Questions on which engine for future turbo setup
03-21-2016, 10:59 PM
#1
Questions on which engine for future turbo setup Thank you for any suggestions.
Let me preface this by saying that I know very little on forced induction builds, I am just getting a rough idea on the main parts and then I will figure out the smaller details later.
I made a thread earlier this year regarding doing a turbo setup with my current NA 408. I was disappointed with the power I made and how it felt driving and it was my own fault for trying to save a bit and use less than adequate CNC heads from my original 5.7. Some said I could still use these LS6 heads with a turbo setup, some say trick flow 235.
Anyways, I do have a few options to build a turbo setup. I currently have 3 engine:
-35k mile stock 5.7 from my car
- unknown mileage 2005 LS2 from a c5 vette
-iron 6.0 bored .030 which is my current running NA 408
The heads that I have really are too small for my 408, yet some say that I can use them. But I was thinking that I could utilize them better on my LS2. I was thinking that I could keep the stock crank, and the stock rods (should be the good floater) and just maybe get aftermarket Pistons since the block will need honed.
The ls2 I am unsure with because it came from a vette that caught fire, and when they put the fire out, looks like water got in the cylinders and messed them up a bit, but I cannot feel it with my finger nail, so a hone may fix it. I know you cannot bore these aluminum block because some cylinders are never installed strait so you could hit a thin spot. I can visually see one cylinder liner that is closer to its neighbor than the other, but should be fine honed.
I was thinking of staying away from using my stroker crank, rods and Pistons since a lot of reading is saying that it pulls the piston out too far and the piston rocks and causes premature wear. The wiseco pistons are soposed to remedy this since the wrist pin is moved ( I upgraded them to tool steel), but others say that this is Meryl a bandaid. The 408 guts are all Callie's compstars and wiseco pistons.
I also have the option of my stock 5.7 block, and if I could use the ls2 floater rods and new pistons.
I would like to use my current heads, which is why I was thinking the 2 smaller blocks which they should be more compatible with. I would like 800-900 to the wheels since I run this on the street and go from a dig (safe abandoned industrial parkway for testing) and some roll races. I think anything more I wouldn't be able to go from a dig on the street.
I would probly have to change valves and springs. I see a lot of people making this type of power on stock blocks and 241/317 stock heads. I would like to make this reliable and think a non stroker may be best. I could even use the Callie's crank and rods in the ls2, but it would have the same piston wobble. I don't know, I have so many ideas and unsure what route to go. I cannot afford to spend a fortune, I already spent $13k on this current motor and want to use as much as I can where applicable.
I apologize for all of this rambling, I am kinda lost and just have so many ideas going through my head and need help figuring some things out.
Thank you for any help
-Mark jr.
Let me preface this by saying that I know very little on forced induction builds, I am just getting a rough idea on the main parts and then I will figure out the smaller details later.
I made a thread earlier this year regarding doing a turbo setup with my current NA 408. I was disappointed with the power I made and how it felt driving and it was my own fault for trying to save a bit and use less than adequate CNC heads from my original 5.7. Some said I could still use these LS6 heads with a turbo setup, some say trick flow 235.
Anyways, I do have a few options to build a turbo setup. I currently have 3 engine:
-35k mile stock 5.7 from my car
- unknown mileage 2005 LS2 from a c5 vette
-iron 6.0 bored .030 which is my current running NA 408
The heads that I have really are too small for my 408, yet some say that I can use them. But I was thinking that I could utilize them better on my LS2. I was thinking that I could keep the stock crank, and the stock rods (should be the good floater) and just maybe get aftermarket Pistons since the block will need honed.
The ls2 I am unsure with because it came from a vette that caught fire, and when they put the fire out, looks like water got in the cylinders and messed them up a bit, but I cannot feel it with my finger nail, so a hone may fix it. I know you cannot bore these aluminum block because some cylinders are never installed strait so you could hit a thin spot. I can visually see one cylinder liner that is closer to its neighbor than the other, but should be fine honed.
I was thinking of staying away from using my stroker crank, rods and Pistons since a lot of reading is saying that it pulls the piston out too far and the piston rocks and causes premature wear. The wiseco pistons are soposed to remedy this since the wrist pin is moved ( I upgraded them to tool steel), but others say that this is Meryl a bandaid. The 408 guts are all Callie's compstars and wiseco pistons.
I also have the option of my stock 5.7 block, and if I could use the ls2 floater rods and new pistons.
I would like to use my current heads, which is why I was thinking the 2 smaller blocks which they should be more compatible with. I would like 800-900 to the wheels since I run this on the street and go from a dig (safe abandoned industrial parkway for testing) and some roll races. I think anything more I wouldn't be able to go from a dig on the street.
