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Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside

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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 01:02 PM
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Default Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside

I just wanted to give everyone a little heads up here. I purchased an Emusa gate after the generally positive reviews found here and on other sites. I know the cheap knock off vs Tial/Precision/etc debate is often heated, and I figured for the $75 or so, what the hell, I'll try the knock off. I am not angry or anything that I did, I wanted to see how it would hold up.

This wastegate has been on my truck for 2 years. My truck sees all weather. The exhaust from the gate is recirculated, so neither end is open to the elements.

Lately I've noticed some odd boost control issues. Occasional slow spool, boost targets all over the place, just something not making sense. I pulled the gate off an inspected.

With the spring completely removed, the valve does not budge, not easily at least. Notice the corrosion and rust and flaking metal. I imagine the valve has gotten stuck in various positions as it was sometimes seizing, causing my weird issues. I also feels it's important to note that I've been running E85 for much of those 2 years.

Look at the pics and judge for yourself. I however will not be using another knock off waste gate.

Thanks!
Adam
Attached Thumbnails Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside-imag0376.jpg   Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside-imag0377.jpg   Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside-imag0378.jpg   Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside-imag0379.jpg   Emusa Waste Gate Failure - Pics Inside-imag0380.jpg  

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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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oddly enough i would actually still consider that a success. Two years life out of a $70 wastegate is pretty good imo.

You could get another and and get a total of 4 years and still be half the price of name brand.

How long does a quality waste gate last usually?


Im actually not a fan of emusa I personally used the tial replica one and with good success.
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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I've had Tials and Precisions both in the past and they've lasted over 5 years and are probably still going (sold the vehicles).

For the price I would say 2 years isn't terrible, but the real problem would be if it were to seize shut. I was lucky in that it was getting stuck open. Sticking shut could take out a motor in a hurry.
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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I n
Originally Posted by HydroStream6
I've had Tials and Precisions both in the past they've lasted over 5 years and are probably still going (sold the vehicles).

For the price I would say 2 years isn't terrible, but the real problem would be if it were to seize shut. I was lucky in that it was getting stuck open. Sticking shut could take out a motor in a hurry.
I always run a boost switch to activate a light if it should boost past my set psi.

I usually set it above 5psi higher as I've had setup before that would creep but settle back down.

Spend a few bucks and have these warning lights so you'll know to step off should it come on.

Extra $50 max can end up saving you thousands literally.

I added this after I got a scare when I had broken the T on my wastegate hose. I guess I accidentally broke it /smashed it or something when I was working on the car and not realized it until test drive.
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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I have the same problem right now with the emusa went to re dyno tune on the new setup. my car and it was laggy as hell and would make low hp numbers. I bench tested the waste gate as soon as any pressure was put to it. It would dump it out the dump tube. And same as the bov it was not holding any psi. Would leak threw the fitting. But worked go got almost 2 years also running e85
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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I agree, I would just buy another one.
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 10:16 PM
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It is actually exposed to the elements every time you drive it. There is water from condensation as it warms up as well as water in the exhaust.
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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lol at just buy another one
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by turningfast
It is actually exposed to the elements every time you drive it. There is water from condensation as it warms up as well as water in the exhaust.
I was referring to salt/dirt/debris.
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 01:20 PM
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Good thing I decided against running the Ebay WG and picked up a JGS.
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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ve had mixed results with the Tial gates. I had one last several years, and then another one last 3 months before I replaced it with one that lasted 9 months.

2 year's on a 70 dollar gate that didn't cause any engine failures when it went out is a success story, especially in all-weather conditions.
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 09:43 AM
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I always considered it basic maintenance to pop the gate off and check the shaft and operation every year or so. The more moisture and carbon in your exhaust the worse off it will be. Burning E85 I see very little carbon. Anytime my gate is off I brush on some of that high temp nickle moly lube on the shaft. It seems to hold up well and keep everything happy. Never seen a valve shaft look like the OP's. Was that listed as a SS valve in the WG?
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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I always considered it basic maintenance to pop the gate off and check the shaft and operation every year or so. The more moisture and carbon in your exhaust the worse off it will be. Burning E85 I see very little carbon. Anytime my gate is off I brush on some of that high temp nickle moly lube on the shaft. It seems to hold up well and keep everything happy. Never seen a valve shaft look like the OP's. Was that listed as a SS valve in the WG?
I use race gas at the track and also have iron truck manifolds. Both of those together (I believe) can cause a buildup of material along the valve shafts. I ran into a situation in which mine were stuck closed and therefore went into a critical over-boost situation. So now I take them apart every season and test them prior to running the car. I take compressed air and verify that they open and close.

Here's some pictures of them. They are verified true TiAL wastegate's and still had the problem after 3 years of use. When I'm in a hurry and want to test them quickly on the street I simply turn my boost controller down to the spring pressure (10PSI) and make sure it doesn't go above that on my gauges.





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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I always considered it basic maintenance to pop the gate off and check the shaft and operation every year or so. The more moisture and carbon in your exhaust the worse off it will be. Burning E85 I see very little carbon. Anytime my gate is off I brush on some of that high temp nickle moly lube on the shaft. It seems to hold up well and keep everything happy. Never seen a valve shaft look like the OP's. Was that listed as a SS valve in the WG?
What is requires to get the valve out? I have changed springs, but have never taken the valve out.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
What is requires to get the valve out? I have changed springs, but have never taken the valve out.
It's simple. Just a few small screws. It comes apart very easy. I had one of my EMUSA gates stick open (thankfully not closed) on the dyno. We took it apart, lubed it up, and I never had another problem.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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Mine had 3 set screws at the top of the diaphragm retainer. Once these are loosened the valve drops right out. Make to use some sort of high temp grease, or it won't last long.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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Any particular recommendations on grease? Arp lube maybe?
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
Any particular recommendations on grease? Arp lube maybe?
Molylube 65 high temp grease is nice. (good to 600* or so). But any high temp lube is probably fine. I used some expired high nickel content molylube we use on aircraft thrust reversers. I don’t even know the specification. Nothing in the exhaust stream will hold up anyway. It’s just to help with moisture and lubrication on the upper shaft housing.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 11:09 AM
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Turbosmart also makes good gates. I usually use Tial or Turbosmart and haven't had any issues with my builds. It's very lucky the gate didn't get stuck shut!
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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I use Permatex Nickel anti-seize on mine. Seemed to work fine for me.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail

The only reason I used this was that it said stainless on it to be honest. Also it's for high heat and pressure applications. I also had someone folks tell me never to use anti-seize on wastegates but I did it anyway. LOL.....again it seems to solve the issue for me. I still test everything before going crazy. Motors are too expensive to make a mistake with.
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