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Interesting test here, albeit at lower than sensible temperatures for a road car. More aimed at coolant temp than oil temp.
But from a power perspective, it's certainly clear you dont want the engine running anywhere near 200degF, nevermind over it !
And cooler engine temps will resolve any excessive oil temps too
Interesting test here, albeit at lower than sensible temperatures for a road car. More aimed at coolant temp than oil temp.
But from a power perspective, it's certainly clear you dont want the engine running anywhere near 200degF, nevermind over it !
And cooler engine temps will resolve any excessive oil temps too
Here's an old pic of the front end with the FMIC. Only difference now is there is now a 8" gap between the inner edge of the bumper to the radiator, but otherwise unobstructed. There are gaps on both sides which is my plan to fix this week with ducting to box it in.
I find it very odd that you are having such a hard time keeping your car cool. i think you will benefit hugely from some clever ducting on the top/bottom/sides of the inter cooler and radiator. I have seen massive temp swings on the S30 chassis from this.
Again 200* for an LS motor is not a serious problem.. could it be lower? Yes but i wouldnt worry for even a second about 200* operating temps.
Just because it wont do damage, just because you can, doesnt mean it is beneficial in any way to run so hot.
Running in the 160-170deg range has always been known to make more power, offer better resistance to detonation, and the cooler temps will help keep oil temps down.
The article does test from 165 to 130...that is a stretch though. I wouldnt want mine running as cold as that. But certainly in the 160-180deg range seems ideal.
I cant see any reason you'd want it to run hotter.
Just because it wont do damage, just because you can, doesnt mean it is beneficial in any way to run so hot.
Running in the 160-170deg range has always been known to make more power, offer better resistance to detonation, and the cooler temps will help keep oil temps down.
The article does test from 165 to 130...that is a stretch though. I wouldnt want mine running as cold as that. But certainly in the 160-180deg range seems ideal.
I cant see any reason you'd want it to run hotter.
I never run at 200deg or higher, and I've never had any issue with moisture in the oil, and I live in a cooler and wetter environment where condensation is prevalent, especially in the crankcase breather.
Never has the oil exhibited any signs of an issue with water content
But yes, that is one potential reason against vs the many for running cooler temps
Again 200* for an LS motor is not a serious problem.. could it be lower? Yes but i wouldnt worry for even a second about 200* operating temps.
I agree. I worry about just cruising around with temps never dropping below 200. Just cruising, no boost pulls. Boosting would cause that to jump quickly
Originally Posted by oscs
I find it very odd that you are having such a hard time keeping your car cool. i think you will benefit hugely from some clever ducting on the top/bottom/sides of the inter cooler and radiator. I have seen massive temp swings on the S30 chassis from this.
it's very odd. I've been chasing it for over a year. it could be multiple things that i'm trying to chase down and keep me running in circles.
I agree. I worry about just cruising around with temps never dropping below 200. Just cruising, no boost pulls. Boosting would cause that to jump quickly
it's very odd. I've been chasing it for over a year. it could be multiple things that i'm trying to chase down and keep me running in circles.
Expansion tank and ducting/air flow promotion if you ask me
So lets get some hard facts here. I just finished up a Huron Speed V1 AC kit on my 02 SS street car/DD and noticed it runs a little hotter. I have a 160 stat in it and dual Derale's mounted to the front of my condenser. If I putt around on a 90+ degree day w/ AC blowing my temps stay just below 210 according to my factory gauge and my oil pressure is around 35ish psi at idle. If I start getting into boost frequently Ive had it over 210 maybe 215-220 and oil pressure drops to 25ish psi at idle. I'm running Valvoline 10-30 VR1 oil. Do I have an issue?
The old school hot rodder in my head wants 180 degrees but I've had numerous people tell me fuel injection requires hotter temps for better atomization. If I turn my AC off it seems to run cooler. I've had a couple other turbo guys tell me not to worry about it. OSCS, would pulling my stat be a worth while endeavor? I didn't hijack this thread did I and if I did I apologize.
OEM swing needle gauges cannot be relied on as accurate. Often they'll display numbers to keep the driver happy even if there are large temperature changes. You need to read the data via the ecu itself whether it be tuning software, OBD type tools etc.
