99 turbo ta mostly china build
this is the adapter you need if I'm thinking of the correct year.
Auto Meter 2268 LS Series Oil Pressure Sender Adapter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2268
Auto Meter 2268 LS Series Oil Pressure Sender Adapter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2268
They are cx racing headers. its an ok kit but im gonna have spark plug wire issues with them. def cant change spark plugs with them bolted tight. and as far as the oil pressure sensor i think we found one thatll work. looked up a sensor for a 98 ls1 and it seems to be the correct set up. we will find out tomorrow.
harness on and going into the cradle
heres how i pick the front of the car up to slide cradle in.
in the cradle. So much room for activities with the solid mounts
clutch and bell housing on.
trans bolted up
now i would have had all this done last night butttttt of course there was a wicked storm and we didn't have any power. ran to my buddies a town a way to grab a generator and when i got back power was back on. would have started wrenching but i had the little one to watch while the wife was at work. thats all i can do for today also but tomorrow should be very promising since the wife is off work. only thing is I'm not sure what I'm going to do for spark plug wires. thinking about order the lt1 wires but they're long. but they should work.
oil pressure sensor from a 98 ls1 car works for the 5.3s if anyone is wondering. picked it up today. so until i get wires in i don't see the car firing up. going to shove it in the body atleast tomorrow. getting close but so far away.
ordered the plug wires just now. some lt1 wires for12 bucks shipped brand new off rock auto. Thanks Denmah for sloppy wiki. thats where i got the idea from. any other plug set up was 50 to 150 which is fine but I'm cheap lol. we shall see how they work out. says they won't be here till the 4th so i may as well throw the fuel system together while i wait. got to cut core support yet to stand up radiator. I'm gonna try and run stock fans but I'm not sure how it'll work yet. the cx kit is designed so you don't have to stand up the radiator. wish me luck. more updates tomorrow.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
Beautiful build, kinda laughed when I saw the pic of the cam on the kitchen counter. My wife would have had a stroke of she seen me do that lol. I think most here can appreciate a new cam on the counter.....the ladies not so much.
thanks man. believe it or not i got me a unicorn per say. shes all about the car build. she likes to go fast. she supports it all. lol
little update. got the new pressure sensor. put it in. then went to hook up harness to it. guess what now its a 2 pin instead of a single pin. at this point im sick of tring to make the factory dummy gauge work. so i bought a little mechanical gauge for time being and drilled and tapped the broken sensor for the gauge fittings. then i proceeded to put it in to tight and broke the threads off in the block. we all know how much room is back there.
so out came the motor and trans again. took the other broken sensor i had and just filled it with a epoxy. screw it on there and boom plug made. also took the epoxy and went around the vaccum port thing on the back of the intake. havent read any reasons why people do it but kept seeing it on pictures so i figured it might be a boost leak later on. so motor back in and i think i orded the last fitting for the fuel system. 5/16s y for the pumps. if parts come in this weekend im firing her up.
little update. got the new pressure sensor. put it in. then went to hook up harness to it. guess what now its a 2 pin instead of a single pin. at this point im sick of tring to make the factory dummy gauge work. so i bought a little mechanical gauge for time being and drilled and tapped the broken sensor for the gauge fittings. then i proceeded to put it in to tight and broke the threads off in the block. we all know how much room is back there.
so out came the motor and trans again. took the other broken sensor i had and just filled it with a epoxy. screw it on there and boom plug made. also took the epoxy and went around the vaccum port thing on the back of the intake. havent read any reasons why people do it but kept seeing it on pictures so i figured it might be a boost leak later on. so motor back in and i think i orded the last fitting for the fuel system. 5/16s y for the pumps. if parts come in this weekend im firing her up.
its already back in. pulled and put back in last night. yea its a little dirty but the car isnt perfect either currently. bought it kinda wrecked. passenger side fender broke and bumper support pushed in a little. minor stuff. but itll probably be painted next winter so the thorough cleaning will be then. just looking to get on the road this year.
so what do you think about doing a manual tranny with the turbo with all the hype about auto's being better with no boost drop off between shifts? was considering this myself...
Well its been proven that autos are faster. So in that regards I'm not building this car for the drag strip. This is a car for fun mainly. I will be building a full on sloppy drag car this winter I hope. Maybe earlier than that. Been looking for a nice sloppy vehicle on the side. That'll be big turbo auto dirty drag car.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
Yes, there's no loss of boost between shifts with a slush box. But there's a major loss in fun factor. I can say this though, if you shift fast enough...the loss in spool up is minimal. My opinion is, automatics do not belong in an f body that is designated as a fun street car. Different story, for a max effort race car.
Hey guys good news. I got anxious and was worried I didn't put the right oring on the pick up tube. Didn't pay much attention to it. Think I reused the 5.3 oring. Anyways stole battery from the yukon and jumped the start. Had 20ish lbs of oil pressure cranking. Took about a minute to get there but I'd say we're good to go. Should be ready for a start up this weekend. Then do fuel pumps and finish up drive shaft and everything else. Driving eta 3 weeks.