Issue with aster bracket - procharger F1R
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Issue with aster bracket - procharger F1R
Good evening,
I have finally started putting my car back together but I haven't had much time to work this problem.
I have a lq4-9 iron block this bracket is mounting on, and I am noticing a 1/4 gap on the spacer where the bracket bolts into one of the alternator idler pulley.
Also the bolt that hold the procharger pulley on is hitting the serpentine belt.
I am running a CBR 8.65 8 rib crank pulley , a 4.50 pulley on my F1R.
I haven't had anytime to work the problem and was wandering if there is a good starting point.
I have finally started putting my car back together but I haven't had much time to work this problem.
I have a lq4-9 iron block this bracket is mounting on, and I am noticing a 1/4 gap on the spacer where the bracket bolts into one of the alternator idler pulley.
Also the bolt that hold the procharger pulley on is hitting the serpentine belt.
I am running a CBR 8.65 8 rib crank pulley , a 4.50 pulley on my F1R.
I haven't had anytime to work the problem and was wandering if there is a good starting point.
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Yes, that is a truck alternator.
I had both .75" diameter by .125" thick spacer on the bottom and top hex stand offs. I am not running factor transmission cooler lines for my automatic. I am running the 2.75" hex stand off on the top and the 2" hex stand off on the bottom with idler pulley installed.
Now in the aster bracket directions it say to use the 1.875" round stand off. The one that bob has sent me was 1.75". Now the procharger directions say that the 1.75" spacer is also part of the 8-rib kit.
My next question I have is about the alternator. You said that I can run a smaller head bolt for the procharger. Is that a special thread. And if I can't find a head small enough, how fast can I spin that alternator going with an alternator overdrive pulley.
I had both .75" diameter by .125" thick spacer on the bottom and top hex stand offs. I am not running factor transmission cooler lines for my automatic. I am running the 2.75" hex stand off on the top and the 2" hex stand off on the bottom with idler pulley installed.
Now in the aster bracket directions it say to use the 1.875" round stand off. The one that bob has sent me was 1.75". Now the procharger directions say that the 1.75" spacer is also part of the 8-rib kit.
My next question I have is about the alternator. You said that I can run a smaller head bolt for the procharger. Is that a special thread. And if I can't find a head small enough, how fast can I spin that alternator going with an alternator overdrive pulley.
Last edited by tilly; 08-29-2015 at 05:08 PM.
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Yes, that is a truck alternator.
I had both .75" diameter by .125" thick spacer on the bottom and top hex stand offs. I am not running factor transmission cooler lines for my automatic. I am running the 2.75" hex stand off on the top and the 2" hex stand off on the bottom with idler pulley installed.
Now in the aster bracket directions it say to use the 1.875" round stand off. The one that bob has sent me was 1.75". Now the procharger directions say that the 1.75" spacer is also part of the 8-rib kit.
My next question I have is about the alternator. You said that I can run a smaller head bolt for the procharger. Is that a special thread. And if I can't find a head small enough, how fast can I spin that alternator going with an alternator overdrive pulley.
I had both .75" diameter by .125" thick spacer on the bottom and top hex stand offs. I am not running factor transmission cooler lines for my automatic. I am running the 2.75" hex stand off on the top and the 2" hex stand off on the bottom with idler pulley installed.
Now in the aster bracket directions it say to use the 1.875" round stand off. The one that bob has sent me was 1.75". Now the procharger directions say that the 1.75" spacer is also part of the 8-rib kit.
My next question I have is about the alternator. You said that I can run a smaller head bolt for the procharger. Is that a special thread. And if I can't find a head small enough, how fast can I spin that alternator going with an alternator overdrive pulley.
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https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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So I have had a bit of time to study the installation instructions for the procharger and the aster bracket. I measured all the standoffs and spacers with my digital caliper and they were all in spec of the instructions. So I placed the 2 0.125" spacers on the hexagonal stand offs that were given to me in the installation kit.