As for fuel injection requiring hotter temps...absolute bullshit. OEM's may tend to run hotter as it helps with emissions, and within reason can be kinder in terms of engine wear.
From a performance point of view, there is no reason at all to be running at 200deg nevermind higher.
So lets get some hard facts here. I just finished up a Huron Speed V1 AC kit on my 02 SS street car/DD and noticed it runs a little hotter. I have a 160 stat in it and dual Derale's mounted to the front of my condenser. If I putt around on a 90+ degree day w/ AC blowing my temps stay just below 210 according to my factory gauge and my oil pressure is around 35ish psi at idle. If I start getting into boost frequently Ive had it over 210 maybe 215-220 and oil pressure drops to 25ish psi at idle. I'm running Valvoline 10-30 VR1 oil. Do I have an issue?
The old school hot rodder in my head wants 180 degrees but I've had numerous people tell me fuel injection requires hotter temps for better atomization. If I turn my AC off it seems to run cooler. I've had a couple other turbo guys tell me not to worry about it. OSCS, would pulling my stat be a worth while endeavor? I didn't hijack this thread did I and if I did I apologize.
I think yanking the thermostat in the summer might be worth a shot in your case. Just don't forget to plug the bypass port. Honestly though I don't think you have an issue at all..
OEM swing needle gauges cannot be relied on as accurate. Often they'll display numbers to keep the driver happy even if there are large temperature changes. You need to read the data via the ecu itself whether it be tuning software, OBD type tools etc.
As for fuel injection requiring hotter temps...absolute bullshit. OEM's may tend to run hotter as it helps with emissions, and within reason can be kinder in terms of engine wear.
From a performance point of view, there is no reason at all to be running at 200deg nevermind higher.
I agree that the higher temps have nothing to do with with EFI atomization and emissions is likely the cause for higher factory operating temps. I also agree that 180-200* is the sweet spot but see no issues running around town at 200* or a little higher
Hey guys, I'm glad you all recommended the OBD II port! I just remembered that I have my hand held scanner I've been using to tune with. So I jammed outside and plugged it in and started the car and let it get up to temp. Holy ****. I was waaaay off, turns out what I thought was 200* was actually 175*!!!! I feel waay better now, I know the oil pressure will drop if I'm hammering on it a lot so I'll start collecting parts for an oil cooler this winter but man do I feel better about the CT and I can't believe how far off my factory gauge is. The needle was right next to the 210 hash mark so naturally I figured it had to be close to 200*. SMH.
Not trying to take away from oscs's post, but I got to do some driving this weekend and took some temp readings.
yesterday was about mid 90's here in Texas. 95% of the time was cruising with a little WOT boost tuning. 3-4 30 minute drives with stops in between
Coolant temps were consistently between 195-205* verified with stock ECT sensor in driver side head using HP Tuners
Oil temps stayed between 240-250* using an Autometer phantom OT gauge with the sensor mounted in the block off plate right above the oil filter on a GTO pan. I'm using Valvoline VR1 20-50 oil
Not trying to take away from oscs's post, but I got to do some driving this weekend and took some temp readings.
yesterday was about mid 90's here in Texas. 95% of the time was cruising with a little WOT boost tuning. 3-4 30 minute drives with stops in between
Coolant temps were consistently between 195-205* verified with stock ECT sensor in driver side head using HP Tuners
Oil temps stayed between 240-250* using an Autometer phantom OT gauge with the sensor mounted in the block off plate right above the oil filter on a GTO pan. I'm using Valvoline VR1 20-50 oil
Just posting what I found on my setup
If you're just cruising, no real load on the engine when you took those results, that is very odd for the oil to be so much hotter than the coolant temps.
Do both temperature readings read the same amount after the engine has been off for several hours ? ie an ambient reading.
If you're just cruising, no real load on the engine when you took those results, that is very odd for the oil to be so much hotter than the coolant temps.
Do both temperature readings read the same amount after the engine has been off for several hours ? ie an ambient reading.
I thought this was a little too hot just from driving around, and not beating on it like a track event.
you know, I didn't get a chance to go back and check the temps after it sat for a period of time. i'll try and look for that again later this week.
08-04-2015, 11:47 AM
