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Sweet Pea 1968 Chevy II Moar Door 4.8/7675/PG

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Old 02-23-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 350SS
awesome progress...what do you paint the radiator with so it doesn't insulate it?
Any flat black spray paint. A thin coat doesn't insulate anything, the color and sheen have a greater effect on thermal conduction (becasue science). The darker and duller a finish, the better is conducts thermal energy. The lighter and shinier, the poorer it conducts thermal energy.
If you don't believe it, look up the test the mighty car mod guys did with an A2A intercooler in raw aluminum vs painted.

Last edited by Guard dog; 02-23-2016 at 08:31 PM.
Old 02-23-2016, 05:35 PM
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I found the MCM link:
Old 02-23-2016, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Guard dog
Don't know off the top of my head but it is a LJMS stage 2 turbo cam.
I'm going to be running one of LJMS's turbo cams in my 4.8 build. What size pushrods did you use?

I have 862 heads that have PAC1219s in them (.625 lift). Other than that, my heads are stock. Trying to figure out if stock size 7.400" pushrods is what I need if I go with LJMS Stage 1 Turbo Cam?

Edit: however, if his stage 2 cam will work fine in a stock 4.8 then I would like to do his stage 2 like you've got.
Old 02-23-2016, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Guard dog
Any flat black spray paint. A thin coat doesn't insulate anything, the color and sheen have a greater effect on thermal conduction (becasue science). The darker and duller a finish, the better is conducts thermal energy. The lighter and shinier, the poorer it conducts thermal energy.
If you don't believe it, look up the test the mighty car mod guys did with an A2A intercooler in raw aluminum vs painted.
I watched the vid and my understanding is when radiative heat transfer is dominant (no external air flow) the black intercooler worked better (because black surface emits more radiation energy) and when convective heat transfer is dominant (external cross flow) the unpainted intercooler was slightly (3 deg) better. at any rate, I would have figured the paint would have insulated more but it guess not...carry on
Old 02-23-2016, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NateLS1Mustang
I'm going to be running one of LJMS's turbo cams in my 4.8 build. What size pushrods did you use?

I have 862 heads that have PAC1219s in them (.625 lift). Other than that, my heads are stock. Trying to figure out if stock size 7.400" pushrods is what I need if I go with LJMS Stage 1 Turbo Cam?

Edit: however, if his stage 2 cam will work fine in a stock 4.8 then I would like to do his stage 2 like you've got.
Standard length pushrods.


Originally Posted by 350SS
I watched the vid and my understanding is when radiative heat transfer is dominant (no external air flow) the black intercooler worked better (because black surface emits more radiation energy) and when convective heat transfer is dominant (external cross flow) the unpainted intercooler was slightly (3 deg) better. at any rate, I would have figured the paint would have insulated more but it guess not...carry on
I was shocked how big a difference painting the intercooler black made when I first saw that video. I only painted the radiator to keep the front of the car looking stock but it will actually help keeping it cool at idle/stop and go traffic.
At highway speed it won't matter.
Sorry if my original reply read harshly, I didn't mean it that way.
Old 02-23-2016, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Guard dog
Standard length pushrods
Thank you sir! Been trying to get an answer on this for last couple days lol.
Old 02-24-2016, 11:02 AM
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What are you using to fire the 4.8? Stock computer and hp tuners?
Old 02-24-2016, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Guard dog
Sorry if my original reply read harshly, I didn't mean it that way.
no worries, I didn't take it that way just was seeing if I was missing something...reading comprehension is not my strong point
Old 02-24-2016, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 66Chevellelq4
What are you using to fire the 4.8? Stock computer and hp tuners?
Correct, 0411 PCM and hptuners.
Old 02-24-2016, 08:33 PM
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Here is a quick video of Sweet Pea making some choo-choo noises:

Followed by her maiden voyage moving under her own power!

The brakes are terrible and the suspension is shot. The roads were wet and she is wearing slicks so no crazy antics.
I have some upgrades planned for the suspension to make her 60' decently, just waiting for parts. I think she'll need a different rear end becasue I don't think the 48 year old 10 bolt will hold up to the turbo power and transbrake. I'll probably go with a ford 8.8 for a good balance of cost effectiveness and strength...and the snowball keeps getting bigger.
Old 02-24-2016, 10:27 PM
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beautiful, flawless victory
Old 02-24-2016, 10:28 PM
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we just did a 69 coronet
installed a 8.8 rear and mono leaf's
Old 02-29-2016, 03:45 PM
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A few updates.
I hope to have an 8.8 this week. Gonna narrow it and move the shocks inboard to allow the rear tires to tuck some. That should also give enough room for a 275 but I think the 235 will give me all the traction I can use on this set up.

