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Water/Meth will probably save your engine.

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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 12:54 PM
  #21  
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What's with the IAT? 54F at 30 psi -- do you have a perfect intercooler?
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 12:58 PM
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My IATs don't climb too much. It was 45 degrees out, I run a 4" thick intercooler that is wide open to the air, and the turbo gets nice fresh supply of cold air. The highest I've seen them is 140 degrees after 30 or so dyno pulls, but again it was 40 degrees that night lol.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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Does this motor have stock internals?
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:11 PM
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Bone stock bottom end.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:52 PM
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Can you explain the injector duty cycle to me? I was at one time thinking 100% meant they were open 100% of the time. ..... 170% would then be impossible. I am mostly concerned with my MS Iroc, but am over 100% at max boost without meth,but with meth(50/50) I am able to lower them and AFR are good.

thanks!


All my cars I've tuned with HpTuners are NA
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:57 PM
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Duty cycle is calculated by (pulse width/cycle time).
If your pulse width is at say 20ms, and it's only taking 10ms to do a full cycle, the ECU will calculate your duty cycle at 200%. But yes, anything over 100% is always open.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Duty cycle is calculated by (pulse width/cycle time).
If your pulse width is at say 20ms, and it's only taking 10ms to do a full cycle, the ECU will calculate your duty cycle at 200%. But yes, anything over 100% is always open.
OK..... I THINK I understand more.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 01:47 PM
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I use water on every engine I own, if just for its cleaning capability. I've never had engines come apart looking so clean, like brand new almost. one of my biggest problems for years was the crusty coating of carbon buildup that seems to sit right between the piston and cylinder wall, and on the valves, it was hard and tough to remove even with the piston out in your hands, I got really sick of seeing it all the time. I am also "aware" of it while driving and it makes me cringe to think about it scraping up and down the cylinder walls. Probably just an OCD thing
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 05:05 PM
  #29  
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So you screwed up the install of the wastegate but are relying on not doing the same to the added pump, lines, nozzles, and tank that can run empty?
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
So you screwed up the install of the wastegate but are relying on not doing the same to the added pump, lines, nozzles, and tank that can run empty?
You left out not watching the laptop, or some other form of O2 or EGT monitoring.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 09:26 PM
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I didn't screw up the wastegate install lol. And I don't stare at the laptop in the passenger seat doing WOT pulls either.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 05:51 AM
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Your wastegate issue is a perfect example of why all of us car guys in this hobby need to stay vigilant about inspecting new parts before installing them, especially with the influx of chinese junk.
I just finished a new turbo combo on my evo last weekend and used a EMUSA gate. I completely took it apart and did the usual cleaning and finger banging of a shiney new part. I am pretty sure i would have caught a coil bind issue if there was one.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 07:34 AM
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I bench test my wastegates before installing them with my compressor, a boost gauge, and a regulator, as I did this one. No coil bind was noticed while bench testing on and off of the car.

We think the cheap spring was flexing or spreading and binding with the outer spring once hot. We tested it on the car after it had reached operating temps and noticed the bind. The spring looked fine when removed.

This thread isn't about being a dick and pointing the finger at someone to point out their mistakes, its the merits of water injection when those mistakes are made or failures occur.
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mshadow
Alky Control and a straight meth is a better way to go
^ This.

People that run windshield wiper fluid..... SMH
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
And I don't stare at the laptop in the passenger seat doing WOT pulls either.
So, no boost & O2 guage where you can see them? Gotta watch those things like a hawk when you're on it hard. Three must haves IMO, boost, O2 & FP. & EGT is nice also...

Don't get me wrong, it happens to the best of us. I've even made the mistake of hooking a wastegate hosing wrong even though I'd done it I dont know how many times. Long day or something... Got on the tranbrake for the first time expecting to see 8psi & it spiked past 20 in a heartbeat, but I was watching the gauge & was able to get out of it. Still about pissed myself..
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:19 PM
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The biggest problem with meth/alky injection is the fact that once you tune your car for the meth your now relying on the meth pump to keep your motor alive. if the pump takes a **** then your motor will likely take one too.

Cheap kits like yours have no safety net like the aquamist or other $800+ injection systems. The other great part about your budget meth kit is that it will fall apart after a year or 2 max if you run meth because its so corrosive. Alky is not nearly as hard on the pump but more expensive than meth and you dont get the octane boost.

Call any top ls1 tuner and ask them if they recommend running a meth kit and id be surprised to hear anyone of them say yes. run e85 or race gas, meth/alky is just a bandaid and maybe in your case it helped. Many people like myself arent gonna bet a $4000+ motor on the reliability of a $200 meth pump...
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
^ This.

