1998 Firebird forged 370, Lil john cam and billet 76mm, T400
#83
#84
I'm wiring my chevelle now. It's miserably tedious. I feel your pain. I've got the majority of it done. I have to figure out what I want to do with stock cluster.
#85
If you are going xfi or holley, do the dash. Easy to see at night and customized to your taste. I am working too much to do anything myself unless I want this to be a 3 year project.
#86
I want the classic look of the gauges. I think I'll be using two 5" gauges in place of the stock cluster, tach and speedo. I have a tablet that I will be using for my holley.
#87
#88
Electronics coming in finally. Got the dash and harnesses in. Already have the ECU. I am still thinking of doing some speedwire but still on the fence. I have a few months to think about it while I try to paint it.
Last edited by MIAmotorsports; 12-10-2015 at 09:09 PM.
#91
Dash is done just not snapped in because it has to come right back out for paint.
Rear is raised for transport. Front is getting raised a bit more than pic. It will hopefully be in my possession Saturday.
#94
once the hood comes off and the parachute mount is hidden it will look like a street car. The goal has been under 3000lbs with PS, PB, PW, factory power seats, stereo, LQ4 with turbo. I still have about 225lbs plus to take out, still has factory front suspension and brakes, door bars, glass rear hatch, rear t-top cubby, and going to a glide when it gets to that point.
#98
Picked car up this weekend. Excited on the drive there and wondering on the way home.
9 hrs one way plus stops sux.
Not sure what is going on here. The hole is way bigger that up. The tabs to secure on the bottom 3rd dont even touch the metal. The rivets on the bottom will need some attention. This can't be covered with the plastic panels because cage wont allow it like I asked. The stock plastics were discuss many many times. He said he had some ideas for the cage and I said go for it as long as I can retain the stock plastic. I knew it would have to be trimmed but I wanted it because this was to be a street car.
Not sure what is going on here. Not sure what is holding the bottom metal piece gonna investigate to see what is up. I can run my finger under it so I am going to push some mig wire under it and see if it comes out the underocating above the tire.
The gap on the rear bumper cover is from this. The chute mount is hitting the top panel of the bumper cover. I will move the morse cable and see if that does the trick but looks like the chute will have to be lower about 1/4 inch. It is tied into the cage through the back so this will be a bigger job.
This is the gap on the passenger fender to the bumper cover. This is not the way it should look. At some point I will try and figure out what is causing this.
9 hrs one way plus stops sux.
Not sure what is going on here. The hole is way bigger that up. The tabs to secure on the bottom 3rd dont even touch the metal. The rivets on the bottom will need some attention. This can't be covered with the plastic panels because cage wont allow it like I asked. The stock plastics were discuss many many times. He said he had some ideas for the cage and I said go for it as long as I can retain the stock plastic. I knew it would have to be trimmed but I wanted it because this was to be a street car.
Not sure what is going on here. Not sure what is holding the bottom metal piece gonna investigate to see what is up. I can run my finger under it so I am going to push some mig wire under it and see if it comes out the underocating above the tire.
The gap on the rear bumper cover is from this. The chute mount is hitting the top panel of the bumper cover. I will move the morse cable and see if that does the trick but looks like the chute will have to be lower about 1/4 inch. It is tied into the cage through the back so this will be a bigger job.
This is the gap on the passenger fender to the bumper cover. This is not the way it should look. At some point I will try and figure out what is causing this.
Last edited by MIAmotorsports; 12-20-2015 at 08:03 PM.