200 MPH Standing Mile 4L80 Guys
#1
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200 MPH Standing Mile 4L80 Guys
Looking for advice on parts and any tips/tricks to order to get my 80E installed in my 97 WS6 and make it live for more than a few runs.
Little background on the car... It's a 408 LS I built with all forged internals, 9.4:1 compression, Tick cam, AI 317s, single plain. Car made 471 whp on motor through a 6 speed but now has a pair of PTE6766 turbos hanging off the sides of it.
The car is a bit of a bruiser. It's full weight (~3800 lbs with me in it), all accessories with a goal of 200+ mph in the standing mile. The lowest gears I can get for my 9" are 3.25:1 which means the transmission must go into 4th gear to get me there.
So far my parts list includes the following:
Output shaft & tail housing (2wd conversion)
Transgo HD-2 Shift kit
New clutches
New wiring harness
I'm debating on whether or not I need a new front hub or not. I will probably order a new main and input shaft though.
I don't want/need a manual valve body or a transbrake as this is primarily a street car that I intend to drive a whole lot more.
Little background on the car... It's a 408 LS I built with all forged internals, 9.4:1 compression, Tick cam, AI 317s, single plain. Car made 471 whp on motor through a 6 speed but now has a pair of PTE6766 turbos hanging off the sides of it.
The car is a bit of a bruiser. It's full weight (~3800 lbs with me in it), all accessories with a goal of 200+ mph in the standing mile. The lowest gears I can get for my 9" are 3.25:1 which means the transmission must go into 4th gear to get me there.
So far my parts list includes the following:
Output shaft & tail housing (2wd conversion)
Transgo HD-2 Shift kit
New clutches
New wiring harness
I'm debating on whether or not I need a new front hub or not. I will probably order a new main and input shaft though.
I don't want/need a manual valve body or a transbrake as this is primarily a street car that I intend to drive a whole lot more.
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I already have the 4L80 and I don't really want to build a TH400 and buy a GV unit. Not saying it wouldn't work but I'm trying to keep this somewhat simple. Basically something that I can start, drop into gear and drive without having to remember to turn on fuel pumps, ignition boxes, fans or overdrive.
#4
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The biggest thing is a pro builder or someone that knows what they are doing. There is a lot more to keeping one alive than the parts that go in it. Assuming you run the twin setup around 1000whp I'd recommend an input shaft, 36 element drum, forged clutch hub, and mods for wot 4th. A Circle D multidisc lockup converter would be on the list as well. Make sure everything else is up to snuff. Will the cage and safety gear save you in a crash? Tires speed rated? SFI bellhousing? Aero work?
#5
8 Second Club
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You can’t go from a 1.0 to a .75 OD gear and expect the trans to last long at that power level/weight. Even built to the hilt by the best company out there, it’s not gonna last long.
Get a rear end with the proper rear gearing and keep it in 3rd. And or run a tall enough tire to hit your goal in 3rd. (or rev the engine higher) That’s all there is to it… Doing it right once will be MUCH cheaper in the end.
You can get much lower gears for a 9" why do you say 3.25 is the lowest? I've run 3.10 ebay ex nascar gears. They are cheap and I've seen them as low as 2.75. There are also 2.50 gears for 9" fords. (found in the old Lincolns)
Heres a 2.86... and 3.0... My set was lightened and polished and I beat the crap out of them with 24lb trans brake launches. Never skipped a beat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151875088872?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151875082008?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
Get a rear end with the proper rear gearing and keep it in 3rd. And or run a tall enough tire to hit your goal in 3rd. (or rev the engine higher) That’s all there is to it… Doing it right once will be MUCH cheaper in the end.
You can get much lower gears for a 9" why do you say 3.25 is the lowest? I've run 3.10 ebay ex nascar gears. They are cheap and I've seen them as low as 2.75. There are also 2.50 gears for 9" fords. (found in the old Lincolns)
Heres a 2.86... and 3.0... My set was lightened and polished and I beat the crap out of them with 24lb trans brake launches. Never skipped a beat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151875088872?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151875082008?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
Last edited by Forcefed86; 11-19-2015 at 10:01 AM.
#7
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Unless you have a special 9" axle, that can't accept regular 9" gears, then you should seriously consider changing to a flatter rear gear and keep the abusive driving in 3rd gear on the transmission.
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#8
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I like your goal(200 in the half) but you'll need about 1200-1400rwhp in something like that I think to achieve 200...(1100whp I think would be about 190 if you put the power down and have decent aero/weight). Most surfaces that these half mile events are at are usually dusty...and difficult to apply the power. I would plan your build(transmission) for about 1300rwhp type of abuse, not 1k.
