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Great N/A - Now want boost

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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 08:07 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
A Procharged setup would be ideal for autocross.
No... no it wouldn't.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
No... no it wouldn't.
Why not?
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
On lower boost, meth or e85, and a good tune, yes.
lower boost? how low? and wouldn't that mean it would be ok on lower boost with a turbo?
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by shadowfirep
lower boost? how low? and wouldn't that mean it would be ok on lower boost with a turbo?
You're already learning eh! Blowers are really expensive and nothing beats the surge of power and top end of a turbo...
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by IronBlocked
You're already learning eh! Blowers are really expensive and nothing beats the surge of power and top end of a turbo...
That's what I've been thinking. Plus, since I already have great N/A power, the lag wouldn't feel as dead because I should still have a lot of power before the boost really hits
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 08:26 PM
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I would do as many have recommended, buy an $800 iron boost friendly longblock, freshen it up and boost it.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kingtal0n
I would do as many have recommended, buy an $800 iron boost friendly longblock, freshen it up and boost it.
Its starting to look like I may have to. Are there any other solutions which would keep the front end weight down a bit? Remember, I was as much cornering ability as I can get, even if I have to sacrifice raw power
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowfirep
Its starting to look like I may have to. Are there any other solutions which would keep the front end weight down a bit? Remember, I was as much cornering ability as I can get, even if I have to sacrifice raw power
For what reason? If this is a competition you do whatever it takes i.e. find a lighter chassis or strip yours and seam weld the unibody out of it, tube frame, etc..

If its just for fun and you intent to keep the chassis, worry less about the "front end weight" as you are putting it and put more effort/time into the suspension (if handling is a concern). You can get a heavy vehicle to perform well but it takes time/effort/patience in the suspension parts and seems to cost more than a light weight car, which can often get by reasonable well without effort. Adding a turbo and all that weight that goes with it (or any FI setup) is against the "light chassis" idea, if you arn't going to lighten it up by cutting it up/welding on it, and if being light and cornering is more important you run the aluminum N/A block and keep power minimal (where you are now). You literally said "sacrifice raw power" thats exactly where you are, just add nitrous to taste seasoning/flavor to the capacity of the engine.

Even if just a 50-75 progressive shot and a really cold intake manifold, plenty of chill in there and you will easily max the block capacity while maintaining the existing engine for a little while longer while you decide how you want to spend the next 10 or 20k. If you have that faith in the current engine.

Last edited by kingtal0n; Apr 1, 2016 at 10:06 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowfirep
Its starting to look like I may have to. Are there any other solutions which would keep the front end weight down a bit? Remember, I was as much cornering ability as I can get, even if I have to sacrifice raw power
Yes, use an l33 block it's an aluminum 5.3 with thick sleeves that will take just as much boost as any iron block.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kingtal0n
For what reason? If this is a competition you do whatever it takes i.e. find a lighter chassis or strip yours and seam weld the unibody out of it, tube frame, etc..

If its just for fun and you intent to keep the chassis, worry less about the "front end weight" as you are putting it and put more effort/time into the suspension. You can get a heavy vehicle to perform well but it takes more time/effort/patience in the suspension parts. Adding a turbo and all that weight that goes with it (or any FI setup) is against the "light chassis" idea, if you arn't going to lighten it up by cutting it up/welding on it, and if being light and cornering is more important you run the aluminum N/A block and keep power minimal (where you are now). You literally said "sacrifice raw power" thats exactly where you are, just add nitrous to taste seasoning/flavor to the capacity of the engine.
It is for fun and competition. If the right suspension components can make an iron block front end corner without too much understeer I will go that route as I want more power just for the feel when driving around on nice days. would my heads bolt to an LQ4?

As for using an L33, would those sleeves still handle boost if bored to 3.904 so I can re-use my current rotating assembly?
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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Just buy pistons it's only like 700 from ljms built for boost 5.3 pistons. That would be my ideal setup. Stock with be fine but I would go with.
L33 block
Forged pistons and rods
Stock crank
243 heads.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z
Just buy pistons it's only like 700 from ljms built for boost 5.3 pistons. That would be my ideal setup. Stock with be fine but I would go with.
L33 block
Forged pistons and rods
Stock crank
243 heads.
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but will my crank and rods need to be changed with an L33? I'd really love to re-use everything I can
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowfirep
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but will my crank and rods need to be changed with an L33? I'd really love to re-use everything I can
No problem, 6.125 on everything except the 4.8s
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 08:38 AM
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Why not stay n/a and do a bigger cubic inch aluminum setup? No matter what forced induction you go with, there will be a considerable amount of weight added to the front end of an already front heavy car. A lot of pro touring guys stay n/a for this reason as well as heat issues. It takes a lot of work to properly cool a forced induction car for use like that. Most in that community stay all motor and go with a well built engine combo or they go positive displacement blower and spend tons of time and money to sort the combo out. They never go turbo or centrifugal blower.

See this thread for a small bit of help:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/show...t=52628&page=2
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 1bdbrd
Why not stay n/a and do a bigger cubic inch aluminum setup? No matter what forced induction you go with, there will be a considerable amount of weight added to the front end of an already front heavy car. A lot of pro touring guys stay n/a for this reason as well as heat issues. It takes a lot of work to properly cool a forced induction car for use like that. Most in that community stay all motor and go with a well built engine combo or they go positive displacement blower and spend tons of time and money to sort the combo out. They never go turbo or centrifugal blower.

See this thread for a small bit of help:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/show...t=52628&page=2
It will see more street than track use. Plus I've always wanted an FI car lol
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowfirep
It will see more street than track use. Plus I've always wanted an FI car lol
Perfect reason then lol
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 07:18 PM
  #37  
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so I went a spoke with a very reputable turbo shop in town. I spoke with their main domestic car guy and he was saying he has put turbos on 30+ LS1's and hasn't heard of any of them blowing at the block yet. Is cracking the cylinder sleeves something that CAN happen with extended high RPM usage? Or is it something that almost always WILL happen? These mixed messages are killing me lol

Also, is there any problem going FI with the FAST LSXr intake?
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 08:33 PM
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It is a common problem with boost.
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by shadowfirep
so I went a spoke with a very reputable turbo shop in town. I spoke with their main domestic car guy and he was saying he has put turbos on 30+ LS1's and hasn't heard of any of them blowing at the block yet. Is cracking the cylinder sleeves something that CAN happen with extended high RPM usage? Or is it something that almost always WILL happen? These mixed messages are killing me lol

Also, is there any problem going FI with the FAST LSXr intake?
Do a little research. Cylinder 7 is notorious for cracking from the extra heat. Denmah worked on an old ventura that used an LS1 block and 4.8 crank/rods. They ran a bit too much boost and the block itself ended up splitting from what I remember. If I remember right, this was mostly a year-specific issue, they fixed it when they updated the blocks around the LS6 era. So, you may be safe.

The 5.3 aluminum blocks seem to be able to take a real beating. There are lots of them out there pushing 1000 whp. If you want to stay aluminum, they are your best bet.
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 10:35 PM
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You could get an aluminum 5.3 block and reuse everything you have now, with the exception of your pistons. You would need new pistons and to have you rotating assembly balanced again. Your heads and cam and, well, everything, would work just fine.

You would want to use the 5.3's smaller bore to maintain the thicker cylinder sleeves. If you bore out the 5.3 sleeves to 3.9", then you are right back where you started with thin *** sleeves. Keeping it small bore gives you more "meat" around the cylinder for strength.

Or, just retune your spring and bar package to use an iron block. The weight can be compensated for when tuning the suspension.
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