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G-body + Ebay headers. What you using?

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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:30 PM
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Default G-body + Ebay headers. What you using?

Situation is,

I figured the factory truck manifolds would have fit a little better than they do since everyone uses them. The passenger side is against the heater box and the driver side is on the steering shaft. I know I can make these work because people do. But i'm wondering if anyone had good luck with a cheap ebay set that clear the box and steering shaft?


I've considered loosing the AC box but I want the heat and defrost.
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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They're hitting that stuff while facing forward?
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 04:52 PM
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Yes, if I do the passenger side up and forward it hits the box. If I do one down and forward it Burries the flange down into the sub frame area. It can be made to work I'm sure. I have seen some gbody guys have luck with the cheap ebay headers and I can't find those threads now while searching
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 09:46 PM
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I'd look into other factory manifolds before ebay junk. There are many to choose from. I kinda like the idea of a collector type header as well but most of the SS ebay stuff I've seen is crap. Advertised as "16 gauge". It was lucky to be 18g in some places.

Fbody and some of the corvette manifolds are stamped SS as well.





Last edited by Forcefed86; Jan 29, 2015 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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i used the truck manifolds that came on the L33. factory heater box and a 4" down pipe

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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 01:46 PM
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Face them forward and down. But cut off the factory flanges and weld on v-bands. You can cut the flanges off at the engles required to direct the exhaust forward rather than continue downwards. Some people even cut the back a ways towards the middle of the manifold and weld in a new log portion of it to direct the passenger side DIRECTLY forward rather than slightly downwards. Also the drivers side everyone says hits the stock alternator even when cut and re-welded with v-bands. If you cut the manifold outlet behind the flange at an angle "outwards" from the engine, away from the alternator, it easily clears and you can route around the alternator and back towards the front.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Thanks guys.

Turbo Tator, do you have other pictures of them that show more detail
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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i taught my boy how to tig on this project

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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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Good job getting the kid involved!!!!
I love it when my daughter ask to go for a ride. I drive around like a little kid. Big o grin.
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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Your drivers side looks really close to the frame. What kind of clearance between them? That's exactly what i'm concerned about. I can see how you cut the passenger side and steered it away.
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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the frame is not the problem , the steering shaft is.
remember though the engine if it moves will move away from the steering shaft so it clears by a little your good to go. I have no marks on my steering shaft and it is only about 1/4" away from the cross over pipe.
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 12:07 AM
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I used LSA manifolds flipped and they clear well.
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