Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

T4 non divided, any suggestions on what to use? (PT76gts)

I have a paper (for lack of a better description) gasket now and I have some lovely ticking under load.

Local place has a SS one, and of course I can get whatever online.

Suggestions?

turboventura

Copper rtv, not the red. Used it on my SBC headers and even had the last header bolt stripped, held great.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

At the turbine flange? I keep reading stories of it being way to hot for the cooper rtv to last.

Assume a **** ton of BP and EGT.

mistafosta

iTrader: (9)

I personally use a metal gasket, never had an issue. I know a few people that use copper rtv only without a problem though.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Ok I will grab a local SS one and see how that does.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

If both surfaces are true, you don't need any gasket. I don't think RTV really "holds up". As it burns it creates a small carbon seal from the burnt RTV. THe RTV itself isn't holding anything together at that point. But it can help seal minor surface imperfections.

Oldschool diesel method is to true both surfaces and use a thin coating of bearing grease... Same idea as RTV. Grease burns off and leaves carbon behind.

I'd block sand both surfaces and use a SS or graphite gasket.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I am kicking myself for not truing the flanges at work when the damn thing was apart, but it is what it is now. I will toss in a SS gasket and see how it works. I was just gonna run a small bead of copper RTV on it as well.

Its a ticking that for the life of me sounds like a damn lifter but everything is adjusted and brand new.

stevieturbo

If the flanges arent flat, you're wasting your time.

Make them flat.

But generally the steel shim type gasket is what OEM's etc would use. But they still wont fix a flange like a banana

turboventura

I never sanded my flange or anything, 1/2in mild steel T6, no leaks. I could see where the rtv could burn but still seal though, as long as its not leaking I don't care what's going on in there haha.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I used a steel gasket and aluminum RTV that came with a buddies Stainless Works headers. We will see how it works out.....

HeavyMetl

iTrader: (2)

Trued the flanges and copper rtv here. Several hundred street miles and a bunch of WOT pulls and so far so good.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Well, its not looser rockers, or shot header/turbine gaskets, or loose vbands, so gotta chase down a pin hole leak I would guess now.

Any ideas on how to do that without burning the crap out of my hands?

stevieturbo

Stick a bit of flexible tubing in your ear and use it as a stethoscope

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Its tough cause of the packaging.



I am thinking its that stupid *** flex joint cause the downpipe is a solid pipe and its def making noise from that sector.

mistafosta

iTrader: (9)

As I was looking at that picture I was thinking the same exact thing in my head. Sometimes if its been leaking a little while you can see soot around the leak on those

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Issue is, I went to town with the wrap so everything is covered up. From a quick look, I couldn't see any soot.

trying very hard to needlessly yank that manifold, cause there is not enough prozac in teh world fo rthat lol

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Same way you check the cold side. Pressurize the exhaust system. Spray soapy water all over the exh system.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I have basically seen every answer been so far, just gotta figure out how to hook up to v bands with my air compressor.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't have to be a perfect seal, stuff some rags in tight around a shop air hose and duct tape it. Regulate the air up to 10-20psi. Shouldn't need much pressure. Just enough to make a tiny pressure differential so you can see bubbles

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Hmn alright, I'll get it on ramps tonight and mess with it.

Water shouldn't affect exhaust wrap right?