Test fit the dog dish wheels on some 235 MT radials and I like the nostalgic look
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Dump tube installed on wastegate. It just dumps inside the wheelwell before the front tire.
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Hose for the A2W intercooler system run from trunk to engine bay. I plan to tuck the hose under the carpet at some point.
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:02 PM
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I took off the straight downpipe and built a short exhaust using the dyno max muffler that came with the car. I added a mechanical boost activated cutout that I had leftover from another project that didn't end up using it.
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So the exhaust is a 3.5" system with the 3" mechanical cutout that is straight in line with the downpipe. The muffled exhaust branches off at a 45 degree angle from the down tube. It quieted the car down significantly and should open under boost once I get a manifold vacuum/boost source plumbed (I ran out of hose and vacuum Ts). I would have preferred a smaller diamter for the muffler but I used what I had. You can't hear the turbo at all now, even when you stab the throttle. I got a video to show how quiet it is but the cutout is not plumbed to a boost source yet.

I'll post a new video once the cutouts are working.
The next big step will be completion of the intercooler circuit, then focus on the suspension/rear end.
We will probably get her running with the stock computer first but I'd eventually like to put a plug and play gold box on Sweet Pea.

Last edited by Guard dog; 02-29-2016 at 05:46 PM.
Old 02-29-2016, 06:35 PM
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Wow that's quiet! I plan on running 4" out the back. Probably won't even hear it running. Hey, scrub the "M/T" off the tire! Kills the sleeper vibe. It's like having a sleeping bag with a glory hole! Nice work. I like the intercooler placement.
Old 02-29-2016, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 3 window
Wow that's quiet! I plan on running 4" out the back. Probably won't even hear it running. Hey, scrub the "M/T" off the tire! Kills the sleeper vibe. It's like having a sleeping bag with a glory hole! Nice work. I like the intercooler placement.
Thanks. Yeah, the MT will come off. If anybody has any insight on how to make a factory looking whitewall, I could use some input. I'd like to make the mickeys look like thin whitewalls. I'm kicking around the idea of using white plastidip if I can make a perfectly round stencil.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:17 PM
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It's easier than you think & no painting needed.

If the tire has white lettering there is a white rubber band attached to the side wall at manufacturing. They then put a thin layer over the whitewall rubber to make the lettering so the "MT" you see is the whitewall band showing through that overlay.

Use a mild abrasive wheel on a drill to remove the black rubber overlay to make the stripe the size you want it to be using any form of template line you can come up with. (I have used a compass by going around the tire outside & bead to make a mark you can follow)

Last edited by gtfoxy; 02-29-2016 at 08:28 PM.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy
It's easier than you think & no painting needed.

If the tire has white lettering there is a white rubber band attached to the side wall at manufacturing. They then put a thin layer over the whitewall rubber to make the lettering so the "MT" you see is the whitewall band showing through that overlay.

Use a mild abrasive wheel on a drill to remove the black rubber overlay to make the stripe the size you want it to be using any form of template line you can come up with. (I have used a compass by going around the tire outside & bead to make a mark you can follow)
Thank you. I'll give that a try sometime.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:58 PM
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Welcome.
Old 03-01-2016, 09:49 PM
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Gas tank that came with the car had a small leak. New gas tank for a 1968 nova is $90 which is worth not having to pull, drain and weld the 48 year old tank. The new tank will get a sump welded in.
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Coolant lines are plumbed into the A2W intercooler.
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The process of converting the 1960s vintage beer cooler into an A2W ice tank has begun. It should be functional as well as stylish. Hot tub style PVC bulkheads are plumbed into the back for inlet, outlet and drain. All the lines are run to the back so it will just look like a period correct cooler when I pop the trunk. The hinged lid will make adding ice a snap. I'll probably leave a beer bottle in there all the time lol.
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The Rule 2000 pump will live in the corner of the cooler and be hooked to a switch in the cabin so it doesn't have to run all the time. That will allow me to fill it to the brim with ice and turn it on when I pull up for the burnout.

I am debating just running 93 octane and adding meth since e85 isn't available at the pump near me, although I'd love to run e85. This may be a good excuse to pick up a gold box and go flex fuel. Anybody looking for a stock PCM and wiring harness already stripped down for an LS swap?

Last edited by Guard dog; 03-01-2016 at 10:25 PM.


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