Do you have a link to where someone did this? I am not saying you're wrong, in fact, I would agree, I just have not seen this done.

I think to do it right, you want boost down low, and I think for that you'll need forged rods and pistons. As I understand it, boost that comes in low in the RPM range is what tends to kill stock rods and pistons.

Andrew

 

There's no doubt the boost can create a lot of extra torque which can maybe add risk to those parts...but I'd say as long as timing is conservative there should be minimal risk, unless it's really making insane torque.

low rpm boost isnt a killer on Roots blower setups, so shouldnt be on a turbo setup either for similar power/torque levels.

 

Here is a quick BW MatchBot for a 6.0L with a S369SXE

http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/3MWS4I

The first point is 1600RPM and you can easily build 9 pounds of boost at that point and make double the torque of the big block. The delta P is high at 5500rpm, but who cares? This is for a tow rig...

It'll make over 600lb/ft everywhere...

Andrew

 

No experience with the s369 on a 6.0. I had a l76 6.0 with an on3 70/65, it pulled like a diesel. I only ever ran 8 lbs but it was plenty until I lost my afm lifters then oil pressure...

 

I have 97 1-ton Express van that I did a turbo 5.3 in. Mainly to use a a tow pig and dirt bike hauler.

It all junk (and gets treated that way) except for the turbo. Borg S366.

Also live in CO in the mountains where local atmospheric pressure is 3 psi down on seal level. Some of the local mountain passes are more like 5psi lower than sea level.

I think the van weighs well over 6,000 lbs. I just delivered a motor + gearbox using it the other day and was getting 17 mpg. In summer that goes up a bit.

It mainly gets used to tow a teardrop camper around while carrying bikes.

Last summer I drove nearly all of I-70 from near the Utah border to Denver and back to pick up a car with it. On the way back with the car in tow, it averaged over 13mpg at 75mph through the central peaks.

To be honest I'm running a bit rich, just 11.5 AFR as soon as it gets into positive pressure. I also have a little 13.1 zone when not in boost that it likes to sit in when cruising at 65mph that I need to tune out too.

I was pretty surprised at how little time it had to stay in boost towing ~5,000lbs through the mountains.

At 75 mph it sits right at about 2,500 rpm. Which is right about where it can easily make boost as you roll into it.

I've currently got a 10 psi WG spring in but I've been meaning to go down to a 5 psi spring since there aren't many times you need 10 psi and it encourages a bit too much "spirited driving" when empty.

The only reliability issue I've had with it is my own fault. I bought an upgraded radiator anticipating extra heat from the turbo and stripped one of the trans cooler ports when I installed it. Bodged it up with some JB weld like a good sloppy mechanic and thought "I'll fix it properly later". I'm sure you can imagine how that turned out about a year later.

Luckily when JB weld let go I noticed it immediately and it was only a couple mile walk to nearest autozone where I bought a cheap trans cooler kit and was back on the road in no time.

 

Sounds good in theory, but do you really want to be in boost at 1600 rpm (i.e. ALL the time)?

 

Boost is related not only to RRM but also related to load. Just like your big block doesn't make the torque numbers at 1600 rpm, unless it's at WOT...

Besides, you'll be running a good boost control strategy and you can dial in any boost curve you want. (Right? Lol)

Andrew

 

I would like to buy your truck, any interest in selling it? real honest question.

I would install a Holley LS2 terminator EFI kit for DBW and 4l80e, a Mercruiser MPI intake and late truck 87mm dbw TB. install a 4L80e. Add a pair of S366's cam and valve spring upgrade from John Bewley and enjoy the hell out of it. The next step would be an aluminum head upgrade with a more efficient combustion chamber. I assure you fuel mileage wouldn't be much different between a well set up 454 vs a 6.0 truck. power and Fuel mileage is horrible on those because they are plugged up so bad and low compression/poor combustion chamber, horrible cam.

 

Honestly, I'd forgotten that. Haven't had a turbo car in about 15 years. I'm looking for some well set up examples that are already built. No need to reinvent the wheel.

 

I appreciate it, but no. I've only had it a few months and I love it. It gets as many comments when I go out as my chopped, bagged street rod! The truck has 55k original miles and had a cosmetic restoration right before I bought it. Previous owner did a color change (thankfully). It was Burgundy/Red/Burgundy with one-year only (77) yellow trim from the factory.

 

No need to do a turbo build for towing. I would rather duplicate I motor I seen in a gmhtp article that was naturally aspirated that produced 475 ft lbs and 455 hp at the crank. It was a base LM7 iron 5.3 block with a 4 inch stroker crank (383 ci).... using stock 317 heads and a regular stock truck intake. The cam was also small at 210 degrees or so. Built and tested by Richard Holderner. With a motor like that I'll say she'll pull a F body down the highway with ease without worrying about boost levels.

 

This is what I've been getting at. At the end of the day it doesn't matter what you rsetup is as long as the setup is - SETUP - correctly for your purposes. If you have a motor with good VE in the proper rpm range then you are going to need to burn X amount of fuel. The motor itself will not matter much, but its manners and rpm, required throttle input etc might.

I'm not even really talking turbos. But when talking about not re-inventing the wheel, isn'd putting a turbo LS motor in a 70's big block truck doing exactly that?

If I saw two of the identical dually's parked side by side and one had a 454 and one had 6.0 I would have zero interest in the 6.0. I would think, man, somebody ruined that truck.

 

Personally disagree, but to your point, a 502HO would certainly get the job done.

Andrew

 

Any pics of the set-up?

 

Zizzle has a build thread over at performancetrucks. http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...-8-van-539084/

 

If that would make you think the truck is "ruined", you'll absolutely HATE it when it's bagged!

As for "reinventing the wheel" that was strictly in reference to duplicating a proven setup. I have ZERO issues putting a modern drivetrain in and old vehicle (as evidence, see my chopped, bagged, 5.3/4l60e powered '36 Chevy sedan).

It's all good info and I appreciate everyone's point-of-view.

 

I think your truck will look awesome bagged!

I hope you do the 6.0L with the s369sxe.

Andrew

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

I know about the reinventing the wheel comment, what you meant.

Buddy, seriously, maybe you should call me. I need to talk you out of everything you are thinking about doing to that thing, lol.

 

LOL, I'm an old man. Not much chance of anyone talking me out of anything that I like. I love the look and ride quality of a bagged car/truck.