While looking at it closely, the tensioner pulley and the CBR pulley did not look aligned but the blower pulley and tensioner pulley were. I put a Gates belt alignment tool and found that it was off by 1 rib. I removed the spacer and everything came into an alignment. And the gap between the bracket and the 1.875" round standoff and the bracket tightened up. I am missing a dust shield. Does anyone know what that part number is? Is there suppose to be a spacer that goes with the CBR 8.65" pulley?
Although, everything is now in alignment but my clearance issues have gotten much worse.
As you can see the the blower input shaft bolt and collar are hitting the alternator pulley. And the water pump pulley looks like it might interfere with the super charger belt.
The first solution I am contemplating is spacing the bracket and the pulley out 0.125, changing the blower bolt to a socket head cap bolt and possibly milling the collar a bit and the sc blower pulley. Push comes to shove I will look into an alternator over drive pulley. I am just worried about throwing things off balance and clearances in the engine bay. And it would be easier to get to that tensioner and not fighting with the power steering pulley.
The second solution I have come up with is leaving the CBR pulley where it is at and push the water pump even further. Machine the blower collar, changing the bolt and over drive pulley. OR push comes to shove run a stock alternator but I want the additional amperage out of the truck alternator. Then to make it easier to get to the super charger tensioner, I can run a billet power steering pump.
The last solution is not run the 0.100" spacer on the back of the sc blower pulley and mill the sc pulley and spacing the tensioner accordingly. There is not much room between the blower belt and the bracket. I am not too sure if the belt would be making full contact on the idler pulleys.
I know the post is long. I just want to be thorough and document my problems for other people in the future.
While looking at it closely, the tensioner pulley and the CBR pulley did not look aligned but the blower pulley and tensioner pulley were. I put a Gates belt alignment tool and found that it was off by 1 rib. I removed the spacer and everything came into an alignment. And the gap between the bracket and the 1.875" round standoff and the bracket tightened up. I am missing a dust shield. Does anyone know what that part number is? Is there suppose to be a spacer that goes with the CBR 8.65" pulley?
Although, everything is now in alignment but my clearance issues have gotten much worse.
As you can see the the blower input shaft bolt and collar are hitting the alternator pulley. And the water pump pulley looks like it might interfere with the super charger belt.
The first solution I am contemplating is spacing the bracket and the pulley out 0.125, changing the blower bolt to a socket head cap bolt and possibly milling the collar a bit and the sc blower pulley. Push comes to shove I will look into an alternator over drive pulley. I am just worried about throwing things off balance and clearances in the engine bay. And it would be easier to get to that tensioner and not fighting with the power steering pulley.
The second solution I have come up with is leaving the CBR pulley where it is at and push the water pump even further. Machine the blower collar, changing the bolt and over drive pulley. OR push comes to shove run a stock alternator but I want the additional amperage out of the truck alternator. Then to make it easier to get to the super charger tensioner, I can run a billet power steering pump.
The last solution is not run the 0.100" spacer on the back of the sc blower pulley and mill the sc pulley and spacing the tensioner accordingly. There is not much room between the blower belt and the bracket. I am not too sure if the belt would be making full contact on the idler pulleys.
I know the post is long. I just want to be thorough and document my problems for other people in the future.
Last edited by tilly; 09-07-2015 at 11:57 PM.
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I haven't had time to put the new spacers on the pulley and check the alignment. I have been out of town these last couple of months for work. Will have a better idea on how things go together in december.
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Sorry the pictures are a little big. I have finally made a little headway on my car. As you can see, the room infront of the blower for an air intake is a bit lacking and spacing out everything 0.100 makes it a bit tougher. I still need to get a Button head cap bolt to replace the current blower bolt.
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Still a work in progress. Ended up getting a smaller radiator and doing a push and pull fan setup. Still going to try to keep the AC. I will get pictures once more progress has been done. I haven't really been home all winter and most of spring to work on that car.