I would probly have to change valves and springs. I see a lot of people making this type of power on stock blocks and 241/317 stock heads. I would like to make this reliable and think a non stroker may be best. I could even use the Callie's crank and rods in the ls2, but it would have the same piston wobble. I don't know, I have so many ideas and unsure what route to go. I cannot afford to spend a fortune, I already spent $13k on this current motor and want to use as much as I can where applicable.
I apologize for all of this rambling, I am kinda lost and just have so many ideas going through my head and need help figuring some things out.
Thank you for any help
-Mark jr.
03-21-2016, 11:04 PM
#2
Restricted User
99% of failed builds, parted out projects, or people losing interest is because they over complicate it.
You have 2 main options here.
1. Run the 408 with the current heads. They're not going to be 'too small'.
2. Sell the 408 and heads and go for a budget oriented stock long block with the stronger floating pin rods/pistons.
In reality, you can make the power you want either way. The 408 might be a bit more reliable around the 900whp range.
You have 2 main options here.
1. Run the 408 with the current heads. They're not going to be 'too small'.
2. Sell the 408 and heads and go for a budget oriented stock long block with the stronger floating pin rods/pistons.
In reality, you can make the power you want either way. The 408 might be a bit more reliable around the 900whp range.
03-22-2016, 12:28 AM
#3
What about due to it being a stroker, the piston being pulled from its bore farther than it should situation in the reliability equation?
That's what had me going towards the stockish ls2 6.0, but I know aluminum won't be as strong, but the weight factor also. Since its a 2005 ls2, it should be the good rods, I need to verify that with some pics, never looked it up since the block is not currently used.
I wouldn't sell the motors, wouldn't get much. Save them for another project. I have 2 more iron 6.0's in the future when I junk my work trucks years down the road.
Thank you
-Mark jr.
That's what had me going towards the stockish ls2 6.0, but I know aluminum won't be as strong, but the weight factor also. Since its a 2005 ls2, it should be the good rods, I need to verify that with some pics, never looked it up since the block is not currently used.
I wouldn't sell the motors, wouldn't get much. Save them for another project. I have 2 more iron 6.0's in the future when I junk my work trucks years down the road.
Thank you
-Mark jr.
03-22-2016, 07:14 AM
#4
Restricted User
The piston isn't going to be coming out of the bore any further with a turbo, so if you haven't had issues up until now, I wouldn't be too concerned with them. There are LOTS of 4" stroke turbo setups out there. One of the more famous ones here used a stock bore iron 6.0 and a 4" stroker setup and stock 317 heads, stock LS1 intake manifold and throttle body, and made over 1000whp and ran 7's.
Usually the 'don't go stroker' speech is for people considering dumping the money in one. Since you already have one, its too late for that, although for 13k I'd say you took it up the tailpipe pretty hard.
Usually the 'don't go stroker' speech is for people considering dumping the money in one. Since you already have one, its too late for that, although for 13k I'd say you took it up the tailpipe pretty hard.
03-22-2016, 10:45 AM
#5
I know it won't pull the piston out more, I was just thinking with the extra power than it may become a problem. Motor has around 1500 miles total.
Yeah the price went crazy even with the block being free, and me building it myself.
Had ls7 lifters, 70 miles later one started ticking, so upgraded to high rpm link bars ( not cheap). Aftermarket roller rockers were eating the trunion on a few which put metal flakes in the motor, so it got pulled apart and new bearings, crank polished and upgraded yella terras. Noticed that a few valve guides were a little suspect, so they all got replaced, valve job, new springs, surfaced. Put it together and stock reluctor wheel spun, so it came apart, new billet wheel welded on, rebalanced. Intake was already a used 90 that was cracked and fixed but the floor warped a bit. My mind sayed replace it so a new fast was added, headers were too small so it got stainless 1 7/8. Timing chain I thought had more slack than I wanted so it got a new double roller. New ati balancer. Dyno time etc.
There is more that I am not thinking of. It was a lot of things that just kept driving up the price like crazy and a lot of down time. It was not a fun experience. I went through a lot of head gaskets tearing the car apart so much, it just all added up.
Yeah the price went crazy even with the block being free, and me building it myself.
Had ls7 lifters, 70 miles later one started ticking, so upgraded to high rpm link bars ( not cheap). Aftermarket roller rockers were eating the trunion on a few which put metal flakes in the motor, so it got pulled apart and new bearings, crank polished and upgraded yella terras. Noticed that a few valve guides were a little suspect, so they all got replaced, valve job, new springs, surfaced. Put it together and stock reluctor wheel spun, so it came apart, new billet wheel welded on, rebalanced. Intake was already a used 90 that was cracked and fixed but the floor warped a bit. My mind sayed replace it so a new fast was added, headers were too small so it got stainless 1 7/8. Timing chain I thought had more slack than I wanted so it got a new double roller. New ati balancer. Dyno time etc.
There is more that I am not thinking of. It was a lot of things that just kept driving up the price like crazy and a lot of down time. It was not a fun experience. I went through a lot of head gaskets tearing the car apart so much, it just all added up.