GM heads for procharger
#1
GM heads for procharger
I'm newer to the FI world and have been doing a lot of reading to brush up on the basics. I have a fully stock internal LS1 out of a 2000 with 54k miles and all bolt ons.
Before I put on a D1SC kit, I plan on upgrading to a LS6 intake with a p&p TB, along with a blower cam (Speed Inc SC2 or Futral F7) with supporting valvetrain components.
My question is, while I'm already in there, should I replace my stock 241 heads with some 243's or 317's in prep for the boost? Looking to run 7-8 lbs with the stock internals to get around ~550hp. Is it worth it for a street application with my power goals in mind, or will the 241's be okay?
Thanks in advance for the help!
Before I put on a D1SC kit, I plan on upgrading to a LS6 intake with a p&p TB, along with a blower cam (Speed Inc SC2 or Futral F7) with supporting valvetrain components.
My question is, while I'm already in there, should I replace my stock 241 heads with some 243's or 317's in prep for the boost? Looking to run 7-8 lbs with the stock internals to get around ~550hp. Is it worth it for a street application with my power goals in mind, or will the 241's be okay?
Thanks in advance for the help!
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
There is nothing wrong with 241 heads and boost, they will do just fine. Also save your money on the P/P TB not worth it for what your doing. I would recommend pulling the heads and installing MLS gaskets and ARP head studs.
Last edited by conan; 02-19-2015 at 06:30 PM.
#3
Perfect, $$ saved for other components! I was just going put on the p&p TB when I do the LS6 intake just for the increased throttle response, but its not needed with a with a D1SC?
I believe the MLS gaskets are .051" compressed. What would that put the compression at with untouched 241s?
I believe the MLS gaskets are .051" compressed. What would that put the compression at with untouched 241s?
Last edited by meeklay812; 02-19-2015 at 09:33 PM.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
I get 10.05:1 compression with a 3.910 gasket bore and a compressed thickness of .054 for the GM MLS gasket. You could do a Cometic .040 gasket and bump to 10.3:1 compression, but the extra $$$ for the Cometics isn't really worth it. Keeping the compression up will help keep a crisp throttle response out of boost.
With all the extra money you just saved I would also look into a meth injection kit to help keep the stock bottom end alive as well.
With all the extra money you just saved I would also look into a meth injection kit to help keep the stock bottom end alive as well.
#6
Still weighing my cam options a bit. My build will be a street weekend warrior, not a daily driver. What stage cam motion blower cam do you have, and how is it for the street?
Everyone says great things about the EPP cam, but I think I'm looking for something a bit smaller, which brought me to the Futral F7 or the Speed Inc SC2.
Everyone says great things about the EPP cam, but I think I'm looking for something a bit smaller, which brought me to the Futral F7 or the Speed Inc SC2.
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (28)
Still weighing my cam options a bit. My build will be a street weekend warrior, not a daily driver. What stage cam motion blower cam do you have, and how is it for the street?
Everyone says great things about the EPP cam, but I think I'm looking for something a bit smaller, which brought me to the Futral F7 or the Speed Inc SC2.
Everyone says great things about the EPP cam, but I think I'm looking for something a bit smaller, which brought me to the Futral F7 or the Speed Inc SC2.
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#8
What cam characteristics should I be looking for to provide the best low end torque for the street. I understand that a good blower cam should be a split pattern with roughly 8 degrees more duration on the exhaust side, ground on a 114-115LSA and no overlap. This will be primarily a weekend warrior and am looking for the most low end torque as possible.
Last edited by meeklay812; 02-23-2015 at 10:39 PM.