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Am I getting valve float? Dyno sheets inside

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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 03:17 AM
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Default Am I getting valve float? Dyno sheets inside

Just got the car on a dyno today and was very disappointed. After talking with a few turbo buddies it looks like I may have valve float going on. Figured I'd get some opinions on here.

My setup:

-5.3
-317's
-LS6 cam
-LS6 yellow valve springs (bought used)
-T76 @ 15 psi
-alky control meth injection

The car basically made power up to 5200 rpm and then flatlined and the chart from that point on looks like a seismograph during an earthquake. That was even with the smoothing set to 5. Def thinking valve float. I logged the pulls and there was no issue there. Held a steady 14* timing through the pull with no knock, and everything else looked pretty good.

I also included my dyno chart when I was still on 11 psi for comparison purposes. If you note, I made 485 rwhp on 11 lbs at 5200 rpm, and almost 560 rwhp on 15 lbs at the same rpm, but then the power flatlines. Picked up considerable torque over the last dyno as well. 580 lbs ft as opposed to 522 lbs ft. The car should have been well over 600 rwhp. Just trying to get it straightened out, so any ideas are appreciated!
Attached Thumbnails Am I getting valve float? Dyno sheets inside-dsc03871.jpg   Am I getting valve float? Dyno sheets inside-dsc03365.jpg  
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 08:01 AM
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Should've never made a second pull on that engine after looking at that graph.
The shop you are using apparently wasn't competent enough to recognize this.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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Why are you using stock shitty valve springs? Brian Tooley dual springs with tool steel retainers are cheap and work well. Hell, I've got a set of brand new Comp 918's sitting on my shelf you can have for the price of shipping. Most people don't trust them anymore and if money is a concern for you, you can have them. What pushrods are you using? Get some BTR or Comp 5/16 .080" at a minumum. I've got some used Comp .080" wall 7.4's and 7.375's if you want to buy a set from me for $40.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk441
Should've never made a second pull on that engine after looking at that graph.
The shop you are using apparently wasn't competent enough to recognize this.
I've had issues with this shop in the past, but a few buddies were going because they were having a dyno day. Honestly, they were real cool and great with getting cars on and strapping them down, but I was pretty surprised nobody even mentioned anything about the way the pull looked...

Originally Posted by TurboAv
Why are you using stock shitty valve springs? Brian Tooley dual springs with tool steel retainers are cheap and work well. Hell, I've got a set of brand new Comp 918's sitting on my shelf you can have for the price of shipping. Most people don't trust them anymore and if money is a concern for you, you can have them. What pushrods are you using? Get some BTR or Comp 5/16 .080" at a minumum. I've got some used Comp .080" wall 7.4's and 7.375's if you want to buy a set from me for $40.
Money is no concern to me at this point after what I've sunk into a third gen lol. Honestly, the only reason I was on LS6 valve springs was because it's so back and forth on what people claim they'll handle for boost, so I cranked it up not thinking much about it. The car seemed to pull decently smooth, although I could feel the big torque hit down low, and then the car seemed like it almost didn't pull any harder up top than when I was at 11 lbs. I'm on stock pushrods as well at the moment. I just turned it up to 15 psi literally 2 weeks ago, and most of the time it's been in the garage due to rain. Never noticed any running issues, just the low power really surprised me on the dyno.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Just get you some BTR's with the tool steel retainers and good pushrods. You could just try the pushrods first. They might be deflecting enough to cause that. Since pushrods are easy to do, that's what I would do first. Cheaper also.

If you do need 7.375 or 7.400 pushrods then the $40 offer still stands for my Comp .080" wall pushrods. Or just buy new BTR's. They are only $100 if I remember right.

What lifters do your have? You could try setting them with less preload as well when you measure for new pushrods.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboAv
Just get you some BTR's with the tool steel retainers and good pushrods. You could just try the pushrods first. They might be deflecting enough to cause that. Since pushrods are easy to do, that's what I would do first. Cheaper also.

If you do need 7.375 or 7.400 pushrods then the $40 offer still stands for my Comp .080" wall pushrods. Or just buy new BTR's. They are only $100 if I remember right.

What lifters do your have? You could try setting them with less preload as well when you measure for new pushrods.
Honestly, springs are easy enough to do on the car so I'd probably do that at the same time. I'm interested in the pushrods too. Are they new? I'll take the 7.4" ones. Shoot me a PM for them shipped to 06078 along with your paypal info. Thanks a lot man. I'll end up ordering BTR springs and probably the trunion upgrade as well.

As for lifters, I'm on stock ones but I really don't think thats my issue. The motors only a 40K mile 5.3 so they should be very healthy still. Lots of guys push the stock lifters to 18-20 psi without issue.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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The 7.4's are used. It would be only another $60 to get brand new BTR pushrods. May as well do that.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboAv
The 7.4's are used. It would be only another $60 to get brand new BTR pushrods. May as well do that.
Thats not too much of a difference. I'll do that then. Anyways, thanks a bunch for all the help man.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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Hey, John. Why is your Corvette so dirty?
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SM105K
Hey, John. Why is your Corvette so dirty?
Shut your pie hole Easton, lmao.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by NightmareTA
Thats not too much of a difference. I'll do that then. Anyways, thanks a bunch for all the help man.
No problem dude.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboAv
Shut your pie hole Easton, lmao.
Hahaha, your car sounded good leaving Sat night.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SM105K
Hahaha, your car sounded good leaving Sat night.
Thanks! We'll have to do a run when I get off my *** and put drag radials on.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 06:24 AM
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The lines are wavy even in the 4000 rpm ranges - think springs are an issue even at that low an rpm???
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboAv
Thanks! We'll have to do a run when I get off my *** and put drag radials on.
Sweet, I will lose to another car. No shame. I am dying to take my drag radials off, and see how long of a burn out I can roll with my regular street tires.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SM105K
Sweet, I will lose to another car. No shame. I am dying to take my drag radials off, and see how long of a burn out I can roll with my regular street tires.
I've got a manual trans and you have a glide. You will probably get me from a dig.
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