"The Bad Idea" Twin T70 On3, L33, glide', MS3 "vette" build.
04-23-2016, 12:41 AM
#81
Mounted the alternator down low and backwards due to lack of space, running it with a 4 rib belt off the ac grooves on the balancer to keep it close to the engine.
Made a overhead switch panel to control everything on the car, it's just a $8 electronics project box that runs 24 gauge wire down to the relay panel
The relay panel, It's a nylon cutting board that I mounted everything on, there is stuff mounted on both sides and you can see the MS3pro mounted to the floor.
Decided on 275 radial pro's for the car for now. I have a set of 15x12 wheels on order but I decided to try these out for now, these cars are so small that I had to open up the wheel well just to fit a 28'' tall tire.
That's it for now, thanks for looking
Made a overhead switch panel to control everything on the car, it's just a $8 electronics project box that runs 24 gauge wire down to the relay panel
The relay panel, It's a nylon cutting board that I mounted everything on, there is stuff mounted on both sides and you can see the MS3pro mounted to the floor.
Decided on 275 radial pro's for the car for now. I have a set of 15x12 wheels on order but I decided to try these out for now, these cars are so small that I had to open up the wheel well just to fit a 28'' tall tire.
That's it for now, thanks for looking
04-24-2016, 01:04 AM
#84
A 25.1 (6.0)(like mine) and a 25.5 (7.50)are the same tube sizes the only real difference is the weight. I could dual cert this car so that it would be good for both if I had to race the at 3000lbs but I have no idea how I would add 700lbs to get there.
05-26-2016, 01:40 AM
#87
I'm alittle behind but I have got some stuff done. Got the 24" front runners mounted, still need to raise the rear a bit.
Got the front and rear wheel speed sensors setup, the rear runs off the back of the studs and the front runs off a trigger wheel I had made.
Got the viking double adjustables on the front too, same fitment as a 70's dodge dart.
Got the front and rear wheel speed sensors setup, the rear runs off the back of the studs and the front runs off a trigger wheel I had made.
Got the viking double adjustables on the front too, same fitment as a 70's dodge dart.
05-26-2016, 11:36 AM
#96
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I used to run four low-Z injectors in two banks of two from MS on my daily driver. No problem with that. Maybe the extra current from another four would cause an issue?
05-26-2016, 12:01 PM
#97
I think it depends on the injector, I know the bosch white/green top 160's aren't really low or high they are around 5 ohms so I'm sure you could get away without a driver box. It probably only matters when you get into the really high duty cycles where the injector is on most of the time
05-26-2016, 12:26 PM
#98
I believe it boils down to heat. Running a low-Z Injector for long periods of time with a hi-Z driver will overheat/fry it. You *shouldn’t* overheat the drivers, even at 100% DC if they are only active for a few seconds with any injector. Not that driving them with proper INJ. driver isn’t a better method.
05-26-2016, 09:55 PM
#99
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OK, i kinda figured/hoping that was the setup. I've been looking into doing this as well. What model AEM inj driver are you using and have you looked into Versafueler?
