4.5L Whipple LS Drag Week project.
I was curious what the MPG will be as my Drag Week car was close except for the cent instead of screw. I ran 29 inch tire/4.30 combo and my converter went 65-6800rpm at the bottom of the gear. Mine drove fine but 12mpg was my average, with best mpg with intercooler off so the inlet air temp was up.
Kurt
Kurt
Thanks, Kurt. I didn't do much testing big the bigger sissy pulley after I found out how much boost it made. After I got it running it went straight to the track for tuning and testing. Then straight back to the shop for the smallest pulley I could get and a new converter. It should come alive now but I still think a cam swap is in my future... but I'll wait on that for the new motor. As for RPM at 70, I'll check that the next time I take it for a spin around town and report back. It should not be very high with a 3.73 rear gear and a 28" tall tire. Or I guess I could calculate it and see what my converter slip is going to be. But I don't think there will be a lot of that... It's a pretty tight Neal Chance converter but nothing like the last one I had in there.
I was curious what the MPG will be as my Drag Week car was close except for the cent instead of screw. I ran 29 inch tire/4.30 combo and my converter went 65-6800rpm at the bottom of the gear. Mine drove fine but 12mpg was my average, with best mpg with intercooler off so the inlet air temp was up.
Kurt
Kurt
Well I did take it to the track yesterday but I didn’t get anything done. I had some battery charging problems and my off idle tune was way off so I called it a night. But I’ll get it all sorted out and back out there in two weeks.
That looks to be the F-Body belt line?
What would be the difference with the Y-Body belt line,, closer to the timing cover for the accessory drive?
Does the Whipple belt stay in the same location?
Got a dry sump to run with a 28T gilmer style pulley, that goes behind the balancer on the crank hub. Trying to figure out the accessory drive for alt. and W.P. - simple and easiest.
What controller are you running on the car?
What would be the difference with the Y-Body belt line,, closer to the timing cover for the accessory drive?
Does the Whipple belt stay in the same location?
Got a dry sump to run with a 28T gilmer style pulley, that goes behind the balancer on the crank hub. Trying to figure out the accessory drive for alt. and W.P. - simple and easiest.
What controller are you running on the car?
Last edited by helicoil; Feb 21, 2015 at 11:29 AM.
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That looks to be the F-Body belt line?
What would be the difference with the Y-Body belt line,, closer to the timing cover for the accessory drive?
Does the Whipple belt stay in the same location?
Got a dry sump to run with a 28T gilmer style pulley, that goes behind the balancer on the crank hub. Trying to figure out the accessory drive for alt. and W.P. - simple and easiest.
What controller are you running on the car?
What would be the difference with the Y-Body belt line,, closer to the timing cover for the accessory drive?
Does the Whipple belt stay in the same location?
Got a dry sump to run with a 28T gilmer style pulley, that goes behind the balancer on the crank hub. Trying to figure out the accessory drive for alt. and W.P. - simple and easiest.
What controller are you running on the car?
Go 12 rib, simple, easy, works. Dry sump is the best for sure. Holley dominator efi system.
is there any product information on this blower at all? i can't find much of anything on this anywhere. is a 6 bolt block mandatory for this blower for lower boost situations?
If you don't have a 6 bolt block save yourself some money at get the 4.0L kit. It's a wicked blower too.
OK. I would like a reliable 8 second stick shift car that's repeatable. I got the repeatable part down, but am now looking for ways to add power. The car went 9.9x's @ 135 on motor alone last year. I'm a slow buyer, but I like to read everything I can about something so I don't spend good money after bad to finish a project up. Thanks for the info!
