fuel cell would keep it from overfilling. Should work?

 

As for the fuel system, somebody recommended to tap the plastic tank for an npt to an fitting instead of the bulkhead fitting. So I am going to give that a try with some ethanol safe sealant instead of a fuel cell in the trunk.

Free eibach lowering springs to good home.


Got the cutout and 2" pipe tacked in. It was a section of downpipe from a diesel project.




I may have to rotate the cutout. The car is on jackstands and suspension at full droop and not sure how far the sway bar is going to come down when on its own weight and then fully bottomed out.



Got the top intercooler tank cut off and the bottom mounted.


Bent some .090 aluminum I had. A 2x6 with rounded corners works perfect with a 4" silicone coupler. I am gonna get some 1.5 aluminum pipe, cut it in half, and use more of the .090 sheet to make the same shape. It will fit under the hood with some trimming to the bottom.

 

I see you're running the stock LT1 radiator w/no fill cap. What do you plan to do for a coolant surge/overflow tank or coolant fill area?

 

Funny you ask. Only started looking into options this morning before work. Got any ideas?

Do you know what size the stock fuel pump is? I ended up having to get a new assembly because this one was so crusty and wires were burnt. I was wondering if there was a drop in upgrade that would work with the stock gauge wiring. The fuel pump that is in there now supported 312 on a mustang dyno, so it's not exactly weak. But since I'm in there...

 

Damn... I was hoping you had an easy solution to the surge/overflow tank situation. I just started looking into it as well.

When I was first planning to do cam only 6.0 I looked into the specs of the stock pump, and it is fine for that level of build/fuel pressure requirements, but any more and you'll definitely want a bigger pump. I haven't decided yet if I'll do a single 340 or dual 255's... most likely the dual setup for room to expand down the road with E85.

 

I am still trying to figure out the cooling system plumbing. I found this diagram somewhere.



And I bought this tank because it was pretty cheap.


There is no good place to mount it, it's too tall. (40 shipped if anyone wants it.)
So now I am looking at this one from canton.


I can mount it in front of the wiper motor above the heater core. As far as the diagram goes, the factory 9c1 radiator does not have a vent fitting. So would I plumb it like the diagram except put the steam tube into the side of the canton tank only?

 

You would want to run the steam vent to the expansion tank regardless. Ideally when running an expansion tank the radiator is a sealed unit

 

OK cool. And what psi cap then? 15? Unvented?

I guess I can cut the tank I have down. What volume does a pressure tank need to be? It is 1.25 quarts now, I would need to cut probably 4" out of it.

 

I'm running a 16lb on my expansion tank and a 24lb on my radiator (goal is to never have the radiator cap open)

I didn't do my research from the get go and should have had a sealed radiator. As far as the math regarding properly sized expansion tank goes I couldn't tell you specifically. Mine personally is a smaller sized unit that rick@howe racing recommended. As you can see it isn't massive.







http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=621363

You should read through this thread if you haven't already. There is a TON of good info here.

 

I like that horizontal tank...

How do you think this would work as a trans cooler? Bypass the radiator completely? I already have this cooler.
http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-...er-p-1112.html

What about oil cooler?