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Anyone broken an ARP head stud?

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Old 07-21-2014, 02:08 PM
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Default Anyone broken an ARP head stud?

Has anyone broken an ARP head stud? And if so, did you just replace the broken 1, or did you order a whole new kit? Is the failure usually random, or related to batches?

I had a stud break during a rebuild but the rest were fine. Studs were torqued once for the original build in early '13, then once again on this rebuild just a few days ago. Purchased new from Hinson Supercars October 2012.

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Old 07-21-2014, 02:35 PM
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I would definitely think that it is a random failure. Come to think of it your broken stud may be the only one I have ever seen.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:02 PM
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I broke an ARP head stud when torquing them up on my Mini 20 years ago.

Broke very similar, just flush with the block at the base of the threads. Have seen it happen with other's before too.

Not overly common, but any is too many
Old 07-21-2014, 06:16 PM
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Never broken any (thus far).
Old 07-22-2014, 05:38 AM
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Were you using their paste like lube for torquing their fasteners?

Or just some motor oil etc.

That perma torque stuff they developed is supposed to be good ****. Used it on my china studs to 80lbs no issue haha.
Old 07-22-2014, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 95bowtie
Were you using their paste like lube for torquing their fasteners?

Or just some motor oil etc.

That perma torque stuff they developed is supposed to be good ****. Used it on my china studs to 80lbs no issue haha.
yup, I had their lube they specified.

I called ARP and they basically said tough ****, you probably did some thing wrong either on the torque spec or not threading them down till the bottomed out. I know they bottomed out because the block was new and the threads were clean, and I know that the torque spec was set exactly at what they recommend in their latest instructions. The only useful thing he said was to look for hour glassing on the other studs and run a nut up and down the threads to see if it binds anywhere from deformed threads.
Old 07-22-2014, 09:58 AM
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I have only seen one and it was due to the machine shop torquing it in the block instead of hand tight.
Old 07-22-2014, 12:41 PM
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thats crazy that they told you that but you can order just that one stud. just ask them for the part number
Old 07-22-2014, 12:44 PM
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Id ask for a darn refund.

Did you torque it by hand?
Old 07-22-2014, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LSjim
thats crazy that they told you that but you can order just that one stud. just ask them for the part number
Yea, that's the route I went, $20 for a single stud.
Old 07-22-2014, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackpanther99
Id ask for a darn refund.

Did you torque it by hand?
Yup, with a mid-level quality torque wrench the first build, with a snap on wrench the 2nd build.
Old 07-22-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by turbotuner20v
Yup, with a mid-level quality torque wrench the first build, with a snap on wrench the 2nd build.
Wtf, that wasnt supposed to happen at all. Ive seen this happen but when they are torqued by a machine. Even still, its rare.
Old 07-22-2014, 11:33 PM
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Failures happen. You can't really expect a refund on a used part that wasn't torqued with a calibrated torque wrench. I bet money that those torque wrenches have never seen a calibration except from factory.

Inspect the other studs then order the replacement.
Old 07-25-2014, 04:42 AM
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Are you using 1/2 studs
Old 07-25-2014, 06:29 AM
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Yes I've had this happen, and it's usually because the stud bottomed out in the hole. A reputable machine shop in my area mentioned to me that they bottom them all out, then back them all off a thread.

Mine broke in the exact spot. ARP will not assume liability, as they didn't with me either.
Old 07-25-2014, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by js2fst
Are you using 1/2 studs
No, the standard size
Old 07-25-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hardbodeez
Yes I've had this happen, and it's usually because the stud bottomed out in the hole. A reputable machine shop in my area mentioned to me that they bottom them all out, then back them all off a thread.

Mine broke in the exact spot. ARP will not assume liability, as they didn't with me either.
They're actually supposed to be bottomed out finger tight in a clean hole. The guy I talked to mentioned not bottoming them out could cause additional stress and the break.



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