Back to the basics i guess but im wondering with a 1000+rwhp SC, should i be running an oiled or dry filter? Have any of you seen a diff in these?

Im digging into a "stutter" i have when giving light throttle and the MAF goes erratic on the logs, but clears itself up with a slight more throttle. This happens at any rpm and roll. I can be at 75mph and give just a slight throttle and the the car stutters so to speak then kicks in and goes. The same thing when pulling it on the trailer or pulling out of a parking lot.

The air filter hasn't been cleaned in awhile and there isn't much oil on it. I have a new MAF to swap out if it needs it, but want some opinions first.

Thanks

 

MAF is probably messed up, and then once you roll in the throttle enough, it cleans up and uses the VE table for fueling.

 

As long as the filter is of adequate size, and you dont go nuts with the oil I dont see a problem.

Especially as most LS boost builds will be blowing through the MAF rather than sucking through, where the filter would be very close to the MAF ( assuming you're not a valley mounted blower )

But you dont say if the stutter is a new problem, or if it has run properly for some time, or if there were any changes prior to it.
Or where MAF might be mounted, how where BOV is placed etc etc

 

Years ago GM had a notice about using oiled filters, it was messing up the wire or whatever the air blows over
try it w/o the filter, just cover the opening with screen

 

That is not how it works....

on any vehicle with a Real VE table (as opposed to a virtual VE like the LS3 and LS7 uses)
it uses VE and MAF blend at lower rpm's and any time it is in a non steady state
there is a setting in the ECU that you can set to be any rpm you want, but from the factory, its set to 4000 RPM.... above this RPM it is always considered steady state and uses Strictly the MAF

if you are using a Custom OS with a 2 bar or 3bar VE, then it doesnt use the MAF at all.....for anything....







the stutter can be any number of things....
it can be a lean spot or rich spot in the VE table or the MAF...
it can be a problem with the MAF being dirty so the calibration is no longer correct...
it can even be a sign of a failing fuel pump or an injector issue forming



the only way to figure it out properly will be to Data log it happening and analyze the data.

I would at least start with cleaning the MAF...theres a cleaner specifically made for the MAF you can buy at just about any auto parts store.


as far as filters go...
really...no major difference as long as you dont go crazy with the oil
K&N filters sometimes come oiled with too much oil from the factory
so I always clean them and re-oil them myself before use, and make the oil lighter than what it came with.
the lighter you can go, the better...you only need just enough to trap fine particle dust

and sometimes Paper Filters flow just as good as an aftermarket filter...
buy a good one like the WIX filter and it comes pretty close to the K&N for the F-body cars.

either way, its usually only a few HP difference at the max....sometimes it just not worth the issues the oil can cause.

the benefits of going with an oiled filter is there are just a lot more choices..so if you need something different than factory (like many forced induction setups do), then you can simply go to the K&N site and use their filter search and type in dimensions you are looking for...and it will give you a bunch of options.

 

thanks for the replies. Last night i cleaned the filter very well and gave ample amount of time to dry. Applied a light coat of oil (just enough for it to change color) and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. For the first few miles the car did fine with no stutter, but it came back later that day after it sat while i did some exhaust work to it.

I contacted the filter company with my setup who suggested no oil with my HP level and build. They said they would start with a new completely dry filter (while talking with them it made me think of cleaning mine and running a think pre-filter instead of any oil and also save the $50 for the new filter). Opinions on a pre-filter cover?

Today im going to clean my old filter and let it dry overnight and not oil it. Install a brand new MAF and see what i get. To be honest i don't think it will help as my tuner has studied the data over and over and says its something physical with the way this system is set-up and thinks the tube im running for the CAI is issue. Something to do with the way the air is circulating. I personally think he's right as its a new CAI that was installed on the car with entire new fuel system ID1300's, etc, but i don't see anything on the net where others have had this problem with the CAI im running. I never had this problem with my old CAI brand i used.

 

pics and more details of the build.

And again you dont say if this is a new problem that has developed, or something always been present

History is vital when trying to diagnose problems, especially remotely

 

2010 Camaro with a 6.2 maggie on it. typical 6.2 CAI setup, but ive got my fuel tank and NOS solenoids mounted inside the box next to the filter. The CAI is a Cold Air Inductions

This is a new problem since i put on the Cold Air Induction system and the car was tuned for it.

 

So MAF would be very close to throttle and a very short route generally ?

Disrupted airflow could very easily be your problem, even more so if you have those solenoids in there potentially disturbing airflow.

MAF's and their plumbing are generally designed with a decent straight path to smooth airflow before the metering head itself.

If the CAI is normally ok on other builds, remove the solenoids from inside it and try again.

But any tuning done with this disturbance in place may need re-done at the same time as the tuner has maybe tried to tune around the problem which itself may cause issues when the physical problem is removed.

 

Here is a pic of the setup complete.

 

Do any of you think the tube could be the issue?

 

So the MAF isnt even in it's original housing ?

As said, it is critical to get the housing and flow path correct. If it's wrong you'll be forever chasing your tail with problems.

shape of airflow, pipe diameter, they all play a part. The diameter of yours also looks very small. Might get away with that n/a, but for a powerful car sucking a lot more air, you may well need a larger diameter tube

So YES, it could be part of the problem.

 

Tuner thinks so also :-)

but you guys give it in lamans terms lol

 

Im not sure what you mean about the MAF not in its original housing?

 

I'm presuming this pipe and where the MAF unit bolts in, is not original ?

 

no its not. Cold Air Inductions intake kit