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Sorry, I checked and I see made a mistake. I do see a 3:1 ratio offered but I'm not seeing any company offering anything taller unless it's an unlisted special order deal. I'll check that out next week and see what I can find.
Unfortunately even with the 2.86 gears I would still need to shift into 4th to nudge it past 200 because I won't cut any more metal out of the car to mount a bigger tire. 28" tires are it.
The 9" isn't anything special.
Moser 9"
Aluminum center, big bearings
35 Spline axles, gun drilled
Detroit locker
plugs
3.50 gears currently
I take it you're headed to the airstrip attack in Ocala? I'm probably headed down there to watch but my old girl won't be ready by then unfortunately.
But yes, full mile racing. I came pretty close at 800 whp with my LT1 setup before life got in the way and forced me to quit for a while. Now I'm back to finish what I started.
Unfortunately even with the 2.86 gears I would still need to shift into 4th to nudge it past 200 because I won't cut any more metal out of the car to mount a bigger tire. 28" tires are it.
The 9" isn't anything special.
Moser 9"
Aluminum center, big bearings
35 Spline axles, gun drilled
Detroit locker
plugs
3.50 gears currently
But yes, full mile racing. I came pretty close at 800 whp with my LT1 setup before life got in the way and forced me to quit for a while. Now I'm back to finish what I started.
#15
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Are you willing to lift a little during the 3-4 shift or wait until you are in 4th to lock the converter? We waited unit well into 4th to lock the converter on my home made 80e, it did fine at Bonneville with stock hub, shafts, etc and 700 whp. The builders are all going to say don't do it, but I think a "stockish" 80e is tougher than they are willing to say openly...
Side note: You can get a 2.5 ratio gear set for a 9" from a mid 70's Lincoln if you look around...
Side note: You can get a 2.5 ratio gear set for a 9" from a mid 70's Lincoln if you look around...
#16
9 Second Club
#17
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For safety's sake, I would to tuck the biggest tire I can under there.
My car with a 3.55 and 27" tire puts me at 150 mph through the traps at 6600 RPM. This is with an 80e.
For you to do it in third with a 6600 RPM redline, you would need a 32" tire and a 3.10 gear, or a 30" tire and a 2.89 gear.
Call up Jakes Performance. They specialize in the 4L80e. I know there are a few of his transmissions out there in 1000 HP 8000 lb trucks going into overdrive. When I decide I need more trans that a stock 80e, that is where I'll be going.
My car with a 3.55 and 27" tire puts me at 150 mph through the traps at 6600 RPM. This is with an 80e.
For you to do it in third with a 6600 RPM redline, you would need a 32" tire and a 3.10 gear, or a 30" tire and a 2.89 gear.
Call up Jakes Performance. They specialize in the 4L80e. I know there are a few of his transmissions out there in 1000 HP 8000 lb trucks going into overdrive. When I decide I need more trans that a stock 80e, that is where I'll be going.
#19
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Just gotta look… Zero reason to go into 4th.
2.75 OEM gear for $50. Tons of others if you search.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rat-street-r...5WEtpx&vxp=mtr
$70 2.50
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Ford-Facto...BWPRXd&vxp=mtr
Most of the mile/salt guys use the quick change style rears. You're stuck with OEM gear using a 9". Should be fine IMO. Lots of guys running them and you're progressively applying power.
2.75 OEM gear for $50. Tons of others if you search.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rat-street-r...5WEtpx&vxp=mtr
$70 2.50
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Ford-Facto...BWPRXd&vxp=mtr
Most of the mile/salt guys use the quick change style rears. You're stuck with OEM gear using a 9". Should be fine IMO. Lots of guys running them and you're progressively applying power.
#20
TECH Senior Member
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I take it you're headed to the airstrip attack in Ocala? I'm probably headed down there to watch but my old girl won't be ready by then unfortunately.
But yes, full mile racing. I came pretty close at 800 whp with my LT1 setup before life got in the way and forced me to quit for a while. Now I'm back to finish what I started.
Yessir. WannaGoFast event late January. My car has been apart basically 6 years...2.5 years ago it was working and driving for a month then broke some parts....so back apart it went. It's been and continues to be a battle for me recently having spine surgery.
I'll be out there though...one way or the other. Blue C5 Z06(black wheels-cage-cousin) and my white C5(black wheels-naca ducts on hood). Hope to see many more boosted LS cars again. Best wishes on your mission dude.