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I have a build thread in drag racing. ls1tech.com/.../1779971-project-lsxpress-272-top-dragster.html The engine has never been fired.
I have built a 365" LS2 for it and I am in the process of re-doing some things on the engine. Originally I had a stock crank, K1 rods, Wiseco pistons. The block is filled to the deck, and has a DM performance main girdle with ARP main studs. The heads were 317s hand ported with Ferrea stainless intakes, and inconel ex. Cam is a Comp 285r turbo cam. (Not opposed to switching that either.
I have torn the engine back down and am up grading to the S718 wrist pins and a new 3.622" K1 forged crank. I now have to decide on weather to upgrade heads or not. The 317s are milled .030" and filled with a special blend of machinist grout and aluminum shavings. I am not sure that that was such a good idea. I have a good set of 243 heads and a brand new set of 823 castings. I am running straight methanol, if you haven't figured that out yet. I am wanting to dry deck the heads and run water in the heads only. If I do the 243's I can reuse my valves, and be just under 10.0-1 compression. with the 823's I would be about .7points down on compression and have to buy $600 worth of valves. Intakes do not matter as I am putting my ls1 super vic up for sale and will either use a pro flo or a hi ram. I am looking to make 1500+crank Hp and the car will only way 1650-1675lbs with me in it.
I hope you guys can help me decide. O and by the way, I am using 2 s369sxe turbos on it.
You need to check out the current build I'm doing for the truck. I run an iron 6.0 block that is filled to the deck. Then I had the water holes in the heads welded up for a true dry deck set up. I also upgraded to 1/2" studs. We are gonna feed water into the exhaust side of the heads via -6 lines under the ex ports aimed right at the top of the combustion chamber. Then we milled, drilled and tapped the old stem ports to accept a 3/8" pipe thread fitting. We are gonna use these with either a -8 or -10 to return back to the radiator. So no water in the block, no water between the block and head and water in the heads only. I'm also doing the methanol thing.
You need to check out the current build I'm doing for the truck. I run an iron 6.0 block that is filled to the deck. Then I had the water holes in the heads welded up for a true dry deck set up. I also upgraded to 1/2" studs. We are gonna feed water into the exhaust side of the heads via -6 lines under the ex ports aimed right at the top of the combustion chamber. Then we milled, drilled and tapped the old stem ports to accept a 3/8" pipe thread fitting. We are gonna use these with either a -8 or -10 to return back to the radiator. So no water in the block, no water between the block and head and water in the heads only. I'm also doing the methanol thing.
After talking with Jason at Texas Speed, I am going to use the 243's and weld the decks up. I can use my existing valves and have a stronger head with a better combustion chamber. I am going to weld -10 AN fittings where the freeze plugs are on the ends of the heads and just put water in the heads for a run and then monitor water temps with sending units in both heads. I can drain the water after a pass but I doubt I will need to. I am guessing that I won't see water temps much over 200 degrees. I am sending the heads to Texas Speed for full cnc PRC treatment. Your set up is an awesome idea. I am sure that will work great.
If you're gonna pull water out of the sides of the heads, there is a specific side you need to do it on, as on side will prevent decent flow. Kurt Urban has posted about this several times and is actually his preferred way of doing it. I can't remember if you pull water out of the back of the passenger head and front of the driver, or the other way around. Do a search........if you don't find the answer and I run across it, I'll post up for you.
If you're gonna pull water out of the sides of the heads, there is a specific side you need to do it on, as on side will prevent decent flow. Kurt Urban has posted about this several times and is actually his preferred way of doing it. I can't remember if you pull water out of the back of the passenger head and front of the driver, or the other way around. Do a search........if you don't find the answer and I run across it, I'll post up for you.
Thanks I will look. The only problem I see is that the freeze plugs are up a little so I won't be able to drain completely but I don't think that will be a big deal. I am leaving the stock valves and springs in while I weld them up. I will move around and not get too much heat in them an the seats should stay put. I was going to fill them with salt and then put a little jb weld in the jackets then weld the decks over that. Once I get them all closed up, I can drain the salt from the side holes and flush them with water. Think that will work?
Interesting. Never hear of the salt thing. When mine where done, they just welded the wholes up, slowly building it up until closed, then the decks where cut back flat. A very slight touch up on the valve job and all was good. Matter of fact, the valve may have just lapped back in.
Yea with aluminum I could just weld it slowly and build it up. On the big holes I was going to cut some pieces of 1/4" 6061 and put them in so I don't have as much hole to weld.
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Project LSXpress pt 2 
