With the engine & transmission in I began to install more parts from my collection.

Installed the rebuilt starter



Purchased a new brake booster, z32 brake master cylinder, z32 clutch master & slave cylinders.


Decided to paint my booster prior to install.




Installed the brake booster, brake master cylinder & all the clutch hydraulics.

 

To finish up the 4.8 I installed my injectors, fuel rails, intake manifold, billet EGR block off, alternator, billet belt tensioner, & serpentine belt.

 

I also reworked/wire tucked my gold box harness. I relocated the coil pack plugs & coolant temperature sensor plug without any cutting of the harness.











My main goal is reaching 180+mph in a standing mile. I'd also like to trap 135mph+ in the 1/4. I wouldn't mind seeing if this little 4.8 can make 600whp on E85. It'll still be stock bottom end & stock cylinder heads. I'm not really too concerned with a dyno sheet. I'd be ecstatic if I could reach any of my goals with this little 4.8. I should have another small update within the next couple months. Thanks for stopping by.

 

Here's a video of the Straub Technologies Trunnion Kit install.

 

Post some pics so we can see your progress

 

Your temp paint booth is ******* awesome. I assume the top fan blows in and the bottom fan blows out....is that right?

 

Yeah the top blows in air. The 2 fans on the sides of the booth draw though fabric air filters, then Activated charcoal air filters. It worked similar to a down draft booth. I had 0 turbulence issues.

 

This is pretty much the cars current state. I'm currently ironing out/researching some ideas. I'll post more content once I get more work done.

 

Killer fab work man. That thing has come a long way!

 

Thanks man. It's getting there slowly but surely. Hopefully it'll be all down hill from here

 

Nice build, can't wait to see it done!

 

Thanks man! You & me both

 

Well the time has come for another update on my build. It's a small update but an update none the less. The 1st item on the list was buttoning up my manual rack. By installing new grease fittings, tie rods, & boots.These are grease fitting sizes were used M12x1.0mm, M14x1.5mm, & M16x1.5mm.

 

Got tired of seeing & smelling the interior of this car so I tore it all out. And yes that is house carpet smh......lol.

 

Check out this 14+ year old unopened 1 liter pepsi. Well it expired over 14 years ago. Found it under the driver side seat. Needless to say it went to the trash immediately.









The pile that went to the trash.

 

Then I drilled a hole into my firewall for my engine wiring harness. The hole I saved during the engine bay work was too far away for the harness to reach. Unfortunately I did the engine bay work before I purchased my ecu & harness.












Figured I might as remove all unwanted wires from each of the factory wiring harnesses. Each terminated wire was properly depinned from the connector. Armed with the Z31 FSM I identified & labelled all connectors. The label maker I used is the Dymo Rhino 5200. It's hands down the best label maker I've ever used/owned.

Chassis Harness

Before











After

 

Factory Engine Harness



Before





After







Body Harness

Before





I relocated the relays inside the cabin. Which meant I had to extend all the front accessory harness sections(headlights, turn lamps, horn& side markers) here's the after.

 

Out of curiosity I weighed the all terminated wires. It weighed in at 10.4 Lbs exactly. To be honest it wasn't worth the 60+hrs I spent terminating, labelling, & reworking the harnesses. I also replaced all factory loom & re-wrapped all the harness with fire resistant electrical tape. I could've done it faster but even if it only took 30 Hrs, it would still be too much in my opinion.







The only section that's mostly installed is the front body harness. The rest of it is kind laying in its place at the moment. Here's pics of the partially installed front body harness.
Driver side






Passenger side
Wrapped this portion with DEI Titanium heat wrap for extra protection from the downpipe.

 

Seemed like the perfect time to remove majority of the sound deadening. Considering everything inside the cabin removed. I've removed my fair share of sound deadening out of several different vehicles over the years. I've found dry ice to be the fastest, easiest, & cleanest. The dry ice method leaves minimal amount of residue. The only downside is dry ice is kinda pricey. But well worth it in my opinion. I also like to use maximum strength Goo Gone to remove all left over residue. It literally wipes off after letting it soak 5 minutes. Here's some pics of sound deadening removal process.


Before











During











I lucked out by removing some pretty large pieces of sound deadening.

 

After











The speedo cable leaked terribly. It heavily saturated the firewall sound deadening. Just the firewall sound deadening I removed weighed in at 18.1 Lbs! I was shocked to say the least.

Here's some pics of the gear oil that was leaked everywhere.

















Weighing of the firewall sound deadening alone.









As you can see the brake master cylinder was leaking just as bad. It leaked so long it overfilled the brake booster. Then leaked out the back of the booster, eating a large area of paint. Which I circled with red.





Here's the remaining sound deadening being weighed. It came in at 33.5 lbs.