Twin turbo oil temps/hot idle pressure
07-22-2015, 04:52 PM
#41
So u aren't running a thermostat but u do have the block recirculation port plugged?
Most dont realize most thermostats are 2 valves in one assembly. As it is opening it is at the same time shuttting block recirculation. To the pump.
If someone just pulls out the tstat and doesnt block that port they kill the system
Most dont realize most thermostats are 2 valves in one assembly. As it is opening it is at the same time shuttting block recirculation. To the pump.
If someone just pulls out the tstat and doesnt block that port they kill the system
07-22-2015, 05:03 PM
#42
9 Second Club
Good point.
besides, stats are cheap, they work. They help the engine warm up quicker, which helps oil warm up quicker.
I cant actually think of any reason you wouldnt want one in there.
besides, stats are cheap, they work. They help the engine warm up quicker, which helps oil warm up quicker.
I cant actually think of any reason you wouldnt want one in there.
07-23-2015, 07:26 AM
#45
Just some comparison info for you, whatever it's worth: I have twin 6165's right up against the radiator. I run a dual pass griffin rad stood up with two derale pusher fans and a 160* stat. Stock water pump, distilled water & watter wetter for coolant. Oil pump is a ported ls6, no oil cooler. I run down the highway in 100*F ambient temps at 175* water temp no matter how hard I'm beating on it. In traffic I have yet to hit 200* with both fans running. Oil temps hover around 200 just cruising, but will rise to 225ish after a beating and will generally not cool down much lower than 220 for the rest of the trip. This is with rotella 5w40 syn. Hot idle pressure is 35ish, cruise is 45psi and WOT is 60-70psi.
07-23-2015, 07:34 AM
#46
Just some comparison info for you, whatever it's worth: I have twin 6165's right up against the radiator. I run a dual pass griffin rad stood up with two derale pusher fans and a 160* stat. Stock water pump, distilled water & watter wetter for coolant. Oil pump is a ported ls6, no oil cooler. I run down the highway in 100*F ambient temps at 175* water temp no matter how hard I'm beating on it. In traffic I have yet to hit 200* with both fans running. Oil temps hover around 200 just cruising, but will rise to 225ish after a beating and will generally not cool down much lower than 220 for the rest of the trip. This is with rotella 5w40 syn. Hot idle pressure is 35ish, cruise is 45psi and WOT is 60-70psi.
Life goals.. The fact that you can keep your car cool has everything to do with you oil temps staying in check while cruising normally. The problem with oil temps as you eluded too is that they don't drop rapidly AT ALL and the problem continues to get worse the more you beat on the car.. I ordered a 20,000GVWR cooler and fan to hang out in the fender well being controlled by the Holley dominator so i imagine no matteer how hard i beat on it the temps will stay in check
Last edited by oscs; 07-23-2015 at 08:01 AM.
07-23-2015, 07:49 AM
#48
Pressures are going to vary by clearance and pump setup. There can be large variances in pressure just from clearances used
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil temps, like stevie said the oil mirrors coolant trends. If you get the coolant inline, oil will follow
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil temps, like stevie said the oil mirrors coolant trends. If you get the coolant inline, oil will follow
07-23-2015, 08:03 AM
#49
Pressures are going to vary by clearance and pump setup. There can be large variances in pressure just from clearances used
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil temps, like stevie said the oil mirrors coolant trends. If you get the coolant inline, oil will follow
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil temps, like stevie said the oil mirrors coolant trends. If you get the coolant inline, oil will follow
07-23-2015, 08:30 AM
#50
Life goals.. The fact that you can keep your car cool has everything to do with you oil temps staying in check while cruising normally. The problem with oil temps as you eluded too is that they don't drop rapidly AT ALL and the problem continues to get worse the more you beat on the car.. I ordered a 20,000GVWR cooler and fan to hang out in the fender well being controlled by the Holley dominator so i imagine no matteer how hard i beat on it the temps will stay in check
07-23-2015, 08:47 AM
#51
I've had many drivetrain setups in the car and the dual pass radiator has helped overall cooling more than anything. My oil pressure/temps are pretty much the same now as when the car was high compression & nitrous, but it never ran this cool with bigger single pass radiators and factory puller fans. I think if you get your water temps in line you'll be golden. The oil cooler will definitely help too.
07-23-2015, 09:08 AM
#52
Pressures are going to vary by clearance and pump setup. There can be large variances in pressure just from clearances used
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil temps, like stevie said the oil mirrors coolant trends. If you get the coolant inline, oil will follow
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil temps, like stevie said the oil mirrors coolant trends. If you get the coolant inline, oil will follow
07-23-2015, 10:23 AM
#56
Give a rundown of the cooling system and pic of the way things are layed out
Biggest thing people over look is behind the radiator and what pressures are like in the engine bay. Can focus as much as you want on ducting a whatnot into the radiator but if you have high pressure behind the radiator because air can't evacuate. Then it chops your flow across the core way down
Need to get the biggest pressure delta from infront of the radiator to behind it as possible
07-23-2015, 10:42 AM
#57
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I gained about 10 psi in hot idle pressure after switching from 10w-30 to a 10w-40. I used to run 15w-40 diesel oil as well and saw similar results over same brands synthetic 10w-30.
Oil cooler on rad temps stay about same as motor water temps 190-210
Oil cooler on rad temps stay about same as motor water temps 190-210
07-23-2015, 10:57 AM
#58
Plenty of avenues for air to escape (fenders have massive holes in them and the rear of the hood closest to the fire wall have vents for this exact purpose. I'm honestly surprised it doesnt cool down well on the roll. Yes i have a big 3" IC and 30K BTU cooler in front of the radiator but the opening on the front of my car is MASSIVE. With some clever sheet metal aluminum channeling i think i can help this situation. Closing off the gap between the top and bottom of the radiator/inter cooler will help a lot but my inter cooler is a funky shape so it wont be as easy as it sounds.
This video gives you a slight look at the setup. Although the topic I'm discussing is of a different nature.
This video gives you a slight look at the setup. Although the topic I'm discussing is of a different nature.
07-23-2015, 01:21 PM
#59
9 Second Club
Definitely try and seal around the sides of the rad, and also above if you can.
I have a bigger IC in front of mine, but I'd see nowhere near the ambient temps you'd get over there.
Under pretty much all occasions I have very good control over water temps, havent seen oil temps get bad either
That said, hopefully I can do some racing this weekend, which if weather stays dry will be one of the hotter places I'd be
I have a bigger IC in front of mine, but I'd see nowhere near the ambient temps you'd get over there.
Under pretty much all occasions I have very good control over water temps, havent seen oil temps get bad either
That said, hopefully I can do some racing this weekend, which if weather stays dry will be one of the hotter places I'd be
07-23-2015, 01:30 PM
#60
The vents near the rear probably hurt. The cowl area is high pressure. It transitions into low pressure as u move ahead, and very low pressure farther toward the front
This is an fc but will still be similar
This is an fc but will still be similar
