Major Problems with car!
The E-mail addy is Apollo95@aol.com Also John whats the ideal AF i should be looking for. Like i said its fine on the high way in 2nd and third gear. Low gear is just a dog. I dont know what scott had done to make it run like it did. Im trying to get this sorted out this week so i can run True Street class in the Pro Edelbrock Drag series this weekend.
AF at idle or when?
We can send the file tomorrow. At idle anywhere from 14.5:1 to 13.5:1 might be okay. VE values could be anywhere from 35 to 55 to run good. I would maintain stock timing values at idle to keep it simple.
Gotta run!
We can send the file tomorrow. At idle anywhere from 14.5:1 to 13.5:1 might be okay. VE values could be anywhere from 35 to 55 to run good. I would maintain stock timing values at idle to keep it simple.
Gotta run!
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Charlestown, Indiana
Personally, I'd want idle to be 14.7:1, or maybe a little leaner. There's no way I'd want it 13.5:1. But that's just me.
However, I'm pretty sure you wanted to know what AF should be at WOT, since most people already know what ideal idle is. If that is the case, I'd want to see 12.0-12.5:1 with a blower car, and 0 KR.
And VE values could be anywhere from 20-120. They are relative to where the tuning began and are usually never the same from car to car. Whether the numbers are 55 or 120 have nothing to do with whether it will "run good" or not. They only affect the fueling at given RPM's and should be adjusted accordingly so that the WB does not have to correct more than 5-10% max. When the WB is at a 0 correction, the car will run the cleanest (though this is not very easy to do, and requires a lot of tuning time).
White_Hawk - you weren't talking about me were you? Because I'm only trying to make sure that someone isn't "misinformed" to the point it costs them an engine. And when someone posts answers to questions that they clearly know absolutely nothing about personally, it really bothers me. In other words, you wouldn't want the janitor at the Doctors office to give you medical advice just because he's good at repeating what he hears Doctors say all day.....would you?
However, I'm pretty sure you wanted to know what AF should be at WOT, since most people already know what ideal idle is. If that is the case, I'd want to see 12.0-12.5:1 with a blower car, and 0 KR.
And VE values could be anywhere from 20-120. They are relative to where the tuning began and are usually never the same from car to car. Whether the numbers are 55 or 120 have nothing to do with whether it will "run good" or not. They only affect the fueling at given RPM's and should be adjusted accordingly so that the WB does not have to correct more than 5-10% max. When the WB is at a 0 correction, the car will run the cleanest (though this is not very easy to do, and requires a lot of tuning time).
White_Hawk - you weren't talking about me were you? Because I'm only trying to make sure that someone isn't "misinformed" to the point it costs them an engine. And when someone posts answers to questions that they clearly know absolutely nothing about personally, it really bothers me. In other words, you wouldn't want the janitor at the Doctors office to give you medical advice just because he's good at repeating what he hears Doctors say all day.....would you?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 12
From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by U-Luze
I didnt not get the fast software with the car. It was suppost to me mailed to me. So no way for me too look. I was told there was no changes in tuneing since i seen it in Bowling Green, only changes for the car was a griffen FMIC. And thats not gonna hurt it. I just dont understand why it wont run like i seen it run.
Originally Posted by Rob Raymer
White_Hawk - you weren't talking about me were you? Because I'm only trying to make sure that someone isn't "misinformed" to the point it costs them an engine. And when someone posts answers to questions that they clearly know absolutely nothing about personally, it really bothers me. In other words, you wouldn't want the janitor at the Doctors office to give you medical advice just because he's good at repeating what he hears Doctors say all day.....would you?
-Geoff
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 630
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
Notice how every time a certain someone posts he's followed by people who automatically assume he's going to start a post-war? What does he need to get a clue about? All I see him doing is offering his professional advice. Glad to see he still stuck around to do that! So STFU and don't read into how a person types. If they guy wants to take Rob's advice he can, if not, he doesnt have too. Just like you and other would be antagonists dont have to post your petty 1 peso worth comments.
Justin, here are my thoughts on your setup, which I have seen run before:
-Your current setup uses FAST for fueling, but not timing. I would guess that you have 72 or 83 lb injectors. That car has the same fuel pump as me, 2025 Weldon. Base fuel pressure might be ~43 psi.
-Idle AF ~14:1 +/- .5
-Part throttle, light load, cruise AF ~14:1 or richer
-Boosted WOT AF ~12:1, keep it safe, not sure where your wideband is plumbed in and the farther back it is the leaner it will read
-I believe that car's WOT was set around 17 degrees with 110 leaded, what gas are you using? BUT, the Griffin FMIC was added so I'm sure you can put timing back into it, I was running 21-22 at WOT.
-Your current setup uses FAST for fueling, but not timing. I would guess that you have 72 or 83 lb injectors. That car has the same fuel pump as me, 2025 Weldon. Base fuel pressure might be ~43 psi.
-Idle AF ~14:1 +/- .5
-Part throttle, light load, cruise AF ~14:1 or richer
-Boosted WOT AF ~12:1, keep it safe, not sure where your wideband is plumbed in and the farther back it is the leaner it will read
-I believe that car's WOT was set around 17 degrees with 110 leaded, what gas are you using? BUT, the Griffin FMIC was added so I'm sure you can put timing back into it, I was running 21-22 at WOT.
Whitehawk if u have nothing better to say please dont post in my thread. Rob is trying to help me out, not u.
PSJ the car has 65 lb injectors, I seen an O2 sensor where the original bungs are in the headers. Im running straight VP RED which i believe is 110.
I called and talked to Dave at Cartek today and he said dont run it till it gets looked at, I hate to drive the 14 hours back up north to get them to look at it I would rather get Rob to look at it and get it done right and back to normal. He also told me that the last time it was at the track it didnt run like it should and was suppost to have been checked out but never made it there. He told me it usually gos high 1.4s to low 1.5s on the Footbrake. So that definally tells me theres something wrong.
Kurt (427) I tried to call u today i will call again tommorow.
Rob i also tried to get ahold of u and i spoke with penny, Give me a ring on my cell when u can.
PSJ the car has 65 lb injectors, I seen an O2 sensor where the original bungs are in the headers. Im running straight VP RED which i believe is 110.
I called and talked to Dave at Cartek today and he said dont run it till it gets looked at, I hate to drive the 14 hours back up north to get them to look at it I would rather get Rob to look at it and get it done right and back to normal. He also told me that the last time it was at the track it didnt run like it should and was suppost to have been checked out but never made it there. He told me it usually gos high 1.4s to low 1.5s on the Footbrake. So that definally tells me theres something wrong.
Kurt (427) I tried to call u today i will call again tommorow.
Rob i also tried to get ahold of u and i spoke with penny, Give me a ring on my cell when u can.
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Verdad Gallardo Email Keith@hptuners.com, he should be able to send you a zip file of the FAST software that we are using.
I have my wideband in the header bungs too.
I have my wideband in the header bungs too.