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Modifying stock oil pan

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Old 04-24-2015 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I'd think a 2qt accumulator would solve any accel/brake oil pressure issues regardless of the pan used.
Forgive my ignorance but can you give a brief description of how it is suppose to work?
Old 04-24-2015 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Forgive my ignorance but can you give a brief description of how it is suppose to work?
Just a 2 qt tank with a spring/piston on one end. Oil fills the tank via pressure form the oil pump compressing the spring. (or gas)

If there is ever a loss in pressure (hard braking, accel, cornering) the spring pushes the oil in the accumulator back through the system until it stabilizes.

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html







Last edited by Forcefed86; 04-24-2015 at 03:12 PM.
Old 04-24-2015 | 02:53 PM
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I wouldnt fancy running excessive amounts of oil in the pan, maybe 2 litres extra at most. But a lot will be sloshing about inside the block etc with the engine running.

What about some of the Moroso or Canton type pans ?

They should fairly closely replicate the dimensions of the F Body pan if that's what you're using ?

Autokraft is very close, takes up less room up front, with it only a little wider at the main body on the sides.
Old 04-24-2015 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I wouldnt fancy running excessive amounts of oil in the pan, maybe 2 litres extra at most. But a lot will be sloshing about inside the block etc with the engine running.

What about some of the Moroso or Canton type pans ?

They should fairly closely replicate the dimensions of the F Body pan if that's what you're using ?

Autokraft is very close, takes up less room up front, with it only a little wider at the main body on the sides.
Im currently running the LS2/3 pan and doing so becuase it is the "shortest" pan. Ground clearnece is always an issue with these cars. I think what i have is ok i just want to make a few modifications to keep it that way.
Old 04-24-2015 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Just a 2 qt tank with a spring/piston on one end. Oil fills the tank via pressure form the oil pump compressing the spring.

If there is ever a loss in pressure (hard braking, accel, cornering) the spring pushes the oil in the accumulator back through the system until it stabilizes.

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html








Stupid simple.. I like it. It is almost like an insurnace policy for your motor.
Old 04-24-2015 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Stupid simple.. I like it. It is almost like an insurnace policy for your motor.
Yup, super common on road race cars. Drag cars usually don't need it for pressure loss issues with the correct sump. But I've seen several cars that still use them as a pre-lube before engine starts.
Old 04-24-2015 | 03:50 PM
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Then maybe just look into some proper baffling of the existing pan ?

According to this list, Canton is only 1/2" taller than the LS2, likewise the Autokraft. Both at 5 1/2" whereas the LS2 lists as 5"

Dont see the earlier LS6 Vette big wing type pan listed though, it's quite short I think



https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...d.php?t=208618

http://www.improvedracing.com/tech/L...dimensions.php
Old 04-24-2015 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Yup, super common on road race cars. Drag cars usually don't need it for pressure loss issues with the correct sump. But I've seen several cars that still use them as a pre-lube before engine starts.
I have an accusump as well. Insurance policy just in case. Its only on when I'm drag racing though (On a switch with my transbrake)
Old 10-12-2015 | 12:55 AM
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anyone ever try modifying the stock oil baffle or bottom of the pan? curious..
Old 10-12-2015 | 10:41 AM
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Not pretty but it works.
20150828_161753 by Tom Fiddler, on Flickr
Old 10-12-2015 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I believe the same 5.5 is recommended.

With the engine running, I pulled my lower turbo drain and added oil until it started coming out. (have 2 drain on my pan seen in pics below) I was able to get about 8 qts in before it trickled out the bottom drain. Stock48 and a few others think this causes serious windage issues and claim to have seen as much as 50whp lost by running 1qt “overfull”. Suppose if I had to choose between wiped bearings and a 50 hp though…

Took a few pics last time I had the pan out. With my LC9 eng. running the level drops about 2qts. That was using the High Volume DOD pump.

The pan is a little “nose up”. That’s how it is installed in my car. Oil level would be a little lower if your pan sits level.

This is 5 qts.





Here is 6 qts.

It barely cleared my first drain. (using the larger drain up front now.) But if you add the oil filter capacity and the engine oil passage capacity I still think 6qts would more than clear my first drain. And be clear of the crank/windage tray.



On the bold, if you run too much, the crank will whip oil into a foamy mess, and you will loose oil pressure.

Not sure if it would ever be an issue at the drags, but it is in boats. Factory tech told me that as little as 1 qt over will do it (It came up last week, when I was chasing ghosts looking for a run-ability issue, and ecu had logged several oil pressure losses)
Old 10-12-2015 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Krom
On the bold, if you run too much, the crank will whip oil into a foamy mess, and you will loose oil pressure.

Not sure if it would ever be an issue at the drags, but it is in boats. Factory tech told me that as little as 1 qt over will do it (It came up last week, when I was chasing ghosts looking for a run-ability issue, and ecu had logged several oil pressure losses)
On an LS engine with the OEM windage tray? The oil level is no where near the crank at 6.5 or even 7qts. I've known MANY that run 7qts and the engines live long healthy lives on street/strip cars. It's very common place with Fbody pans.



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