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Agreed with Forcefed86 on the rod bolts. To repeat my previous question in another form, when was the last time you saw an LS bottom end failure due to a broken rod bolt? I put a new set of rod bearings in mine because the original set fit a little loose into the rod end and cap. Probably due to some heavy loading or pulling a trailer or something, even though they looked great. I used stock replacement bearings, nothing fancy. From what I understand, most aftermarket bearings end up a tad looser (.0005 or so) than the stock gm bearings. But a half thou isn't gonna hurt anything IMO.
Yeah im ok with running factory bearings. Its just the whole idea of reusing 90k mile bearings is what has me thinking. when we are talking about factory replacement bearings are we talking auto zone stuff or buying bearings straight from GM
I used a Clevite passenger car bearing. No "H" bearing or coated bearings. A race bearing is narrower to allow for a radius on the crank journal. Not necessary for a stock/factory crank.
Sounds like a good idea if you can find them cheap enough. I've got a complete L33 and an LQ4 that I've used at times for mock up, but I don't feel lucky enough to try to use either.
Sounds like a good idea if you can find them cheap enough. I've got a complete L33 and an LQ4 that I've used at times for mock up, but I don't feel lucky enough to try to use either.
Yup. I got this long block for $300 so i figured why not.
What’s your time/money worth to you. If the lifters look good, it’s fairley easy to pull them apart and clean them. Soak in gas/diesel. Small piece of safety wire with a 90 bend on the end to poke down the hole and depress ball valve, Then work the cup back and forth until it pulls out. Took me about 3 hours to do 16. Not hard just time consuming. I also used some red scotch bright and cleaned up the exterior. Try to keep them in the same hole they came out of.
That said, you can get a new set of the gen4 design lifters for $99 shipped. On Ebay. I wouldn’t bother with a used set. Again your parts are mated to each other and “happy”. Anytime you install new used parts they aren’t “mated”. Better off with new IMO.
Anyways, for your budget boost setup I think you're on the right track. I'd look into swapping the 5.3 heads for 317s to drop compression and pick up cfm. With good valvetrain and clean up porting they have done well boosted in JY setups.
For a CHEAP cam the ls6 does decent with boost (more so for blowers) but IMO a true turbo cam is worth the couple hundred dollars to optimize flow and spool. One of the magic stick cams also works well in lighter chassis turbo setups, can't remember which MS3, MS4, or something like that.
What’s your time/money worth to you. If the lifters look good, it’s fairley easy to pull them apart and clean them. Soak in gas/diesel. Small piece of safety wire with a 90 bend on the end to poke down the hole and depress ball valve, Then work the cup back and forth until it pulls out. Took me about 3 hours to do 16. Not hard just time consuming. I also used some red scotch bright and cleaned up the exterior. Try to keep them in the same hole they came out of.
That said, you can get a new set of the gen4 design lifters for $99 shipped. On Ebay. I wouldn’t bother with a used set. Again your parts are mated to each other and “happy”. Anytime you install new used parts they aren’t “mated”. Better off with new IMO.
I soaked them in industrial degreaser yesterday and they look ok.. Spending 3 hrs to clean them up sounds less than appealing to me.. Especially with a 6 month old and a wife that thinks my garage is where the devil was conceived. Ill agree that buying used internal engine components is far from a good idea.. Probably just easier to buy the lifters than listen to my wife complain.
Where did you find that deal? Hook a brotha up lol
FB man! Found a guy off of 249. It is missing the oil pump though... Ill agree with the cam idea. id rather just spend the coin on a decent cam. I was doing some reading on the 862 heads and they don't seem to bad.. the 9:4.1 CR appeals to me. I don't see a huge gain in paying for 317's as this isnt really a max effort "build" Where they lack in size they will make up in compression.
Are you going to be putting it all together in your devil-breeding garage?
I thought you mentioned it being blueprinted. If it's being assembled by a shop, new bearings and lifters and whatever else should not be a problem. Yes, the parts now are nice and mated and matched with 90k miles on them, but new parts properly installed to the correct tolerances definitely should, in theory, always be better.
Everyone is asking if you have ever seen a LSx fail due to a rod bolt or maincap bolt... The real question is, do you want to be the first?
Are you going to be putting it all together in your devil-breeding garage?
I thought you mentioned it being blueprinted. If it's being assembled by a shop, new bearings and lifters and whatever else should not be a problem. Yes, the parts now are nice and mated and matched with 90k miles on them, but new parts properly installed to the correct tolerances definitely should, in theory, always be better.
Everyone is asking if you have ever seen a LSx fail due to a rod bolt or maincap bolt... The real question is, do you want to be the first?
Engine is being prepared in my garage. I am doing the Blueprinting of the motor. I agree that new bearings/rings are a good idea and will be used. as far as rod bolts/main studs are concerned im ok with using factory components.
If you really wanted a cheap cam, might consider the LS9/ZR1 grind. Hard to beat for around $100, I really liked mine. Alot of the guys harp on it for its lack of power down low. I actually think that helps keep the SBE stuff alive. Also great for traction. Literally felt like a 100 shot of nitrous around 5500 with that cam. Tight converter making tons of power at low RPM is a great way to bend the rods.
My first 8 sec motor was a $220 5.3, 8.6:1 with an LS9 cam. (317 heads, dished pistons, ls9 gasket). Made boost quick with the 17 blade 9.5 PTC converter. 1.3 60’s with 3.10 gears and 29” tires. Pac1218’s with 100% OEM valve train, never revved much over 6500. Great low budget engine that made manageable power under 5k RPM and retardo power above 5k.
Noted. The cam bearings however are junk and need changing.
I have to tell you the cam bearing scare me the most out of all the bearings in these engines. Consensus believes that GM lined honed the cam bearings after they were installed to true them up. Replacing them is risky.
Originally Posted by Forcefed86
If you really wanted a cheap cam, might consider the LS9/ZR1 grind. Hard to beat for around $100, I really liked mine. Alot of the guys harp on it for its lack of power down low. I actually think that helps keep the SBE stuff alive. Also great for traction. Literally felt like a 100 shot of nitrous around 5500 with that cam. Tight converter making tons of power at low RPM is a great way to bend the rods.
My first 8 sec motor was a $220 5.3, 8.6:1 with an LS9 cam. (317 heads, dished pistons, ls9 gasket). Made boost quick with the 17 blade 9.5 PTC converter. 1.3 60’s with 3.10 gears and 29” tires. Pac1218’s with 100% OEM valve train, never revved much over 6500. Great low budget engine that made manageable power under 5k RPM and retardo power above 5k.
I love that combo! Very easy to duplicate, cheap(er) and very effective!
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