People that run windshield wiper fluid..... SMH
I 100% attribute the water that was being sprayed to saving my engine. People who think pure meth is the only way to go..... Typically Uneducated.
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls1Rx-7
The biggest problem with meth/alky injection is the fact that once you tune your car for the meth your now relying on the meth pump to keep your motor alive. if the pump takes a **** then your motor will likely take one too.

Cheap kits like yours have no safety net like the aquamist or other $800+ injection systems. The other great part about your budget meth kit is that it will fall apart after a year or 2 max if you run meth because its so corrosive. Alky is not nearly as hard on the pump but more expensive than meth and you dont get the octane boost.

Call any top ls1 tuner and ask them if they recommend running a meth kit and id be surprised to hear anyone of them say yes. run e85 or race gas, meth/alky is just a bandaid and maybe in your case it helped. Many people like myself arent gonna bet a $4000+ motor on the reliability of a $200 meth pump...
I don't see it as a bandaid in anyway. I wouldn't run a turbo car without one. It's very easy to implement an AFR safety setup on any Aux inj. kit. My MS3 box does it. I believe most decent aftermarket ECU's will.

If one of your fuel system components fail without the proper safety system in place, the result would be the same. A properly maintained alky kit is no more or less reliable than a fuel injector or a fuel pump. It's pretty much the same thing.

The diaphragm style Alky pumps are VERY reliable. I've used them for many many years and never had an issue. They are designed for constant duty. So they last a very long time on a aux inj setup. The push to connect fittings used don't get along with methanol, you need and the proper lines/fittings to run straight meth.
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls1Rx-7
The biggest problem with meth/alky injection is the fact that once you tune your car for the meth your now relying on the meth pump to keep your motor alive. if the pump takes a **** then your motor will likely take one too.

Cheap kits like yours have no safety net like the aquamist or other $800+ injection systems. The other great part about your budget meth kit is that it will fall apart after a year or 2 max if you run meth because its so corrosive. Alky is not nearly as hard on the pump but more expensive than meth and you dont get the octane boost.

Call any top ls1 tuner and ask them if they recommend running a meth kit and id be surprised to hear anyone of them say yes. run e85 or race gas, meth/alky is just a bandaid and maybe in your case it helped. Many people like myself arent gonna bet a $4000+ motor on the reliability of a $200 meth pump...
There is a point at which the amount of money you spend on the engine will dictate whether you will use meth or go straight to E85 or beyond.

For example, If I put together a $10,000 engine and my car is worth 50k, I will probably not mind using E85 and calling it a day.

On the other hand, if I have a junkyard $450 longblock, and I am just squeezing it for every last penny, it would be desirable to install a methanol injection system, since the power output capacity is so much lower than a fully forged built engine, I will not be pushing against the limits of my fuel very hard (trying to keep the cast pistons alive).

And you do not necessarily NEED to tune it to run *only* with methanol. For example, I might know that my engine is fine at 10psi of boost without it... but just having it for extra safety (use more water to keep the fuel component from influencing a/f too much) is fine, and if it shuts off at that boost level or the nozzle clogs... nothing happens because it was fine without it. In this case, methanol/water is just extra safety headroom. And on the day you DO want to run up the boost/power you triple check everything and have the weeks or months of prior reliability footprint (having used the system already for weeks/months reliably) gives you the confidence to run it hard that one time.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I don't see it as a bandaid in anyway. I wouldn't run a turbo car without one. It's very easy to implement an AFR safety setup on any Aux inj. kit. My MS3 box does it. I believe most decent aftermarket ECU's will.

If one of your fuel system components fail without the proper safety system in place, the result would be the same. A properly maintained alky kit is no more or less reliable than a fuel injector or a fuel pump. It's pretty much the same thing.

The diaphragm style Alky pumps are VERY reliable. I've used them for many many years and never had an issue. They are designed for constant duty. So they last a very long time on a aux inj setup. The push to connect fittings used don't get along with methanol, you need and the proper lines/fittings to run straight meth.
Its absolutely a band aid in that you are relying on IAT's and the other properties of the water/meth injector for proper operation of your engine under boost. The argument that a stock fuel system will cause the same issue is not apples to apples. If I have a fuel pump die or a fuel injector get stuck closed, I have zero fuel. No fuel, no combustion and it won't blow anything up. Look at the N20 guys, you won't blow up from being too lean, you'll blow up from combustion pressures and too much timing. Now lets take the water/meth addition. You tuned to XX degrees of timing with the addition of meth/water and your meth pump dies or gets clogged. Now you are overtimed for your combination as its straight pump gas again. I would never run it on a street car that rarely sees the track. Tune it right on pump and it'll run all day without issue. Any if you're not watching your gauges when at WOT, thats your own fault if you blow something up. If you drop timing to nothing above your boost level as you mentioned that solves your over boost condition anyways.
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