5.3 Turbo Build
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I would go down to a 3.23-3.73 and choose tire size accordingly. 275 wide on street tires or 10.5 on slicks are great for those.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Elkhart, IN
Okay so I've also been looking into turbo headers. I found these but want to know what you guys think. I know most use the truck manifolds. Is there any downside to not using them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181550085463
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181550085463
Okay so I've also been looking into turbo headers. I found these but want to know what you guys think. I know most use the truck manifolds. Is there any downside to not using them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181550085463
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181550085463
Most OEM manifolds are very thick cast iron and not prone to crack. Some are SS as well and are stout pieces as well. I prefer the SS OEM manifolds.
Truck mani's will outflow anything that motor would ever make from what I have heard.
I am using Forward truck mani's. I notched the K-memeber on the passenger side but you can modify the mani to clear depending on turbo location. I needed the space bc the placement I chose. Drivers side I didnt have to notch at all.
Here are a few pics of mine that im in the middle of making. (hot side isnt done obviously)
Jay
Also to add. I preheated the mani's where I was welding with a map torch, then cooled them in sand. Did about one inch at a time. However my buddy is going on 2 seasons and just migged his no heating etc. I welded mine with a Lincoln 110v Mig welder. Using S-6 Mild steel wire. And used 14awg Aluminized Mild tubing
I am using Forward truck mani's. I notched the K-memeber on the passenger side but you can modify the mani to clear depending on turbo location. I needed the space bc the placement I chose. Drivers side I didnt have to notch at all.
Here are a few pics of mine that im in the middle of making. (hot side isnt done obviously)
Jay
Also to add. I preheated the mani's where I was welding with a map torch, then cooled them in sand. Did about one inch at a time. However my buddy is going on 2 seasons and just migged his no heating etc. I welded mine with a Lincoln 110v Mig welder. Using S-6 Mild steel wire. And used 14awg Aluminized Mild tubing
Any reason for electric? I think they are all like 500+. I debated going to an electric on my last setup but couldnt justify the cost over gain with not even saving space.
Jay
Jay
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Verdad Gallardo Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
Stay away from the electric water pump. You'll be paying $350 for just a slightly cleaner look and reduced efficiency. It takes some planning to get an electric pump to cool properly in a street car. I'd really only use them in a drag car to help cool down between passes.
You're starting to overthink this. Thats the worst mistake you can make.
You're starting to overthink this. Thats the worst mistake you can make.
I ran those aluminum Ebay ones before since I thought he stock ones were ugly. But honestly after you bolt the coil packs on you don't really notice them that much.. Assuming you are not relocating them. If I were to relocate them I would for sure get the CHEVROLET ones. I think those are nice.
Jay
Jay
Priced per cover. i think they are a nice touch though. There are a few different versions.
Jay
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...34398/10002/-1
Jay
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...34398/10002/-1
